Recommend Floorboards for a 2016 F3-T?

[newbert]

I'm considering getting a set of floorboards for my 2016 F3-T. I currently have the stock pegs. I know that there are a number of sources, so I'd appreciate some recommendations, preferably with links.

My main priorities (in no particular order) are:

1. Easy to install by a limited experience DIY'er. IOW, involves no drilling and just basic tools. Instructional video of installation would help a lot.

2. Allows for maximum flexibility in foot placement - forward/back after installed and perhaps even up/down a bit (ie - placement when installing)?

3. Maximizes ease for me getting on the Spyder. I have trouble getting my leg over the seat right now. (I know, I know, I'm gettin' old!)

4. And, of course, maximize bang for the buck. (I don't have a set budget, buut appreciate good value.)

Thanks!

 

[Peteoz]

Bert,

Lamont’s R.I.P. boards fit the first 3 points. Maximising bang for buck was not a consideration for me, as the RIP boards met every criteria I had, so I bought them. This does NOT necessarily mean they are expensive, just that I had no need to do any sums as nothing else worked so well.

1. Easy to install by a limited experience DIY'er. IOW, involves no drilling and just basic tools. Instructional video of installation would help a lot.
Yep....easy when I did it, replacing BRP boards, and Lamont has made it even easier now. He also has an install video.

2. Allows for maximum flexibility in foot placement - forward/back after installed and perhaps even up/down a bit (ie - placement when installing)?
Yep....these are looong boards and certainly let you move your feet around. You can also adjust very slightly up/down at rear, plus you can add Lamont’s new highway pegs that bolt to the boards for even more flexibilty (and if finances allow)

3. Maximizes ease for me getting on the Spyder. I have trouble getting my leg over the seat right now. (I know, I know, I'm gettin' old!)
Yep......these boards are long enough that the F3 is easy to mount with your foot toward the rear of the board (no need to have a “third peg”.

4. And, of course, maximize bang for the buck. (I don't have a set budget, buut appreciate good value.)
This is sooooooo subjective. I would have paid more for these boards (don’t tell Lamont), because they did exactly what I wanted.



Pete

 

[TexasZ]

Listen to Pete, he is absolutely correct about the RIP boards and here is the link to the boards and video.
Number 2 and 3 position... http://www.lamonstergarage.com/lamonster-rip-boards-2-or-3-with-frame-cap-option/
Number 4 and 5 position... http://www.lamonstergarage.com/lamonster-rip-boards-4-or-5-with-frame-cap-option/
They may seem pricey at first glance but for all you get and for all they do, as well as the function and high quality, they are a bargain at that price.

 

[AeroPilot]

+1 on Lamonts R.I.P. boards

Put them on the wifes F3T and she is well pleased. The mid position on the brake pedal was good for her even with her 5-4 height, and I can enjoy a spin on her bike in perfect comfort as well.

 

[blacklightning]

I suggest checking out the web boards. That would be my choice if I purchased a set. I went the cheap route and purchased some 1/4" thick aluminum and made my own. I have about $50 in them.

 

[bushrat]

hey Bert

I see we're still experiencing "similar bikes, similar issues" (lol)...

I already have floorboards with my new F3L; I think you'll find changing over from pegs to boards will be a welcome one and will help you deal with your hip issues. Even with my shorter OEM BRP boards (mine are now in Position 4) there is a pretty good range of movement or leg extension position, but Lamonster's longer boards or Seal boards would give you even a lot more yet. The BRP boards don't allow for any up/down variation, which I wish was possible, mostly because I find the brake pedal a tad high (but there are ways to deal with that too, as discussed in other threads here if you look). As for ease of getting your leg over the seat when mounting/dismounting, I have found that it helps me to use the passenger boards as my first step when getting on. This places my butt well above my seat, and means I don't need to lift my far-side leg as high to clear; then I step down and forward into the driver seat. Simply reverse the procedure when dismounting - - backwards and upwards first to the passenger level; then over and down to the ground. When my hips/legs get tired and/or my knees start to lock up, I sometimes find getting my off-side leg to clear the seat back or rear arm rests is an issue - the higher, two-step entry (getting higher further back before moving down and forward into my driver seat, or reverse) works more easily. It ain't always pretty, but the procedure gets my butt into and out of the saddle and allows me to ryde. And besides, I'm too old to worry about being beautiful; just practical. Cheers, Roger.

