• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Question regarding drive belt adjustment ( Quick respnse needed )

Ex-Rocket

Well-known member
I have a 2015 RTS and the drive belt since new has always been real close to the inside flange. Well the belt started making a rubbing sound which was noticeable at very slow speeds. I couldn't hear it at highway speeds. Noticed belt was up against the inside flange and that was where the rubbing sound was coming from. Well I'm now in the process of loosening the axle nut and adjusting the 2 whatever you call them, to get the belt away from the inside flange. I used small adjustments and took my time and finally got the belt away from the inside flange on the rear wheel.

Well here's my question. When I spin the rear tire the belt doesn't track exactly straight. What I mean is, the belt will be about 1 mm from the inside flange and then as the wheel is rotated the gap between the belt and flange is maybe 3 or 4 mm away from the flange. So the belt gap is changing as the wheel is rotated. I'm spinning the wheel by hand with the axle nuts loose. Do I need to need to tighten the axle and then check to see if the belt is still wondering that same 1 to 4 mm difference? Or is this a normal thing to have the belt wondering as the wheel is rotated? Thanks
 
Spinning the wheel with it off the ground will give different results than when you are riding. Bring your wrenches with you and ride on a straight road. Stop often and adjust the belt in small increments until it is reasonably consistent.
 
Tough one...

I find adjusting the belt time consuming at best. You need to rotate the tire in both directions about 10 turns. You may be on the money going forward and then backwards the belt will walk and inch off the flange and off the edge. Now playing with finding the right spot will mess up your tension so try to get the tension right using the left adjuster and and alignment with the right one. The other issue comes when you torque the axel nut. So double check when your done. Never tried it as mentioned above by going out on the road and doing it. Sounds sound...:thumbup:
 
I've probably spent the vast majority of my Spyder Maintenance Time trying to get belt tracking and adjustment right.
You have to remember that tracking is only part of the belt equation.
Belt tension changes with the tracking.

I'm not sure which one is more important.

There are a lot of theories on belt tension and even though I do have the Gates Sonic Meter I usually give up and use
the method that Scotty(Nancystoy) recommended.

And that is go to the middle of the belt and twist it 90 degrees between your thumb and finger.
If it takes a lot of effort it is too tight.
 
Well I want to thank all that replied. I found out that tightening of the axle nuts does through everything you worked for the last hour out the window. I had the belt out to the outer edge at one time.:yikes::yikes::yikes: After trial and error I think I got the belt aligned properly. Why didn't they put a chain on this thing????:banghead::banghead: I'm going to take a short spin soon and see now it tracks. Wish me luck.
 
Back
Top