My 2011 RT's original battery went dead at 20K miles. The bike had been making "popping" noises prior to the dead battery. Took it to the shop and they replaced the battery with a new one from China. Did some other maintenance at the same time. After 2 weeks, the new battery was dead. All was tested and charged and sent me home. One week later, dead battery again. This time the shop replaced the new battery with another new battery. After 5 days, the newest new battery is dead again. The shop has tested for electrical drain but everything says ok. I am frustrated beyond belief !! Is my shop that incompetent to not find the problem. Is the LEMON law available after 5 years? I have too much invested in this bike to get rid of it, but I am to that point.
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Recurring dead battery
- Thread starter spydergal
- Start date
blitzkreig
New member
Why don't you try a different battery other than one describe as "from China". Maybe even a whole new technology. Try a non-flooded battery like a "odessy". You may pay several times the price of the battery "from China" but it holds a charge like nothing else ...
SPYD3R
Active member
SAME THING
SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME ON MY 2015 F3-S.....
BATTERY KEPT DYING... BROUGHT HER IN TO THE SHOP AND WAS CHARGED $140 FOR A NEW BATTERY WHICH IS NOT COVERED...
RODE OFF.... NEXT COULD DAYS, BATTERY DIES AGAIN.... BROUGHT HER BACK.... THEY REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR.... RODE OFF.... ACTUALLY, WAS RODE OFF TO NOVA SCOTIA FROM SOUTH CAROLINA, AND BATTERY KEPT DYING... MADE IT TO MASSACHUSETTS AND TURNED AROUND AND LIMPED HOME... LUCKILY MY PARTNER HAD ONE OF THE TINY-BATTERY-BOOSTERS.... BROUGHT IT BACK TO THE SHOP.... NEW SERVICE MANAGER - REALLY GOOD KID - CHECKED IT OUT AND INSTALLED A "GROUNDING CABLE" BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE FRAME - NOW WHY WASN'T THERE ONE THERE FROM THE FACTORY, AND IF NOT, WHY DID THIS PROBLEM START HAPPENING ONLY AFTER 24,000 MILES AND 16 MONTHS.... I STILL HAVEN'T FIGURED THIS ONE OUT YET....
WELL, IT'S BEEN 3 WEEKS, AND NO MORE ISSUES.... HOPEFULLY THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED.... HAVE YOUR DEALER CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOUR ALTERNATOR IS GROUNDED AND THE BATTERY IS RECEIVING JUICE FROM IT...
GOOD LUCK....
SPYD3R
SoCar
SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME ON MY 2015 F3-S.....
BATTERY KEPT DYING... BROUGHT HER IN TO THE SHOP AND WAS CHARGED $140 FOR A NEW BATTERY WHICH IS NOT COVERED...
RODE OFF.... NEXT COULD DAYS, BATTERY DIES AGAIN.... BROUGHT HER BACK.... THEY REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR.... RODE OFF.... ACTUALLY, WAS RODE OFF TO NOVA SCOTIA FROM SOUTH CAROLINA, AND BATTERY KEPT DYING... MADE IT TO MASSACHUSETTS AND TURNED AROUND AND LIMPED HOME... LUCKILY MY PARTNER HAD ONE OF THE TINY-BATTERY-BOOSTERS.... BROUGHT IT BACK TO THE SHOP.... NEW SERVICE MANAGER - REALLY GOOD KID - CHECKED IT OUT AND INSTALLED A "GROUNDING CABLE" BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE FRAME - NOW WHY WASN'T THERE ONE THERE FROM THE FACTORY, AND IF NOT, WHY DID THIS PROBLEM START HAPPENING ONLY AFTER 24,000 MILES AND 16 MONTHS.... I STILL HAVEN'T FIGURED THIS ONE OUT YET....
WELL, IT'S BEEN 3 WEEKS, AND NO MORE ISSUES.... HOPEFULLY THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED.... HAVE YOUR DEALER CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOUR ALTERNATOR IS GROUNDED AND THE BATTERY IS RECEIVING JUICE FROM IT...
GOOD LUCK....
SPYD3R
SoCar
billybovine
Active member
So the first changed out after 5 years. It could have been bad. But a professional shop should have charged and load tested the battery before declaring it good or bad. Did they? So they installed new battery. One from china so you say. The original equipment is from Yuasa and that is what they should have but back in unless you agree to or demanded a different then original battery. It went dead. Remember a dead battery does not mean it is bad. Some testing done. I wonder what they tested for. Another battery installed. Was the replacement battery charged and load tested? It is not uncommon for a new battery to go bad right away. So maybe it was bad. Now the third battery has gone dead. Well you are not going to get 2 new bad batteries in a row and quite likely your original was good too.