 

[newbert]

I see we're still experiencing "similar bikes, similar issues" (lol)...

I already have floorboards with my new F3L; I think you'll find changing over from pegs to boards will be a welcome one and will help you deal with your hip issues. Even with my shorter OEM BRP boards (mine are now in Position 4) there is a pretty good range of movement or leg extension position, but Lamonster's longer boards or Seal boards would give you even a lot more yet. The BRP boards don't allow for any up/down variation, which I wish was possible, mostly because I find the brake pedal a tad high (but there are ways to deal with that too, as discussed in other threads here if you look). As for ease of getting your leg over the seat when mounting/dismounting, I have found that it helps me to use the passenger boards as my first step when getting on. This places my butt well above my seat, and means I don't need to lift my far-side leg as high to clear; then I step down and forward into the driver seat. Simply reverse the procedure when dismounting - - backwards and upwards first to the passenger level; then over and down to the ground. When my hips/legs get tired and/or my knees start to lock up, I sometimes find getting my off-side leg to clear the seat back or rear arm rests is an issue - the higher, two-step entry (getting higher further back before moving down and forward into my driver seat, or reverse) works more easily. It ain't always pretty, but the procedure gets my butt into and out of the saddle and allows me to ryde. And besides, I'm too old to worry about being beautiful; just practical. Cheers, Roger.

Hi Roger. I hope you're doing well. - Yeah, I'm still tinkering with comfort. I just placed an order with Russell for a Daylong seat, but they won't be able to clear a production date until January. Then I saw that the Seal floorboards are on sale right now, which got me thinking about floorboards, so I started this thread.

Right now, I mount the Spyder similar to you (only worse). I use the passenger peg to get my butt onto the passenger seat. Then I swing my outside leg forward (over the tank). Hey - you do what you gotta do! That works, but I'd rather get to doing it the "conventional" way because this method (and yours) doesn't allow for the use of a driver backrest which I'm also interested in.

Thanks for the response.

 

[MHATTER]

Floorboards

I concur with previous replies. My wife and I added a pair of the first iteration of the R.I.P. boards as the first farkle to each of our Spyders. They are rock solid. We couldn’t be happier.
As a bonus, you will deal with a great company. When I ordered two sets, they gave me a call to make sure it wasn’t a mistake.

 

[Bill_VA]

The RIP boards look like a great alternative, but the sharp corners seem to be a shin hazard. Any chance of them making a rounded version?

 

[Peteoz]

The RIP boards look like a great alternative, but the sharp corners seem to be a shin hazard. Any chance of them making a rounded version?

That’s a call for Lamont, Bill, but since I have not damaged (or even come close to damaging) a shin on them in 12 months, while mounting the F3 from both sides due to a disintegrating hip, plus the lack of any reported shin damage, I don’t know that it would be a viable financial alternative for Lamont to pursue.

Pete

 

[Capt. Bob]

Like others, aging hips can present problems for pegs instead of floorboards. 7 weeks ago, I had a left total hip replacement with the surgeon using an Anterior Approach (front of the leg with only a 4.5" incision for a minimally invasive procedure) which allowed me to mount my F3S Spyder with replacement factory rider floor boards and a backrest after about 5 weeks post-op. I place my right foot on the rear peg, gently lifting my newly operated on left leg over the seat while my left hand is on the backrest and my right hand is on the handlebar and then move my left hand to the handlebar as I slide forward and comfortably move my feet to the rider floorboards. I then reverse the order and comfortably step off the Spyder on the right side while gently placing my left foot down on the ground followed by my non-operated on right hip/leg. Like Peteroz pointed out, I am not too concerned about how I look and the procedure appears to be safe and easy for me to perform although YMMV.