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Remove engine ecu

wmh9680

New member
Good afternoon, what exactly do I have to do to remove my enginge ecu? Just the panel or the mirror too?

Snows starting to melt here in chicagoland after getting blasted. Can't wait. Thanks Mike
 
On my F3-S the ECU is behind the left side body panel. It is mounted with 3 10mm bolts that have locktite (Grrr) can be a bit fussy to get to the top and forward bolts. The top has to be done with a wrench vs socket. The two wiring loom connectors are a bit tricky to disconnect. You have to push in at one edge of the base of the connector then the latch rotates and you must rotate it all the way down until you hear it click. Very important! Otherwise you will not get them off.
 
It's behind the L side panel, the one that says "Rotax" on it. Engine off. Remove the two connectors at the bottom and the three Torx bolts holding ECM to frame.
 
:agree:The 2014's & newer are fairly easy & might take as little as 10 minutes to remove! Easy as!! For 2012's & older, it's not much more difficult... :thumbup:

However, if you've got a 2013 RT that's a whole different ball game!! Those are fairly diffucult to get at, let alone remove, cos their ECU is sandwiched up front underneath the remote battery terminals & behind the front cross member that the frunk hangs off but in front of the engine & all the air intake ducting!! And those 10mm screws are aimed back away from where you can get at them... plus they are about 25 mm long & on 2 of them the 'extraction space' with everything else remaining in place is only about 15-18mm!! Pulling the air inlet trunking from in front of the engine out entirely & lifting the headlight assy makes it a lot easier to get the ECU out, but doing that does take some fiddling & time & makes for a whole lot of frustration...... :mad:
 
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It's behind the L side panel, the one that says "Rotax" on it. Engine off. Remove the two connectors at the bottom and the three Torx bolts holding ECM to frame.[/QUOTE

I see the small panel with Rotex on it but I dn see any screws on it. I'm attaching 2 pics, hopefully the right ones. I have foot pegs, does it matter.
 

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The left panel with CanAm and Rotax on it just pulls off. There are no screws or bolts holding it on. You will find the ecu behind it.
 
The left panel with CanAm and Rotax on it just pulls off. There are no screws or bolts holding it on. You will find the ecu behind it.

Thanks, that's what I thought and wanted to hear, I just dn want to break anything and I've heard the mirror can be tricky.

Any idea what the rev limit is, I'm going to have it flashed and that's one of the questions. Thanks, Mike
 
When you remove the L side panel look at the small plastic clip on the backside of the top of the panel. When you reinstall the panel be absolutely certain you get it snapped into place on the front body panel. If you don't get snapped in place you can lose the whole side panel at a cost of about $230.
 
When you remove the L side panel look at the small plastic clip on the backside of the top of the panel. When you reinstall the panel be absolutely certain you get it snapped into place on the front body panel. If you don't get snapped in place you can lose the whole side panel at a cost of about $230.
Thanks for the tip. Mike
 
Well I got it on and filled her up with 93 octane and took her for a short ride and did not notice much difference-----until I realized the rear wheel was spinning and I got up to 60 real quick and the throttle response is much quicker. Can't wait til I can really take her out for a long ride. Anyone know what to expect mpg wise? Also I thought I read that I might get better traction by lowering the rear psi. Thanks, Mike
 
I'll be interested to hear what your impressions are of this mod after you get a few more miles on it.

Rick H.

I just noticed you did this back in April! So how has it been going?
 
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