Questions - getting ready to try changing my own brake pads.

[teninospyder]

I apologize for any repeats of information here, but I'm about to tackle replacing the brake shoes on our 2014 RTL SE6 (21000 miles on originals) and I'm still not clear on a few simple things. In the shop manual they show the front cylinder pistons being moved in as we have done many times on cars - by pushing them back with a screw driver or some other tool like that. The point here being......they don't mention having to "turn in the piston" as oppose to pushing it in. From what I've read on this site, I thought the pistons used now needed to be "screwed in". Is the back different maybe, seeing as the manual isn't very clear there either. :dontknow:

I think getting the pistons back is my biggest concern. I certainly don't want to end up having to get it to a dealer because the pistons are stuck by something I did or didn't do. If turning it in is necessary on all wheels, is there a tool (like a spanner wrench) made for this ??

any comments appreciated. Anyone know of any helpful videos out there too?

 

[SpyderAnn01]

On the front you just press, it is the rear that is tricky.

 

[teninospyder]

Then I'll do the fronts tomorrow !!

On the front you just press, it is the rear that is tricky.

Great :yes:

 

[Chupaca]

Congrats....

Good to see you venturing into the dig world. Relax take your time and all will be fine. On the rear brake a needle nose pliers will make it easy to retract the piston though you will need to release the park brake and possibly disconnect the cable depending on wear and adjustment. :thumbup:

 

[2dogs]

SpyderAnn's husband posted a short concise step by step instructions on replacing the rear pads. It's been some time back but if you search his threads I'm sure you can find it. If you ask maybe he'll repost it. Squared Away are great folks.

 

[ahh-cool]

Leave the brake pad in on the side of the piston. Use a big "C" clamp and retract the piston

 

[teninospyder]

You're just talking for the front brakes right?

Leave the brake pad in on the side of the piston. Use a big "C" clamp and retract the piston

Yes, I do that on other vehicles as well. Here you are just talking about the front brakes, correct? For 2014 at least, I had always read here that the rear is the "twist" kind.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

TOOL

Yes, I do that on other vehicles as well. Here you are just talking about the front brakes, correct? For 2014 at least, I had always read here that the rear is the "twist" kind.

I'm sure you can find one of these at most Auto Parts stores .... I actually bought mine at a Flea Market :roflblack: ..... the tool has hardened pins that are adjustable for the spread of the holes in the brake cylinder .... it looks like a sling shot .... works very well ...... I have thought that maybe the tool used for locking and un-locking a 4 /2 angle grinder might work also ... But I haven't tried it yet ........... For the rear Brake if you can have a helper that can hold the brake assembly while you turn the cylinder ....the job will 200% easier .... unless you are an Octopus :dontknow: ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[PW2013STL]

Yes, I do that on other vehicles as well. Here you are just talking about the front brakes, correct? For 2014 at least, I had always read here that the rear is the "twist" kind.

You are correct - fronts only Do Not Use A C-Clamp on your rear as that is a screw back in piston.

I have used a neadle nose plyers in the past, but found it difficult to do so. What I have done is take a 1/2" x 6" piece of alum and drilled and taped for two small screws (the same size as the indents in the piston. This allows me better leverage to turn the piston back.
Others have taken a socket that when placed over the two indents crosses the center of the indents and then ground away leaving two points that fit into the indents.

As for the front calipers. I have been able to push them back with my fingers and did not need a C-clamp.

Also you should remove the two fill caps on the rear master cyclinder and place clean paper towels around the openings to catch any brake fluid that my come out from pushing the Pistons back. Be sure to check and fill if needed with new Dot 4 brake fluid.
I find that propping the seat up higher by disconnecting the seat strut helps with filling those.

 

[Bfromla]

:lecturef_smilie:When removing the calipers there is a spring clip on one of the bolts. (Only on one bolt of each caliper) Can be ez to miss if there is any crud built up, & the bolt will turn enough to pull clip into housing & screw up threads if you don't remove it first :yikes:.
Pic of my deformed one from just that I got lucky & didn't do any other damage other than warping the pin, but was very aggravating with a bolt that would just spin & not come out. Thankfully I had a bud there to assist & with a clearer mindset to look again:firstplace: saved my bacon :bowdown: & & of course BaJaRon for the pads

 

[teninospyder]

Thanks - More good info for me.

