• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Really new Gimp Spyder owner

Habib

Habib

New member
First what I bought - 2010 RS SE5. Not sure when the oil was changed and I really don't care, I'm a firm believer in an oil/filter change being the cheapest form of insurance. I received no manuals with the bike, the only references I have is what I can scrounge off this site and the web. I want to get everything I'll need together before I start. So far I've figured out I'll need 5-6 quarts of fully synthetic oil. I use Mobil 1 in the car and plan on putting it in the bike unless someone says it's no good. So, I need some Mobile 1 5W-40 what other filters, 'O' rings, special washers etc. are needed for a complete systems oil and filter change? I'll get the stuff from the local dealer but I want to make sure from those that do the job themselves I get everything necessary the first time.

Second, Other than online videos and Lamonsters write-up anyone have any tips/tricks or hint's?

Thanks.
 
Oil change

Never put an oil that is made for use in a car in a Motorcycle! Get oil made for use in a motorcycle. Please see the threads about oil on SL. You have a high rev 990 or 998 ROTAX engine in the RS Spyder. Others please chime in.
 
Habib said:
First what I bought - 2010 RS SE5. Not sure when the oil was changed and I really don't care, I'm a firm believer in an oil/filter change being the cheapest form of insurance. I received no manuals with the bike, the only references I have is what I can scrounge off this site and the web. I want to get everything I'll need together before I start. So far I've figured out I'll need 5-6 quarts of fully synthetic oil. I use Mobil 1 in the car and plan on putting it in the bike unless someone says it's no good. So, I need some Mobile 1 5W-40 what other filters, 'O' rings, special washers etc. are needed for a complete systems oil and filter change? I'll get the stuff from the local dealer but I want to make sure from those that do the job themselves I get everything necessary the first time.

Second, Other than online videos and Lamonsters write-up anyone have any tips/tricks or hint's?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Mobile one I think it's SM oil which is not good for your clutch and Baja RON has oil filters and oil rings for your. Bike. I would suggest changing the drain plugs to Magnetic a good plug is dimple magnetic plugs or gold plugs dimple is a far superior than gold but they work fine. You could get a service manual on eBay for your bike
 
:welcome:

For your first DIY oil change--may I recommend

See Baja Ron (an onsite sponsor). He has all the "right" stuff.

Dealers also have an oil change "kit" package made for your particular machine. About $75. More expensive than auto parts store, but a few bucks for the right stuff = good insurance.
 
Let's see....

I have an RS and use BRP synthetic blend.(you can get full synthetic as well) I order the kits online from ebay and they come with all you need but the tools. BajaRon sells all you need as well as Amsoil which is full synthetic and well known oil used by many here. There are others out there and as long as they meet the spec's for rotax engines can be used...You can download the manual to your phone or computer or order one at the dealer. If you are going to do your own work get the shop manual online...I have the greeen manual...Welcome spyder lover...'':thumbup:
 
I use mobile 1 synthetic motorcycle oil.

67 k on 2009 phantom

noproblems so far.

used the same in my 08 78k
 
To get an electronic copy of your handbook go here:
http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/...ogin.aspx?ReturnUrl=/Index.aspx?lang=e&lang=e

Just click the view button (no need to enter e-mail) select Roadster from the dropdown menu and then your year model etc

As jtoro1 mentioned must be a motorcycle grade oil. Oils designed for cars have additives that ruin motorcycle clutch plates by making them slip.

Like many others I get my filters from Bajaron as they come with the oil plug washers etc. The SE has two oil filters while the SM only has one so make sure you order the right kit. The amount of oil required is different between the two models as well.

There's two oil plugs to drain, one on the engine the other on the oil tank. The can be a pain to undo if they are still the original plugs.

When checking the oil level engine needs to be at operating temp. I normally do it straight after a ride.
 
Last edited:
There are several sources for service manuals online. Midwest Manuals and Green Manuals come to mind. PistonBlown has you covered on the Owners Manual. Good luck!
 
