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Rear axle removal

Black Pig

Member
I have done this a couple of times in the past and as I recall, I only have to undo one nut and the axle should pull straight through right?

Well, I have spent an hour trying to get the bugger out and it will not shift, as I am belting one end with the (lead) hammer, the rear SA just seems to splay out a wee bit. Am I missing something or do I have (as I suspect) a seizure?

Jeez for what these things cost they are a bitter disappointment when it comes to build quality.
 
I have had mine out several times and it always goes easy. My best guess is it is seized to the bearing a bit due to normal corrosion. Try tapping it back in then back out a bit at a time to break it loose. make sure to protect the shaft as it is hollow and could mushroom but I doubt you can get much of a swing if it is an RT. You can use a slide hammer on the left side to pull as some one taps on the right side. The Axil has to be a good fit in the bearing so a bit of corrosion may build up from road debris.
 
But I am right though aren't I, I should just undo the nut on the RHS and the axle should just pull through to the left?
 
As a thought to make a simple puller. Use a deep socket on the belt side. Find a section of threaded rod to slide through the socket square drive and out the axle opposite end. Install a washer and nut as required. If the socket will slip over the axle head, the axle should draw into the socket as the rod is tightened.

This may seem obvious, but has the belt tensioned been reduced?

PK
 
Dave had that problem, too. His was corroded, and the axle had rusted to the sleeve and bearings. As I recall the solution was lots of heat, twisting, and beating. When and if you get it out, replacing the seals (and bearings) is probably be a good idea.
 
Well... Thanks for all the replies guys, however, I managed to get the bugger out last night.

Liberal amounts of penetrating oil and heat still did nowt for me, so on closer inspection it was clear that the axle rod had siezed into the allowy adjustment block on the LHS. So Straight to Ebay and found a replacement axle and adjustment blocks... Buy it Now and pow. Long term solution.

Went back down to the mancave and tried again, to no avail, eventually I set Mr. Makita about the alloy block and drilled loads of holes in it, to remove as much metal as possible and eventually it managed to break free.

HALLELUJIA!!

Oh, then I spotted cracking on the drive belt BAAAAASTAAAAA*******!!!!!!:gaah:

Hey ho, back to ebay, these thing just got 10 times harder as my local dealership went bust, last October. So it getting more difficult to source spares over here.

I will post some pics up, however, I am not home for the next couple of days.
 
Thanks you for the update. It will certainly add to our knowledge base. So sorry you have had to work so hard at it. You guys in the UK have a difficult time, without a decent dealer network.
 
Axle corrosion is a problem with all brands of motorcycles in cold wet climates, like Scotland. ;) The easiest way to avoid it, is to pull the axle and grease the axle shaft with good water resistant grease. Some people prefer anti-seize, but I don't because of the water issue.
 
I had actually coated the axle with copper coat anti-seize, but I am wondering if this exacerbated the problem by adding a third metal into the dissimilar metal mix.

I am trying to determine the beat anti-seize grease to use between steel and alloy. I have found lots of interesting perspectives.
 
I had actually coated the axle with copper coat anti-seize, but I am wondering if this exacerbated the problem by adding a third metal into the dissimilar metal mix.

I am trying to determine the beat anti-seize grease to use between steel and alloy. I have found lots of interesting perspectives.

Electricians use a compound when working with Aluminum wire to prevent corrosion in the joints. Should be low cost and easy to find.
 
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