Rear wheel

[woodchuck]

Hopefully someone out there in :spyder2: land can help me. What is the size of the nut that is on the rear axle? I have to remove my rear wheel and would rather do it the right way.
Thank you in advance.

 

[Texmac1011]

36 mm, I believe. 1 wrench and 1 socket would work best, but I used 2 wrenches.

 

[Texmac1011]

Assuming you have an RS, these instructions by AtaDude worked real well for me:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Remove the four 13mm hex head bolts from the rear brake caliper and tie the caliper up out of the way.

2. Using a 36mm socket on the right and another 36mm wrench on the left, loosen the axle nut on the right.

3. Loosen the two (2) belt adjustment Allen-head screws by about five to seven full turns. Keep track of how many turns... will use later to re-install.

4. If you're running a stock rear fender, remove the four fender Torx bolts and the fender itself.

5. Now, complete the loosening and removal of the axle nut in (2) above.

6. Jack the bike up just enough to remove the rear tire from the ground. Remove the axle to the left... if needed, use a Phillips screwdriver or punch to push the axle out.

7. Slip the drive belt off of the rear sprocket to the left. If you didn't loosen the adjusters in (3) above, do it now or you won't be able to remove the belt.

8. Remove the wheel/tire by rolling straight back between the rear fender supports.

9. If needed, remove the rear sprocket from the wheel by pulling straight out. A jiggle or three might be needed in alternating spots around the sprocket. It's a force-fit between rubber dampeners in the wheel hub.

Before reassembling in reverse order, check the bearings on both sides of the wheel and the drive sprocket with your finders... they should turn easily with no binding or "clicks".

Also check to make sure that the o-ring on the hub is intact and lubricated before you slide the belt drive back on. Go slow and "wiggle it" to ensure that you don't break the o-ring (I did, once).

That's it!

 

[ataDude]

Assuming you have an RS, these instructions by AtaDude worked real well for me:...

Dang. It's been so long I don't even remember writing that. :yikes:

.

 

[Texmac1011]

HeHe. I have it copied and pasted in my "How To" Spyder file..........

 

[woodchuck]

Assuming you have an RS, these instructions by AtaDude worked real well for me:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Remove the four 13mm hex head bolts from the rear brake caliper and tie the caliper up out of the way.

2. Using a 36mm socket on the right and another 36mm wrench on the left, loosen the axle nut on the right.

3. Loosen the two (2) belt adjustment Allen-head screws by about five to seven full turns. Keep track of how many turns... will use later to re-install.

4. If you're running a stock rear fender, remove the four fender Torx bolts and the fender itself.

5. Now, complete the loosening and removal of the axle nut in (2) above.

6. Jack the bike up just enough to remove the rear tire from the ground. Remove the axle to the left... if needed, use a Phillips screwdriver or punch to push the axle out.

7. Slip the drive belt off of the rear sprocket to the left. If you didn't loosen the adjusters in (3) above, do it now or you won't be able to remove the belt.

8. Remove the wheel/tire by rolling straight back between the rear fender supports.

9. If needed, remove the rear sprocket from the wheel by pulling straight out. A jiggle or three might be needed in alternating spots around the sprocket. It's a force-fit between rubber dampeners in the wheel hub.

Before reassembling in reverse order, check the bearings on both sides of the wheel and the drive sprocket with your finders... they should turn easily with no binding or "clicks".

Also check to make sure that the o-ring on the hub is intact and lubricated before you slide the belt drive back on. Go slow and "wiggle it" to ensure that you don't break the o-ring (I did, once).

That's it!

Thanks for the info. Will try tomorow. hyea::clap::yes:

 

[retread]

Instead of loosening the adjustment bolts, if you are able, take the bolt out of the bottom attachment point on the rear shock, jack the Spyder up high enough to let the belt get slack, and remove the rear wheel. this way, you won't have to readjust the belt when you put it back together.

john

 

[SpyderByter]

I dont know if you have an Auto Zone there, but I borrowed that socket from them.

 

[lamarguy]

Instead of loosening the adjustment bolts, if you are able, take the bolt out of the bottom attachment point on the rear shock, jack the Spyder up high enough to let the belt get slack, and remove the rear wheel. this way, you won't have to readjust the belt when you put it back together.

:agree:

Yup, I found those same instructions. Appears to be much easier that removing the fender, tensioning the belt, etc.