:welcome: and :congrats: I have been getting the BRP oil change kit from the Lifestyle honda in Mt Vernon. Good luck.
 
jerpinoy said:
:welcome: and :congrats: I have been getting the BRP oil change kit from the Lifestyle honda in Mt Vernon. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Since I'm in Stanwood that is my local dealer. How are they on service items, overpriced or reasonable and competent? That's where I'll be going for that sort of thing as necessary. I almost bought a Spyder from them but stumbled on the one I have now, I know the sales guy I dealt with was really decent.
 
Habib said:
First what I bought - 2010 RS SE5...
Second, Other than online videos and Lamonsters write-up anyone have any tips/tricks or hint's?
Click to expand...

I get the BRP Spyder SE5 service kits off Ebay for my oil changes. Note that you'll need to make sure it's the updated kit with long transmission filter (early Spyder's used a short transmission filter that was rated for about 3,000 miles but then BRP extended the transmission filter so their new recommendation is 4,600 miles between oil and filter changes but only for the LONG transmission filters)! The BRP kits I've received and used so far all included not only new copper crush washers and new o-rings but also an extended transmission filter cover (in case you don't already have the long tranny filter and cover). You can go from short to long but not the other way around if you don't already have the short filter cover on hand.

Check YouTube for videos showing step by step how to maintain your new baby. Your first oil and filter change should take you a little over an hour to complete... after that you'll know how to do it and it won't take you but about 30 minutes or so from then on. All the tools you need are in the took kit that should be located inside your frunk. Take your time the 1st time and get it right!

I made three 5 inch high ramps to get my Spyder up a little higher off the ground, makes changing the oil a lot easier and cost basically nothing I just used some scrap cut-off boards I had left over from a deck project.

Remember to always ride your Spyder around the block a time or two and then kill it and check the oil level quickly to get the right reading of the stick! You don't check the oil level cold, it has to be warmed up good 1st and then checked almost immediately once you shut the engine off on a relatively level surface (I ride around the neighborhood loop with the engine cover already off before I check my oil level). Take care when putting the engine cover back on, I burnt the mess out of my pinky finger trying to get the cover back into position after checking the oil in mine a while back... that exhaust pipe is bloody HOT! :banghead:

Lastly, I changed the OEM paper air filter and went with a K&N high performance air filter and it REALLY makes a huge difference! Acceleration is much better and it no longer backfires when downshifting, ever! That paper OEM air filter is extremely thick and restrictive the engine can't get air in thru it worth a flip IMHO! I highly recommend tossing the OEM paper air filter as soon as possible it's an inexpensive upgrade to put the K&N filter in the air box. Assuming of course yours hasn't already been changed out.... ???

- Michael
 
I have used Amsoil !00% synthetic since first oil change and no problems with 33,000 miles. Bajaron is a good source for everything. Also recommend to change the two drain plugs before you have a problem removing the originals. I use Gold Plugs and love them and priced very reasonable.
Roger
 
FWIW, here's what the 2010 RS amnual says:
"Recommended Engine Oil
The same oil is used for the engine,gearbox, clutch, and the HCM in theSE5 models.Use the XPS SYNTHETIC BLEND OIL(SUMMER GRADE) (P/N 293 600 121)or a 5W 40 semi-synthetic (minimum)or synthetic motorcycle oil meetingthe requirements for API service SL,SJ, SH or SG classification. Alwayscheck the API service label on the oilcontainer."

Mobil 1 4T Racing synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil is API service code SH, SG.
 
Use bajaron

E-mail him or call he'll get you what you need and believe me he gets it to you so fast you'll never want to take time going here and there hoping you got the right stuff.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
998cc Is this High Oil Usage??
Replies
9
Views
3K
NorwegianRT
NorwegianRT
T
2013 Spyder ST new owner, Clutch problem - Any Ideas?
Replies
0
Views
3K
Tomguitar
T
Cobranut
New Coolant will not circulate after refill, completing successful flush and change - anyone else? Any ideas on what might be causing it?
Replies
12
Views
481
Cobranut
Cobranut
R
Where is everyone getting SE5 Oil Filter and Oil these days?
Replies
15
Views
3K
pegasus1300
pegasus1300
JamesLaz
New Can-Am Spyder F3 Limited Owner/Rider Looking for Maintenance Advice.
Replies
9
Views
3K
fuzzyspyder
fuzzyspyder
Back
Top