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Rear Cargo Hatch open from Nanny
- Thread starter JimH
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
Are you absolutely sure that the latch is secure? :dontknow:
(Try prying up on it a bit with your fingertips, and see if it pops loose...)
If it continues: there has to be a sensor on the latch that could stand some adjustment...
Good luck! :thumbup:
(Try prying up on it a bit with your fingertips, and see if it pops loose...)
If it continues: there has to be a sensor on the latch that could stand some adjustment...
Good luck! :thumbup:
billybovine
Active member
The top case cannot be slammed shut. On mine anyway. When the lid is closed. Press down and the lid will lock. If you are sure the doors are fully closed and you still get the warning. Maybe something needs to be adjusted.
Kiry
New member
When I first got mine, I noticed that the lid was sticky. Sometimes wouldn't latch well, or was difficult to do so. I've since lubed it, and no issues since. PS: Lubed both the latch and the connecting area.
Perhaps that stickiness might be prevent it from shifting "engaged" fully?
Perhaps that stickiness might be prevent it from shifting "engaged" fully?
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
Funny you should start a post about the rear trunk lid. Yesterday while running some errands on my 2017 F3 Limited, I also had the same problem with the warning about the rear cargo open alert. I even stopped to check to make sure at my last errand stop that I had closed the rear trunk lid. I pulled up on it and it would not open. I even opened it and closed it again and still got the warning. Well my last errand stop was at Walgreen to pick up some meds. Opened the trunk put my meds in and closed the trunk. To my amazement the rear cargo warning was now gone. I had opened and closed the rear trunk lid the same at all my stops, so I don't know what was going on. I just think the rear trunk lid is made very cheap, in my opinion. I did look at the switch that has to be made when the trunk is closed and all looked good.
NautiBrit
New member
There are 2 tabs, one on either side of the back of the lid, that must fit into the appropriate slots on the case. The lid is very flexible and if one of the tabs is out of position, the lid will close, but the warning light may still come on. Or you may have a faulty switch. :dontknow:
rays hell
Member
Switch
Several people have mentioned that switch. It seems, like mine the tolerance is very small with no adjustment and the post on the lid is not fully pushing down on the switch arm that sits in the trunk latch.
I noticed my switch was a bit loose so I eased it up and placed a small piece of plastic under it
and yet to have any more issues with it.
Several people have mentioned that switch. It seems, like mine the tolerance is very small with no adjustment and the post on the lid is not fully pushing down on the switch arm that sits in the trunk latch.
I noticed my switch was a bit loose so I eased it up and placed a small piece of plastic under it
and yet to have any more issues with it.
Open the lid and look where the latch is at.
There you will see a silver springy looking thing.
That is the microswitch that must engage to turn the light off.
We deal with these a lot at work. Sometimes you have to bend the metal springy thing up a bit on the end so it will push down farther.
There you will see a silver springy looking thing.
That is the microswitch that must engage to turn the light off.
We deal with these a lot at work. Sometimes you have to bend the metal springy thing up a bit on the end so it will push down farther.
AY4B
New member
I would not mess with that tiny switch. You can easily pull that metal spring out and make it worse. If you look under the lid you will see a small finger like plastic that is what goes into where the switch is and closes the contact. That piece of plastic needs to be slightly longer. Just enough to close the contact it is depressing. I have used anything from electrical tape to hollowing out an ear plug to an electrical heat shrink piece to just give it a little extra reach. On another thread I started on this subject, someone else suggested the electrical heat shrink and I found it to be the best solution. get one that will fit then using a heat gun carefully shrink and shape it to fit tight and cut off the excess and mash it down while it is still soft. Problem solved. Just be careful with the heat gun to not damage your lid though. if you are wondering what I mean by electrical heat shrink, They sell them at auto parts and are usually in those kits that have everything for automotive connections. They look like a one inch rubber straw that you put on your connections to insulate them. You just need a little heat to shrink it around the connection.
I just remembered what I used was a roll of soft rubber like substance that came with my XK glow lights to insulate the connections. It is a roll like fruit roll ups only a soft rubber like stuff that when you wrap a connection with it and apply heat, it gets soft and can be shaped to anything. I wish I knew what its called but it worked the best for the lid problem. You can also try that stuff called plastic dip. I sprayed my stock windshield with it but think they also sell it in a can for dipping tools.
I just remembered what I used was a roll of soft rubber like substance that came with my XK glow lights to insulate the connections. It is a roll like fruit roll ups only a soft rubber like stuff that when you wrap a connection with it and apply heat, it gets soft and can be shaped to anything. I wish I knew what its called but it worked the best for the lid problem. You can also try that stuff called plastic dip. I sprayed my stock windshield with it but think they also sell it in a can for dipping tools.
