I copied these instructions from an earlier post that I can't find at the moment. They worked great for me. I added Step 1A and made a note at the beginning of Step 3. All the credit goes to the original poster!
Changing Rear Tire1. Remove the four 13mm hex head bolts from the rear brake caliper and tie the caliper up out of the way.
1A. Remove the lower bolt from the rear shock.
2. Using a 36mm socket on the right and another 36mm wrench on the left, loosen the axle nut on the right.
3. DON'T DO THIS STEP AND BELT TENSION WILL BE GOOD. I STILL HAD THE DEALER CHECK MINE AFTER AND IT WAS TOO TIGHT. Loosen the two (2) belt adjustment Allen-head screws by about five to seven full turns. Keep track of how many turns... will use later to re-install. MAY NOT NEED THIS STEP4. If you're running a stock rear fender, remove the four fender Torx bolts and the fender itself.5. Now, complete the loosening and removal of the axle nut in (2) above.6. Jack the bike up just enough to remove the rear tire from the ground. Remove the axle to the leftif needed, use a Phillips screwdriver or punch to push the axle out.7. Slip the drive belt off of the rear sprocket to the left. If you didn't loosen the adjusters in (3) above,do it now or you won't be able to remove the belt.8. Remove the wheel/tire by rolling straight back between the rear fender supports.9. If needed, remove the rear sprocket from the wheel by pulling straight out. A jiggle or three might beneeded in alternating spots around the sprocket. It's a force-fit between rubber dampeners in the wheel hub.Before reassembling in reverse order, check the bearings on both sides of the wheel and thedrive sprocket with your finders... they should turn easily with no binding or "clicks".Also check to make sure that the o-ring on the hub is intact and lubricated before you slide the beltdrive back on. Go slow and "wiggle it" to ensure that you don't break the o-ring (I did, once).
