Rear Shock Recommendation

[ThreeWheels]

Strange, I did a search for "rear shock" and didn't find anything useful.

I've had the rear shock go bad again. This is the second failure in three weeks. I've found several posts about other people suffering multiple shock failures.

I know BRP is aware of this, but replacing my crappy broken shock with a crappy new shock that will break again seems pointless.

I saw KewlMetal selling a shock for the RS for $845. That's way too much money and anyway, I have an RT.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a decent shock absorber, something in the $200 range ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

 

[Dudley]

You're talking about the spring assist or the air bag?
I had the air bag replaced from the get go. But, it was still leaking, though not as bad. I checked the valve core and found it over one turn too loose. Tightened it up and all is well, over 8000 miles since.

 

[ThreeWheels]

I'm talking about the failure of the shock dampening, not the spring or the air assist.

I get the "pogo stick" affect.

And a one and a two, follow the bouncing RT as we sing along.......................................

 

[DougB]

Replaced my rear shock with an Elka. My dealers mechanic tried telling me my stock shock was fine after checking the air bag pressure. Changing dealers to Jim Potts in Woodstock, IL.

 

[Dudley]

We get the pogo stick effect when the air bag gets too low. We run 35-40 pounds in the air bag.

 

[NancysToy]

Has your dealer performed Wervice Bulletin 2010-006, with the revised procedure to set and calibrate the ACS (ride-height) sensor? If the shock tops out, it will be damaged. Doing the service bulletin calibration and inspection can prevent this, as long as the suspension air pressure is not set too high.

 

[hawkiii]

Jim Potts

Replaced my rear shock with an Elka. My dealers mechanic tried telling me my stock shock was fine after checking the air bag pressure. Changing dealers to Jim Potts in Woodstock, IL.

Jim and his wife are really good people. They will fix you up. They helped me and my wife when we were in Chicago last year.

 

[freebob]

I'm talking about the failure of the shock dampening, not the spring or the air assist.

I get the "pogo stick" affect.

And a one and a two, follow the bouncing RT as we sing along.......................................

OK, I understand now what you problem is...Thank you...
Hope you can find a solution, Usually when a shock goes bad ther are other signs such as fluid leaking past the seals on shock...

Freebob...:doorag:

 

[SC92]

Replacement rear shock

I had six rear shock replacements before I bit the bullet and replaced it with an after market shock.
My shocks were losing the rebound damping and every thing my dealer tried would not stop them stuffing up.
I replaced it with a Works Performance Shock and the Bike was totally transformed, the difference was worth every dollar.
I now have 24000 on the odometer and the WP shock has been there for approx 7000 and is still perfect.

http://www.worksperformance.com/html/home.html

They do not show Spyder shocks on their web site but if you give them a phone call and ask for Tom Edison he will look after you.

They build the shocks to order so expect a lead time. Discuss this with Tom so you don't get disappointed if they take a little time.

I could not be happier with mine.

 

[2NFrnt]

Strange, I did a search for "rear shock" and didn't find anything useful.

I've had the rear shock go bad again. This is the second failure in three weeks. I've found several posts about other people suffering multiple shock failures.

I know BRP is aware of this, but replacing my crappy broken shock with a crappy new shock that will break again seems pointless.

I saw KewlMetal selling a shock for the RS for $845. That's way too much money and anyway, I have an RT.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a decent shock absorber, something in the $200 range ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

ELKA 2Way Plus, yes it is way over $200, but worth it to me. I went thru 3 "factory" shocks in 3500 miles and gave up and bought a good one, have no regrets.

 

[dave711]

I had a rear shock go bad at about 2000 mi.. dealer replaced it at 3000mi service with another stock one.. now have 9500 mi and still working fine. Pogo sticking was not fun.. but 6 bad ones... something is not right with that!:lecturef_smilie:

 

[ThreeWheels]

Has your dealer performed Wervice Bulletin 2010-006, with the revised procedure to set and calibrate the ACS (ride-height) sensor? If the shock tops out, it will be damaged. Doing the service bulletin calibration and inspection can prevent this, as long as the suspension air pressure is not set too high.

Yes, they have. They were one of the shops that alerted BRP to this in the first place.

Alas, there doesn't seem to be any intermediate choice between cheap POS and Expensive fabulous exceptional performance.

I'm way OK with the stock performance. I just want reliability.

 

[NancysToy]

Yes, they have. They were one of the shops that alerted BRP to this in the first place.

Alas, there doesn't seem to be any intermediate choice between cheap POS and Expensive fabulous exceptional performance.

I'm way OK with the stock performance. I just want reliability.

That is really odd. It has to be a combination of the load, speed, and roads you ride. No good answer except a different (better) shock. I agree that it is too bad there is not a middle ground. It would be nice to have mildly improved performance in a more robust unit for maybe half again, or even twice as much as a stock shock. OK, I'll quit dreamin' and wake up now. Looks like a Works Performance or Elka may be your only remaining option.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Wellllll.....................I'm now going on OEM shock absorber number 4.

As long as BRP is paying, I'll keep replacing it.

That comes out to 4K miles per shock absorber. Not terribly awe inspiring.

Much more of this and BRP will wind up paying for SEVERAL Elkas by the time I'm off warranty.

I think I'll get the BEST warranty just for the shock absorber alone.

 

[StriperKing]

The RS-S rear shock is much more robust than the RT shock. It has to do all the work without the help of airbag assist. Mine went bad and I was not going to replace it with the same thing that everyone has to replace time and time again. I now have the RS-S rear shock for around $230.00 if I remember right. It is stiffer and works GREAT but the Elka and Works are stiffer also. All you have to do is make sure the ride adjustment plate is to the rear towards the tire. That is another benifit is that you do have 6 adjustments for firmness. The RS and RS-S shocks are not the same, both will work but the RS-S is a little stiffer. The shock length un-installed is the exact same as the RT and mounts with all the same bolts, spacers, etc. I have had this set-up for over 2000 miles and am very happy! If you rode with 40 lbs. in the air system you may have to ride with 15 or so after the change or if you have the RT-S you may have to ride with fewer bars to get the same feel. Just random #`s to explain the before and after.