Radiator fans not coming on

[VStarRider]

After several years of trouble free operation, I have my second issue in two weeks.

I noticed my temp gauge spiking while stuck in traffic idling today.

Check engine came on seconds later, along with a limp mode warning.

Shut it off till traffic started moving.

Once rolling, the temp gauge came back down to normal.

I let it idle in the driveway when I got home and it started heating up quickly.

Fans never kicked on.

Checked the fuse, looks good.

Now what?

 

[UtahPete]

After several years of trouble free operation, I have my second issue in two weeks.

• I noticed my temp gauge spiking while stuck in traffic idling today.
• Check engine came on seconds later, along with a limp mode warning.
• Shut it off till traffic started moving.
• Once rolling, the temp gauge came back down to normal.
• I let it idle in the driveway when I got home and it started heating up quickly.
• Fans never kicked on.
• Checked the fuse, looks good.

Now what?

Just from what you have said, it sounds like the temperature sensor may be bad. But, there are more knowledgeable people than me on this forum so let's wait and see.

 

[bikerchris1270]

Defective fan relay is a possibility.

 

[VStarRider]

Update: I checked the fuse (pink 30 amp in the left side box) with a multimeter. All good.

Question: is there a relay that controls the cooling fans somewhere? Or just the fuse? I know the older Spyders had relays, not sure about my '15.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Relays are those little square things in the fuse box where the fuses are. There used to be a label on the fuse box cover as to what everything is in there. Check that. If not, I have a wiring diagram for a 2013 ST. Assuming they didn't change a whole lot, the fan relay is relay R3 in the left side fuse box.

 

[VStarRider]

Final (I think) update:

-Bought the service manual online. Very helpful. Went through the procedures to test the relay, coolant temp sensor, and fan itself.
-Relay ... used my 2 amp battery charger to power it ... it works. Resistance and continuity fine.
-Coolant temp sensor ... surprisingly accessible with two LH panels removed ... used service manual and it tested fine.
-Fan ... decided to look at it real quick with the RH panel off - something didn't look right. Upon further inspection, the plug was disconnected.

Sigh.

In a previous post, I described a coolant leak. I brought it to the dealer. The replaced a hose clamp. My guess through circumstantial evidence only is that they disconnected the fan when they were diagnosing the leak and pressure testing. They prolly never reconnected it.

I rarely drive in traffic, and mostly ride at highway speeds.

Yesterday, due to road construction, was the first time since I had it back from the dealer that I was in a stop-go-idle situation this year.

I am mildly annoyed, but relieved and even appreciative.

I have had this fancy multimeter on my workbench for years - I finally had incentive to learn how to use it.

If I do have a relay, fuse or sensor failure, I now know how to assess these things instead taking it somewhere or throwing parts at it.

The dealer told me they have a two-month wait for service. If I had not taken these steps, I would have been riding with a fan power supply dangling, worried about the next extended period of idle all summer. For no reason.

Thanks to this forum for helping me along the way.

 

[UtahPete]

Sometimes it's the most obvious things, right? Glad to see you got it sorted out okay. Another vote for learning how to service your own machine because dealership wrenchers can't be trusted to do the job right unfortunately.