Rear tire replacement time

[RykerUSA]

All of my wear bars are flush with the tread but I have 5/32nds of tread left. That's a bit frustrating that, according to the manual, I have to replace my tire with 5/32nds left.

 

[Peter Aawen]

All of my wear bars are flush with the tread but I have 5/32nds of tread left. That's a bit frustrating that, according to the manual, I have to replace my tire with 5/32nds left.

Are you sure you're looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars, and not at the 'Tread Block Stabilisation' bars?? Look to the sides of the tread - if you are running the OE Spec Kendas, there will be a little triangle embossed upon the edge of the tread pointing at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars.... if you can't find a triangle on each side of the tread pointing at those bars, you are NOT looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicators'!! :shocked:

The other bars are there to stabilise the tread blocks on either side of the deep tread grooves and to force any water/ice/slush that may get trapped in those grooves to 'break out' of the groove as the tire rotates and help clear the grooves for the next revolution.... and they will generally become flush with the rest of the tread surface about 2/32nds BEFORE the Tread Wear Indicator bars wear flush.... but the Tread Block Stabilisation bars WON'T have those little triangles pointing at them!

 

[RykerUSA]

You're exactly right. I was not looking at the tread wear indicator but the stabilizer blocks. Thanks so much..

 

[Greven]

Are you sure you're looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars, and not at the 'Tread Block Stabilisation' bars?? Look to the sides of the tread - if you are running the OE Spec Kendas, there will be a little triangle embossed upon the edge of the tread pointing at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars.... if you can't find a triangle on each side of the tread pointing at those bars, you are NOT looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicators'!! :shocked:

The other bars are there to stabilise the tread blocks on either side of the deep tread grooves and to force any water/ice/slush that may get trapped in those grooves to 'break out' of the groove as the tire rotates and help clear the grooves for the next revolution.... and they will generally become flush with the rest of the tread surface about 2/32nds BEFORE the Tread Wear Indicator bars wear flush.... but the Tread Block Stabilisation bars WON'T have those little triangles pointing at them!

Thanks for the lesson, I havent even finnished the morning coffee and allready learnt something. Good start of the week

 

[RykerUSA]

OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.

The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.

The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.

35 lbs. psi :gaah: ....28 lbs. psi :gaah: ..... An auto tire , any auto tire only needs 18psi in an RT Spyder, a Ryker needs a little less ..... Auto tires are NOT Crapenda's ..... IMHO 17-18 psi will be a whole lot better, try it you should be pleasantly surprised ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Tslepebull]

OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.

The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.

How about some photos of the Dunlop and fitment.

 

[BajaRon]

35 lbs. psi :gaah: ....28 lbs. psi :gaah: ..... An auto tire , any auto tire only needs 18psi in an RT Spyder, a Ryker needs a little less ..... Auto tires are NOT Crapenda's ..... IMHO 17-18 psi will be a whole lot better, try it you should be pleasantly surprised ...... Mike :thumbup:

I don't know about 18 psi. Not saying it's wrong. Just saying it sounds low and I haven't tried it. But we can certainly agree that 35 psi is WAY TOO much for the rear tire on a Spyder. Probably won't hurt anything. But you'd better double up on your denture-cream!

 

[RykerUSA]

Ok, just got back from about 240 miles on the Dunlop at 25 pounds. Much improved over 35 pounds. No issues at all. Rides just fine. Side benefit: Considerable mileage improvement. Got 180 miles out of one tank w 8 tenths of a gallon left. That's better than a poke in the eye!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Ok, just got back from about 240 miles on the Dunlop at 25 pounds. Much improved over 35 pounds. No issues at all. Rides just fine. Side benefit: Considerable mileage improvement. Got 180 miles out of one tank w 8 tenths of a gallon left. That's better than a poke in the eye!

:clap::clap::clap: ... Since you are Open minded about this just try 18 psi., I think you will be pleasantly surprised. There is a lot of " Tire Science " , behind this amount and I'm sure Peter Aawen will write at least 500 words explaining it, He can and does looooooooooooooove to type. .... me not so much. .... I will type this tho, " tire air pressure " is part of the " over-all " suspension system of ANY vehicle. It directly relates to performance, wet or dry roads annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd the level of Comfort you get. good luck .... Mike :thumbup:....PS I get a couple of PM's a week asking about tires.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I don't know about 18 psi. Not saying it's wrong. Just saying it sounds low and I haven't tried it. But we can certainly agree that 35 psi is WAY TOO much for the rear tire on a Spyder. Probably won't hurt anything. But you'd better double up on your denture-cream!

Ron, I'm very Glad you don't like " 35 psi " ..... however I'm very curious why you don't think " 18 psi " should be used ( actually I was afraid to suggest 15 psi, which is what Peter might suggest ). Thanks for your reply ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[canamryder]

Ron, I'm very Glad you don't like " 35 psi " ..... however I'm very curious why you don't think " 18 psi " should be used ( actually I was afraid to suggest 15 psi, which is what Peter might suggest ). Thanks for your reply ..... Mike :thumbup:

What would be a good balance, speaking PSI, between comfort and even tread wear?

 

[RykerUSA]

Ron,
You are a Guinness! Ran it at 20 lbs. Just lovely!

 

[chris56]

I use a TOYO 16" since 16.000 miles and its still OK - got a paper from them that I can use it on my Ryker 900 (we need this here in Europe)
they said I should use with 30 PSI (2 bars) !

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I use a TOYO 16" since 16.000 miles and its still OK - got a paper from them that I can use it on my Ryker 900 (we need this here in Europe)
they said I should use with 30 PSI (2 bars) !

30 psi., that is what I would use in a vehicle that weighed ..... 3000 +/- lbs...... on a vehicle that weighed 700lbs ( like a Ryker ) traction will be less and it will ride like it was filled with cement. ............ Mike :thumbup:

 

[chris56]

30 psi., that is what I would use in a vehicle that weighed ..... 3000 +/- lbs...... on a vehicle that weighed 700lbs ( like a Ryker ) traction will be less and it will ride like it was filled with cement. ............ Mike :thumbup:

Hi Mike .. plan to change the tire for the next season, so on my last Trips I will go down with the pressure, maybe its really more comfortable ..keep you informed

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi Mike .. plan to change the tire for the next season, so on my last Trips I will go down with the pressure, maybe its really more comfortable ..keep you informed

" maybe " ..... most folks don't realize that the Tires are part of the suspension, tires that are much harder due to higher PSI's are not going to FLEX as much .... a lightweight vehicle like a Ryker or Spyder, it's going to be much more so. There have been hundreds of folks here who switched to Auto tires and complained about the Harsh ride, until they lowered their PSI ( from OEM Kenda's ) to what Peter Aawen and I have recommended. .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Tslepebull]

OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.

The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.

When you got the new tire mounted and balanced was it necessary to remove the brake rotor from the wheel? I just watched a youtube video where the owner did just that. It didn;t seem necessary and looked like a bunch of trouble

 

[Steve W.]

You don't need to remove the rotor to get it off the bike. When the axle is removed, the caliper will lift out of the way, allowing everything to come out.

.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Caliper bolts (15 mm head) are accessible by socket, with fender support cover in place.
Bolts remain in place after clearing caliper mount plate, to continue to support fender.