Rear caliper question

[Lagaffe]

Flamewinger,

This will not make you fell better, but I had the same issue last year with my 14. BRP changed the calipers in 13 and they no longer rotate back with the parking brake lever. I tried everything including the C clamp, but was unable to retract the piston. Do not bother renting the piston retraction tools from an auto store as none of the plates fit the Spyder piston.

I did try two punches that fit into the holes in the piston and a bar between them to rotate the piston, but was unable to move the pistion back.

What I finally did was remove the caliper and took it to my dealer who was unable to retract it also so they ordered me a new one and installed it under warranty.

I hope you have better luck!

It's exactly why i said NEVER USE A C CLAMP... You will broke the small thread between the piston and the caliper. The piston must act like a screw in a nut.

 

[happyspyder2039]

Have you tried removing the cap on the brake reservoir? Be careful, it can be messy if the reservoir is full.

:agree: I have done this on other bikes.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Remove the arm from the parking brake. Use a socket large enough to go over the threaded shaft that the parking brake arm bolts on to. 1 1/8" 1/2" drive socket. That will protect the parking brake shaft while using the C clamp. Position the C clamp so that the piston can be compressed, once snug open the bleeder valve while tightening the C clamp. Ensure that the piston is clean because brake dust can keep the piston from retracting. Compress the piston until flush, close the bleeder valve install your new pads and you are done. We have done it on two bikes this month and it is a royal pain in the rear end! Susie, I hope you have a helper.

 

[Lagaffe]

Remove the arm from the parking brake. Use a socket large enough to go over the threaded shaft that the parking brake arm bolts on to. 1 1/8" 1/2" drive socket. That will protect the parking brake shaft while using the C clamp. Position the C clamp so that the piston can be compressed, once snug open the bleeder valve while tightening the C clamp. Ensure that the piston is clean because brake dust can keep the piston from retracting. Compress the piston until flush, close the bleeder valve install your new pads and you are done. We have done it on two bikes this month and it is a royal pain in the rear end! Susie, I hope you have a helper.

Ann...

You can do that on the front calipers only.
But for the rear brake, you can't use that method on 2013 and 2014 models.
The piston is screwed into the caliper...

 

[Biosafena]

So, let me see if I have this correct...the piston on the REAR caliper on 2012 and prior models gets pushed back in and on the 2013/2014 models gets screwed back in?


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[Lagaffe]

So, let me see if I have this correct...the piston on the REAR caliper on 2012 and prior models gets pushed back in and on the 2013/2014 models gets screwed back in?


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Yes you are correct...

They introduce the Brembo's brakes in 2013.

 

[Flamewinger]

I wouldn't mind taking the caliper off the bike to take it to my nearest dealer, the problem is my nearest dealer is 100 miles away which is a real pain. I guess I'll be playing with it until my friend gets back from hunting. Then, maybe both of us can work it in. Otherwise I'll remove it and do the 200 miles. Cross my fingers they can do it or replace it under warranty. Thanks all!


Susie
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[SpyderAnn01]

Ann...

You can do that on the front calipers only.
But for the rear brake, you can't use that method on 2013 and 2014 models.
The piston is screwed into the caliper...

We did that on my rear brakes last week and it worked fine. In fact the service tech at our dealership is the one who suggested using that method.

 

[Chupaca]

Bummer..!!

Quick question..did you have the piston out of the caliper at any time..?? from what I can see in the picture that piston is to far out already. Also most pistons have the hollow side facing out :dontknow: Your best bet is to push it all the way out so you can line it up properly. Pull the dust cover off so you can see better make sure your o rings are in and apply a bit of fluid on and start the piston back in making sure it is straight. If it jams to one side little pressure on the opposite side will get it straight once again. Any car shop or bike shop can help you out if you take them the caliper...:thumbup:

 

[Flamewinger]

I got the caliper off and tried to use the old pads to back the piston up. Didn't budge. Ended up removing the pads and, in trying to "pull the lever back" to back the piston, it still wouldn't budge but the lever easily moved forward and that pushed the piston out as far as it will go. Never had the piston all the way out and in pushing it in, it always stayed straight but didn't move in.

