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Questions Regarding RT Models Prior to Purchase

Old Crow

New member
First time poster here. I’m a 66 yr old retiree and have gotten to the point where I need to exchange my 850 lb 1700cc touring bike for a three wheeler. I’m considering a 2010 RT with only 5200miles on it. The bike was taken in on trade at an independent dealer, not affiliated with Can Am . He’s not sure of the exact model, and I’m not familiar enough to know for sure whether it’s a base RT SM5 with options, an RT Audio/Convenience, oran RT S SM5.

The bike has the following equipment: electronic cruise, AM/FM, on the fly adjustable rear suspension, power adjustable windshield, heated passenger grips, passenger audio controls and fog lights. Based on what I’ve read, I think it’s an RT Audio/Convenience, but would like to confirm so I know I’m looking at the right NADA book values. Is there a link where I can plug in the VIN to get model?

Also, are there any issues with the 2010s that I should be aware of?

Thanks.
 
The first year for the RT Ltd was in 2011, and they were all pearl white in colour so it cannot be a Ltd if it is a 2010 model year. It could be a Premier Edition. What colour is it?

SilverFox
 
>>The first year for the RT Ltd was in 2011, and they were all pearl white in colour so it cannot be a Ltd if it is a 2010 model year. It could be a Premier Edition. What colour is it? <<

It is solid black. For 2010 NADA only lists 3 RT models with standard transmission: RT SM5, RT SM5 Audio/Convenience, and RT S SM5, no Premier, LTD or anything else. The NADA also shows an LTD model for 2011-2016 and an SPCL (Special?) for 2015-2016.
 
You have a 2010 RTS SM5, as the others have said they didn't add the limited until later. If you have fog lights, and chrome on the rear trunk lid along with stereo, passenger heated grips and analog gauges for fuel and temp then you have the RTS.

That is a good model, I had the exact one and put 59,000 miles on mine. If you purchase it you should consider adding a BajaRon anti sway bar, and possibly upgrading the front shocks. Don't ride with the windshield in the bottom most position as it causes stress on the windshield supports and there were prone to cracking. Keeping it an inch or so from the bottom position should eliminate that problem.

Check the VIN on the BRP site and make sure that the DPS was changed under the recall of October 2010. You may need to give the VIN to a dealer and have them run it to see if the recall has been completed.
 
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:welcome:
The first couple of models years for the RTs had difficulties with their throttle body systems. Have a Can Am Dealer run the V.I.N, and it'll tell you what sort of warranty work has been done on it.
 
I was the proud owner of a 2010 RTS Premier Edition #474. I rode it 36,500 miles before trading off on a 2014 RT-S. My only issue was throttle body--which was re-programmed with a computer update.

Do some due diligence. Get the VIN and have an authorized dealer run it to make sure that all the required service has been done. Also, you will see what other things may have happened over the years. Better, would be to have the authorized dealer give it a once over to look for glitches.

New tires are recommended. Six year old tires are an accident waiting to happen. We had a person buy an older bike with low mileage and a tire exploded. $6,000 worth of damage to the :ani29:.

I would not hesitate to buy it if everything checks out. Any red flags or glitches--run away from that particular deal. There are a lot of used RT's out there.

:welcome: and please let us know how this works out for you.
 
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:welcome:
The first couple of models years for the RTs had difficulties with their throttle body systems. Have a Can Am Dealer run the V.I.N, and it'll tell you what sort of warranty work has been done on it.

Never had a throttle body issue with my SM and I don't recall hearing of anyone that had the issue with the SM.
 
:dontknow: I can't tell you why... the method of engaging the engine to the transmission shouldn't affect fuel delivery at all... :dontknow:
Not all of the early bikes were affected, and I guess that you got lucky! :D
 
I had a beloved 2010 RT.
IMHO because they were the first off the line they were built better with more attention to detail than subsequent years.
They had their growing pains to be sure.

But all in all if the dealer can verify the updates and the Spyder looks well cared for, go for it.
 
