ray: Somebody help please! I am removing panels to get back to replace a battery. When I get to the bottom screws on the top side panel I have no tool that fits. Not in my Spyder tool kit or anything else I have. What do I use? If I have to buy a tool, what do I call that screw head. Never seen one like it:hun:
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Removing lower screws top side panel - no tool
- Thread starter jsteffey
- Start date
ray: Somebody help please! I am removing panels to get back to replace a battery. When I get to the bottom screws on the top side panel I have no tool that fits. Not in my Spyder tool kit or anything else I have. What do I use? If I have to buy a tool, what do I call that screw head. Never seen one like it:hun:
Bob Denman
New member
YOur owner's manual has some pretty clear instructions for all of the panel removal chores...
Read, re-read, re-re-read them before picking up any tools, and you'll be fine! :thumbup:
Read, re-read, re-re-read them before picking up any tools, and you'll be fine! :thumbup:
Bob Denman
New member
Here's another thread on this topic.. perhaps it'll help you out! :thumbup:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...emoving-the-Battery&highlight=battery+removal
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...emoving-the-Battery&highlight=battery+removal
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Those screws hold pins which slip into grommets in the panel below. They are not to be removed...that is whyt they are security screws. After all the normal torx screws for that panel are removed, pul the panel sideways, away from the Spyder. The four grommets should pop loose. If the panel resists, you missed some screws.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
...or you could just purchase the correct tool if you had to replace one. They are there for a reason. Modifying them so you can remove them with a standard Torx is not advisable.
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: :lecturef_smilie: The right tool; for the right job!
Bob Ledford
New member
Bob Ledford
New member
It would be nice if
I think it would be nice if every manufacturer would publish a listing of every tool size used to manufacture their products with. It would sell a whole lot more tools but the DIYers of the world would screw up less stuff..... Especially when they use special fasteners in construction.
I think it would be nice if every manufacturer would publish a listing of every tool size used to manufacture their products with. It would sell a whole lot more tools but the DIYers of the world would screw up less stuff..... Especially when they use special fasteners in construction.
The Infamous Crooked Pins
:agree:
These are the 'infamous' crooked pins. Unlike most of the other panel retaining pins these are not straight but are curved and have a critical orientation. They are a little harder to pull out than the others.
The real challenge comes when re-installing as they are, after all, not straight so alignment is critical. It is very easy to push the retaining grommets on the inside body skins through into the engine cavity if you do not get it right.
pps: I lost one of mine (actually both but one dropped through to the garage floor) and had to replace them. The other went to one of the many Spyder Never Never Lands :banghead:
I now keep a couple of spares around. I consider them grommets but BRP calls them oval washers - go figure. They are not expensive. I think they come in packs of 4 for around $10. The part number is 705000321. Your dealer probably will not have them in stock. Have to order them.
When replacing panels it is easier if you lube the grommets. Be careful not to use something that stays slick like oil or silicone. I use a 'rubber lubricant' that Shark makes for their helmets to keep the rubber conditioned. It is slick for a while and then gets absorbed.
You might go to a tire store and beg them for an ounce or two of the lubricant they use on the beads when mounting tires. Again it only stays slick for a while.
Last resort some fairly soapy water ( we used to use that back in the day LOL) which tends to dry out after a while.
In any case there needs to be friction between the pin and the grommet - er- er I mean oval washer so it can do its job.
:agree:
These are the 'infamous' crooked pins. Unlike most of the other panel retaining pins these are not straight but are curved and have a critical orientation. They are a little harder to pull out than the others.
The real challenge comes when re-installing as they are, after all, not straight so alignment is critical. It is very easy to push the retaining grommets on the inside body skins through into the engine cavity if you do not get it right.
pps: I lost one of mine (actually both but one dropped through to the garage floor) and had to replace them. The other went to one of the many Spyder Never Never Lands :banghead:I now keep a couple of spares around. I consider them grommets but BRP calls them oval washers - go figure. They are not expensive. I think they come in packs of 4 for around $10. The part number is 705000321. Your dealer probably will not have them in stock. Have to order them.
When replacing panels it is easier if you lube the grommets. Be careful not to use something that stays slick like oil or silicone. I use a 'rubber lubricant' that Shark makes for their helmets to keep the rubber conditioned. It is slick for a while and then gets absorbed.
You might go to a tire store and beg them for an ounce or two of the lubricant they use on the beads when mounting tires. Again it only stays slick for a while.
Last resort some fairly soapy water ( we used to use that back in the day LOL) which tends to dry out after a while.
In any case there needs to be friction between the pin and the grommet - er- er I mean oval washer so it can do its job.
Last edited:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
:agree:
These are the 'infamous' crooked pins. Unlike most of the other panel retaining pins these are not straight but are curved and have a critical orientation. They are a little harder to pull out than the others.
The real challenge comes when re-installing as they are, after all, not straight so alignment is critical. It is very easy to push the retaining grommets on the inside body skins through into the engine cavity if you do not get it right.
I now keep a couple of spares around. I consider them grommets but BRP calls them oval washers - go figure. They are not expensive. I think they come in packs of 4 for around $10. The part number is 705000321. Your dealer probably will not have them in stock. Have to order them.
When replacing panels it is easier if you lube the grommets. Be careful not to use something that stays slick like oil or silicone. I use a 'rubber lubricant' that Shark makes for their helmets to keep the rubber conditioned. It is slick for a while and then gets absorbed.
You might go to a tire store and beg them for an ounce or two of the lubricant they use on the beads when mounting tires. Again it only stays slick for a while.
Last resort some fairly soapy water ( we used to use that back in the day LOL) which tends to dry out after a while.
In any case there needs to be friction between the pin and the grommet - er- er I mean oval washer so it can do its job.
Thanks for picking up where I left off, and filling in the blanks. Good advice can never be shared too often. BTW, I just use spit to lubricate the grommets and pins.
johnwinslow
New member
by now you would think that you knew everything there is to know about the security head screws, but you don't
inside of the panel are some indicators that allow you to orient those curved pins so panel replacement will be easier
go to a pool supply store and get some silicon grease for the hole in the grommets
glue with pliobond, the grommet into the frame, this will allow it to move but not fall out
Merry Christmas everyone:joke:
inside of the panel are some indicators that allow you to orient those curved pins so panel replacement will be easier
go to a pool supply store and get some silicon grease for the hole in the grommets
glue with pliobond, the grommet into the frame, this will allow it to move but not fall out
Merry Christmas everyone:joke:
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