Rear suspension question

[stevedfive]

Since the RT has a seat sensor, does it auto adjust like the RTS or does it require the mini compressor?

 

[NancysToy]

The seat sensor is to sense a passenger, and change the brake bias. The RT rear suspension must be manually adjusted by adding/bleeding air through the Schrader valve under the seat. The RTS adjusts through the switch on the dash, via the ride height sensor.

 

[stevedfive]

Thank you

 

[bobbobtar]

seat sensor

If I remove the seat to install a backrest is there a chance that I will knock the sensor out of adjustment and if so how do I get it back into place.

 

[NancysToy]

If I remove the seat to install a backrest is there a chance that I will knock the sensor out of adjustment and if so how do I get it back into place.

Not likely. It is a plastic "puck" with a top that pushes in, screwed tightly to the seat. You will want to unplug it, though. That is easier with the left rear side panel removed or loosened.

 

[Rider Steve]

The seat sensor is to sense a passenger, and change the brake bias. The RT rear suspension must be manually adjusted by adding/bleeding air through the Schrader valve under the seat. The RTS adjusts through the switch on the dash, via the ride height sensor.

Thank you very much for that info.

 

[Recon]

backrest

no problem with sensors when installing backrest on RTS, I put a Utopia on mine in July in about 1/2 hour and it's best thing I've done:thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

Corbin's instructions for a seat replacment seem to be pretty thorough in their discussion of that sensor...

 

[murphybrown]

Anyone got more info please?

Just read under general discussion area about a BRP rear shock bulletin and replacing the evap canister (if your vin# is listed)...
How can I find out if these affect my 2010 RTSE5...so I can get my dealer to order the necessary parts...still waiting and waiting for my name to rise to the top for dps fix...:yikes:

 

[murphybrown]

How to???

Went to hook up my wiring harness for Gebring heated ryding gear...no issue getting positive positioned...when I went to put on ground wire...the bolt would not release, just turned...:gaah:
Where to put the ground wire and how to access? Thank you so much...temp is dropping, dropping and I want to keep ryding...
Thank you very much. All you Spyder Lovers have helped me multiple times...heck pretty soon I will feel brave enough to say I am becoming a Spyder mod doer :shocked: lol

 

[NancysToy]

Just read under general discussion area about a BRP rear shock bulletin and replacing the evap canister (if your vin# is listed)...
How can I find out if these affect my 2010 RTSE5...so I can get my dealer to order the necessary parts...still waiting and waiting for my name to rise to the top for dps fix...:yikes:

The rear shock bulletin may apply to you, but it is only for those who are experiencing problems with rear shock failure, the way I understand it. Your dealer can tell you if your Spyder is listed. If you are talking about the evap canister vent hose, that applies only to the 2008 and some 2009 RS models.

Went to hook up my wiring harness for Gebring heated ryding gear...no issue getting positive positioned...when I went to put on ground wire...the bolt would not release, just turned...:gaah:
Where to put the ground wire and how to access? Thank you so much...temp is dropping, dropping and I want to keep ryding...
Thank you very much. All you Spyder Lovers have helped me multiple times...heck pretty soon I will feel brave enough to say I am becoming a Spyder mod doer :shocked: lol

You tried to hook them to the wrong terminals. You used the jumper terminals under the seat, instead of going all the way back to the battery terminals. The jumper ground is held by a simple nut and bolt. When you loosen the bolt slightly, the nut will turn. Unfortunately, It is very hard to get to and will require panel removal to remedy. On the good side, with the panels off, you can get to the battery terminals.

 

[Eraser]

Went to hook up my wiring harness for Gebring heated ryding gear...no issue getting positive positioned...when I went to put on ground wire...the bolt would not release, just turned...:gaah:
Where to put the ground wire and how to access? Thank you so much...temp is dropping, dropping and I want to keep ryding...
Thank you very much. All you Spyder Lovers have helped me multiple times...heck pretty soon I will feel brave enough to say I am becoming a Spyder mod doer :shocked: lol

Don't bury your fuse in the tupperware or make sure the fuse that is on the harness is adequate for what you are goung to run.
I used a tiny self-tapping screw through the ground at the jumper leads and did not remove the panels on either bike.Better access to the fuse.Gerbing has the fuse too close to the connectors.

 

[murphybrown]

The rear shock bulletin may apply to you, but it is only for those who are experiencing problems with rear shock failure, the way I understand it. Your dealer can tell you if your Spyder is listed. If you are talking about the evap canister vent hose, that applies only to the 2008 and some 2009 RS models.


You tried to hook them to the wrong terminals. You used the jumper terminals under the seat, instead of going all the way back to the battery terminals. The jumper ground is held by a simple nut and bolt. When you loosen the bolt slightly, the nut will turn. Unfortunately, It is very hard to get to and will require panel removal to remedy. On the good side, with the panels off, you can get to the battery terminals.

Thanks Scotty I am assuming I have to remove panels to access the battery terminals . If I do any helpful hints...I have NEVER removed one and they do intimidate me.. Have a great day.

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty I am assuming I have to remove panels to access the battery terminals . If I do any helpful hints...I have NEVER removed one and they do intimidate me.. Have a great day.

The panels overlap, and they are intimidating the first time, with the number that need to be removed. There are instructions in your manual. My only advice is to have a tube of RTV silicone or some Goop adhesive handy, to glue in the rubber grommets while they are exposed. They come out and are lost readily, otherwise. It does help to wet them when you re-install the panels. Take your time and it will all work out.

 

[sinkhole]

After finally getting the hang of how to install those two angular studs on the center side panels... and it took a while, the toughest panel on my RT is the right lower panel that covers the radiatior. The front wedgie that grips the filter is a "bear" on this side. The oil radiator side is no trouble at all.