:lecturef_smilie:When removing the calipers there is a spring clip on one of the bolts. (Only on one bolt of each caliper) Can be ez to miss if there is any crud built up, & the bolt will turn enough to pull clip into housing & screw up threads if you don't remove it first :yikes:.
Pic of my deformed one from just that View attachment 157563 I got lucky & didn't do any other damage other than warping the pin, but was very aggravating with a bolt that would just spin & not come out. Thankfully I had a bud there to assist & with a clearer mindset to look again:firstplace: saved my bacon :bowdown: & & of course BaJaRon for the pads

OK, thanks....Interesting that the manual doesn't mention this kind of stuff at all.......that I see anyway.

 

[teninospyder]

My helper says "Thanks Mike"........

QUOTE=BLUEKNIGHT911;1334281]I'm sure you can find one of these at most Auto Parts stores .... I actually bought mine at a Flea Market :roflblack: ..... the tool has hardened pins that are adjustable for the spread of the holes in the brake cylinder .... it looks like a sling shot .... works very well ...... I have thought that maybe the tool used for locking and un-locking a 4 /2 angle grinder might work also ... But I haven't tried it yet ........... For the rear Brake if you can have a helper that can hold the brake assembly while you turn the cylinder ....the job will 200% easier .... unless you are an Octopus :dontknow: ..... Mike :thumbup:[/QUOTE]

My "Soul mate for life" has been with me on many other ventures like this during all of our 34 years together and....assuming I can keep my cool during the entire process....I'm sure she will help me here :yes: To start I'll just tell her it can't be as bad as when she had to lay on the garage floor and we pulled the greasy oily transmission out of an old 1980 CJ7 to rebuild it :roflblack:

Thanks for the input.

 

[teninospyder]

One more question on replacing brake pads

My master cylinder is completely full and my pads are at minimum or below 1mm. Anyone know how much fluid I should remove before pushing the pistons (front and rear) back in, to avoid unwanted fluid outside the master cylinder ?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BRAKE FLUID

My master cylinder is completely full and my pads are at minimum or below 1mm. Anyone know how much fluid I should remove before pushing the pistons (front and rear) back in, to avoid unwanted fluid outside the master cylinder ?

I did mine last year, didn't remove any .....just opened the caps, and checked if it was increasing to much ....it didn't .......... considering how much fluid is in the system, the amount that retracting the cylinders will cause is really pretty small ......... but like I said after you move one check the level ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[teninospyder]

Think I lucked out......or I'm really in trouble.

I did mine last year, didn't remove any .....just opened the caps, and checked if it was increasing to much ....it didn't .......... considering how much fluid is in the system, the amount that retracting the cylinders will cause is really pretty small ......... but like I said after you move one check the level ......Mike :thumbup:

OK, decided "what am I waiting for", and went out to the Spyder to do the front pads and see how that would go. Probably overthinking all the way, I pulled the left wheel and observed what I could see of the pads. I couldn't believe what I was seeing after 21,000 miles, so I got as good a picture as I could of the outer pad but didn't have much luck on seeing the inner. What I could see looked like it "might" be the same as the outer. After debating with myself for a while, I pulled the left caliper completely to fully view the situation.

BOTH of the pads still showed the complete wear strips and somewhere around +/- 2mm more lining !! Not wanting to have to open up the left one again if in fact the right one was worn more, I removed the right wheel and caliper at this point and found similar results !!!

Decided at this time I am NOT replacing the front pads :yes::yes::clap:
So what kind of mileage are others getting on the fronts ??

 

[rtlister]

what about "turning" the disc rotors?

As some of you probably know, with a car or truck disc brake, if the rotors get warped or grooved, the discs can be put on a lathe that shaves off the uneven surface. I've had this done many times with my cars or trucks through the years. Of course, you don't need to have them cut more than once or the discs get too thin. The question I have is can these Spyder disc be "turned" (shaved)?

 

[pegasus1300]

My 1st response is to say no as I have never done that on a motorcycle brake. There usually is not enough rotor to be able to mill any off without puting it undersize. If it is that bad replace it with a new disc from BajaRon.