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Rear Wheel Installation Tip

daz

New member
I found that this helped on a 2011 RT. Do not loosen the axle adjusting screws and you won't have to worry about readjusting belt tension or alignment. After you thread the belt back on the pulley use a ratchet strap through the wheel and around the shock mount to pull the wheel forcefully forward. Then tighten the axle nut.

To push the rubber cush drive back into place use baby powder on the rubber.

There is no need to loosen the lower shock bolt and no need to remove the stock upper shock guard. The motorcycle shop was able to spin balance the wheel to perfect with one oz. of weight. Hope this helps someone.
 
Not sure why you would loosen the upper shock guard. If you can get the belt off without taking out the lower shock bolt that’s great. Nice idea with the ratchet strap. I was using duct tape to keep adjusters tight in the swing arm. Does the air ride rod need to be disconnected?
 
When I changed our back tire, I used a white paint stick to match mark the axle adjusters, then backed them off four full turns. When I was putting it back on, I tightened them four full turns til the match marks were perfectly aligned. My belt tracked perfectly, as well.
 
There is no need to move the adjusters AT ALL when removing the rear wheel. Take the lower shock bolt out and the swing arm drops far enough that the belt goes slack, you just slide it off and then remove the axle shaft. When you put it back together, the adjustment is right back where it was.
 
Another good option Daz, but I much prefer JC’s method. I found removing the bottom shock bolt, easily slipping the belt off, removing the wheel, and then easily slipping the belt back on and rebolting the shock a very simple option, with no adjuster movement whatsoever required.

Pete
 
Right O, Tape adjuster end caps to swing arm, air ride rod removed first (for Spyders with one), then shock bottom bolt, then brake caliper,(watch the shims) then lift and belt slides off, axle slides out, Presto Chango
 
Right O, Tape adjuster end caps to swing arm, air ride rod removed first (for Spyders with one), then shock bottom bolt, then brake caliper,(watch the shims) then lift and belt slides off, axle slides out, Presto Chango

Yeah David, but don’t forget to remove the nuts from the axle before you try to slide it out. :D:D:D

Pete
 
Not sure why you would loosen the upper shock guard. If you can get the belt off without taking out the lower shock bolt that’s great. Nice idea with the ratchet strap. I was using duct tape to keep adjusters tight in the swing arm. Does the air ride rod need to be disconnected?

No air ride on this model. You are correct about NOT taking the shock bolt out. Slowly turn the wheel by hand and work the belt off. It goes on just as easy.
 
I never had to remove the lower shock bolt. I do run my belt tension around 120 lbs. The strap was a great tip. Bruce
 
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