Your Spyder needs to be tested and inspected properly. Are all the connections tight and free from corrosion including the main ground points. I think there are 3 ground points on yours. System voltage checks, running and not running. Depending on those results. The 3 magneto legs need to tested to ground to make sure they are not shorted. The voltage regulator/rectifier needs to tested. Etc.
Your Spyder needs to be tested and inspected properly. Are all the connections tight and free from corrosion including the main ground points. I think there are 3 ground points on yours. System voltage checks, running and not running. Depending on those results. The 3 magneto legs need to tested to ground to make sure they are not shorted. The voltage regulator/rectifier needs to tested. Etc.
Hi Blitz
The CanAm service department replaced it with a Yuasa battery which I'm told is factory recommended. I feel the original battery was probably ok and the new ones installed ok also. There must be a power drain coming from somewhere even though they have put it thru every test.
Hey Billubovine,,
The Can Am dealer did charge and load tested both new batteries. At the time everything checked out ok. Get it home and within a few days, it's dead again. I have made a list of things to check from these postings and see if they can get to the root of the problem. Thanks,
Motorcycledave
Active member
Old Battery
With all of the electronics on your bike
I wouldn't plan on a battery lasting more than two years
The mileage on your bike has nothing to do with battery life.
I have owned five Gold Wings and never had a battery
last more than a year and a half on any of them
your CanAm has more electronics the most others
they use up a lot of power and shortens your battery life
if you don't already have one go buy a battery tender and
plug it in every time you park it in your Garage.
With all of the electronics on your bike
I wouldn't plan on a battery lasting more than two years
The mileage on your bike has nothing to do with battery life.
I have owned five Gold Wings and never had a battery
last more than a year and a half on any of them
your CanAm has more electronics the most others
they use up a lot of power and shortens your battery life
if you don't already have one go buy a battery tender and
plug it in every time you park it in your Garage.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
WHO IS LOOKING AT YOUR SPYDER ---- WHAT DEALER
This may be problem #1............ Spyders or any other vehicle that uses a battery doesn't just decide to start destroying them .....Their is something wrong in the system, and you need to find someone who is competent. It's way less expensive in the long run .... jmho........Mike :thumbup:
This may be problem #1............ Spyders or any other vehicle that uses a battery doesn't just decide to start destroying them .....Their is something wrong in the system, and you need to find someone who is competent. It's way less expensive in the long run .... jmho........Mike :thumbup:
Pandy
Member
Did you ever have the radio module problem? I have a 2011 RT as well, and some time ago, there was a problem with the radio modules killing batteries. After mine was replaced, no more battery troubles except for normal replacement as mentioned by previous posters. Also, I second the idea of a thorough examination of all primary electrical leads w/r to grounding.
Patrick
Patrick
Gray Ghost
New member
I would have to respectfully disagree with your conclusions on battery life. I have, and have known others (even GW riders), had batteries go well past two years. And the amount of electronics, unless you are talking about an inordinate amount of farkles, on the Can-Am are not an issue. As long as the system has a charging system big enough to power the electronics and also charge the battery it will not wear the battery out any faster than any other bike. And these systems do put out enough power as designed to cover all those issues.
What will kill batteries are things like improper original set up, failure to ensure that they are being ridden long enough to replenish the starting draw, or letting it set so long that the regular key off draw depletes the charge, etc.
When you first get a battery - follow the manufacturers instructions, especially if you have to add the acid. Even if you get a battery that was pre-charged by a dealer or factory, it is still a good idea to put it on a charger and ensure that it is at 100% before putting it in the bike and hitting the start button.
Not bad batteries
Way back in time I had the same problem , going thru batteries . Dealer needs to contact BRP and find how to test the regulator / rectifier .Had mine gone over by a BRP tech in Maggie Valley at a rally and he's the one that found the problem. Replaced mine and have not had problem one since then and mine is never on a battery tender .For some egotistical reason dealers don't think they need BRP help . Some don't but most do need it , especially on a problem like this .Make them start a case file .Willing to bet the problem is rectified quickly if they do .1
Way back in time I had the same problem , going thru batteries . Dealer needs to contact BRP and find how to test the regulator / rectifier .Had mine gone over by a BRP tech in Maggie Valley at a rally and he's the one that found the problem. Replaced mine and have not had problem one since then and mine is never on a battery tender .For some egotistical reason dealers don't think they need BRP help . Some don't but most do need it , especially on a problem like this .Make them start a case file .Willing to bet the problem is rectified quickly if they do .1
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