If Possible- Get the 2012 version- No throttle body problems-No windshield mount cracking-Came with Iridium Plugs which Could Last up to 35,000 Miles or more. Best Model as far as Fewer Problems compared to the 2010-2011 Models?
 
Thanks for all of the replies and advice. As it turns out I found a 2013 RT-S with only 4700 miles a couple of hundred miles away, and brought it home yesterday. Very clean and well kept. The heat recall is still outstanding and the local dealer ordered the necessary parts today. Obviously it handles much differently than my V-twin and there is a learning curve there, especially in the twisties. It seems to be happiest at 4K+ rpm which is way higher than a 100CI V-twin. Again, learning curve.

The analog gas gauge seems to be way off. I've added gas three times with indicated <1/4th tank and each time took only about 3 gal. Next fill up I'm going to track with the trip meter which I used more than the gas gauge on my Nomad. What mileage should I expect at highway cruise?


Bob
 
figure about 30 mpg and you should be pretty safe . these things hold a little over 6 gallon. my fuel light will come on at about 120 miles. at 165 miles I can put just a fuzz under 5 gallon in it. only fill until the pump kicks off. don't try to "top" it off.
 
The analog gas gauge seems to be way off. I've added gas three times with indicated <1/4th tank and each time took only about 3 gal. Next fill up I'm going to track with the trip meter which I used more than the gas gauge on my Nomad. What mileage should I expect at highway cruise?

Fuel economy has been our only disapointment, we just picked up a '13 RT-S three weeks ago.



All of our riding is on rural highways and interstates, predominantly between 60-75 MPH. Only one tank above 30 MPG, and we've decided to name it "Thir$ty".
 
Fuel economy has been our only disapointment, we just picked up a '13 RT-S three weeks ago.



All of our riding is on rural highways and interstates, predominantly between 60-75 MPH. Only one tank above 30 MPG, and we've decided to name it "Thir$ty".

I like the name, good choice! Have you read the notes for New Owners on this website? I started the same way, studied the notes and now I never have a tank below 30 sometimes over 32. This ticker like revs, keep them higher and your mileage will increase. I don't know why but it works, call it Maple Flag Magic. When I first started the changes, I would shift at 25, 38, 48, 58 because the tach was at about 5K. Now, after about a year, I am shifting closer to 6K and "Joshua" seems to prefer it. Just saying!

Joe
 
I like the name, good choice! Have you read the notes for New Owners on this website? I started the same way, studied the notes and now I never have a tank below 30 sometimes over 32. This ticker like revs, keep them higher and your mileage will increase. I don't know why but it works, call it Maple Flag Magic. When I first started the changes, I would shift at 25, 38, 48, 58 because the tach was at about 5K. Now, after about a year, I am shifting closer to 6K and "Joshua" seems to prefer it. Just saying!

Joe

Thanks Joe! Folks on here have told me that, and I tried it for a tank-and-a-half. The full tank was 25.2 MPG was in 4th gear at 62 MPH the whole time. Since going back to 5th gear for cruising I'm back in the 28s. I don't get it, but it's no big deal. Nobody buys a Spyder to be frugal, and so far we're quite happy with it. :yes:
 
Thanks for all of the replies and advice. As it turns out I found a 2013 RT-S with only 4700 miles a couple of hundred miles away, and brought it home yesterday. Very clean and well kept. The heat recall is still outstanding and the local dealer ordered the necessary parts today. Obviously it handles much differently than my V-twin and there is a learning curve there, especially in the twisties. It seems to be happiest at 4K+ rpm which is way higher than a 100CI V-twin. Again, learning curve.

The analog gas gauge seems to be way off. I've added gas three times with indicated <1/4th tank and each time took only about 3 gal. Next fill up I'm going to track with the trip meter which I used more than the gas gauge on my Nomad. What mileage should I expect at highway cruise?


Bob

The analog gas gauge is not an accurate method of determining fuel in the tank. Use the trip meter for that determination. Set to zero at each fill up and fill to the same level each time. You will begin to see when to expect the refill light to come on and based on the gallons you put in, you can determine mileage. I think your tank is 6.2 gallons--but you will never get than much in during a fill. :thumbup:
 
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