 

[CricketRider]

Ok, first off this is Flamewinger only I'm having problems logging in with Tappatalk so I'm using a new login.

I'm out at dealer in Lodi California and they are telling me the caliper has to be rebuilt and there is no rebuild kit. BRP considers the brake caliper to be a wear and tear item and is not covered under warranty. They're trying to do some kind of deal to make it possible. I am now just waiting to go back and find out the answer.

I would think the brake pads are wear and tear but the calibers part of the bike and I don't know what BRB is pulling (or the dealership) but we'll see. I'd like to know I'll get a new caliper or something.

Anyone know now if a salvage place that sells Spyder parts?

Flamewinger

using new sign-on cause Tapatalk messed up my password.

 

[Flamewinger]

Good News!!!

I was told by the first dealer that the caliper is bad and is not covered under warranty. I figured, what the hell, and went another 20+ miles to another dealer and they were not only able to rebuild it from a spare but they want me to bring the bike in next week to get a warranty replacement installed by them, Go Figure!?!?!

It seems you have to use a strong pair of pliers to screw the piston back in. There are two holes for this and the service manual is wrong in using the lever to retract the piston. Also this dealer has Kumho's and will be getting Arachnid's along with the newer BRP (Kenda) tires. I'm going to this Elk Grove Powersports for my service!

Thanks everyone!

 

[Gray Ghost]

I'm going to this Elk Grove Powersports for my service!

They sure helped me out when I was traveling through the area last summer. Glad they are helping you also.

 

[Highwayman2013]

I just did the rear brakes on my 2012 and yes you push the pistons in with a c clamp. I have a 1998 Mercury that has to have the rear caliper pistons screwed in so I assume the Brembos are the same.

 

[Flamewinger]

Yes, 2013's and up are different. You do have to "screw" the piston back in. There are two holes in the head of the piston that you can poke a good set of pliers into then turn it counter clock wise to retract the piston.

With rebuilt calpier, I putt back in and hooked up the brake fluid line. Pumped and pumped and eventually bled the rear. I have some braking but the rear is not working. Dealer will replace with new this week. No error codes. (so far)

 

[DrewNJ]

Also, don't be surprised if you see 4 holes. Already seen one rear caliper with 4 holes instead of 2. Same procedure though.

It also wouldn't surprise me if some of the 08' machines had different calipers than the 09'-12' machines since it was the very first year.

 

[TexasMule]

Rear Brake Piston

I just wanted to update this thread with some additional information.

While replacing the tire on TxSpyderGirl's '14 RT-S the rear brake pads squeezed together. :banghead:

I was aware of "screwing" the piston back in so I proceeded to try, for almost 2 hours....

Here's how to do it with almost no heartburn - open the bleeder screw just enough to let out some
brake fluid, take a pair of needle nose pliers and place them in the two holes in the piston, and
rotate and push in a clockwise motion. I put an old t-shirt round the bleeder to catch the brake fluid.

Took less than 5 minutes after fighting with the thing for almost 2 hours.

No need for a C-clamp, just push and turn in a clockwise direction and it'll go right back in.

Very little brake fluid came out. You can always check your master cylinder and add brake fluid if necessary.

Hopefully this will help someone trying to replace brake pads on the newer Spyders.

 

[KX5062]

Nice tip!
Thanks.

 

[gypsy_100]

Yes, 2013's and up are different. You do have to "screw" the piston back in. There are two holes in the head of the piston that you can poke a good set of pliers into then turn it counter clock wise to retract the piston.

I just wanted to update this thread with some additional information.

...open the bleeder screw just enough to let out some
brake fluid, take a pair of needle nose pliers and place them in the two holes in the piston, and
rotate and push in a clockwise motion. I put an old t-shirt round the bleeder to catch the brake fluid.

No need for a C-clamp, just push and turn in a clockwise direction and it'll go right back in.

Can we get a consensus here -- clockwise or counterclockwise ??

Thanks.

 

[cptjam]

Which way?

Please clear this up! We used a clamp. I am all for easier! Joe