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Question on sway bar hiem joints?
- Thread starter Riker
- Start date
Chupaca
New member
It's a choice...
if you are happy with the handling of your roadster your fine. You have already upgraded and I can't say I have seen many comments on that bar vs the BajaRon bar. The hiem joints I would change just because composits/plastics tend to get brittle with age and there are cases where they have failed. Most of what you read id from stock to the BajaRon....:thumbup:
if you are happy with the handling of your roadster your fine. You have already upgraded and I can't say I have seen many comments on that bar vs the BajaRon bar. The hiem joints I would change just because composits/plastics tend to get brittle with age and there are cases where they have failed. Most of what you read id from stock to the BajaRon....:thumbup:
BajaRon
Well-known member
I had one of the Evoluzion sway bars on my Spyder when I started making my sway bars. Honestly, I didn't think I'd notice any difference when I switched them out. But I did. He must have used a lower tensile strength steel on his bars.
The other thing I discovered, which I never noticed when I installed the Evoluzion bar, was that the bends and arm lengths were not symmetrical.
As far as the Billet Aluminum Link sets go, they are not so much a performance enhancement as they are bullet proof insurance against breakage.
Though the OEM links have held up well for many, plastic is still plastic. If it fails it may well fail when you need it most. The OEM links have failed with both the stock sway bars and with my sway bars.
The other thing I discovered, which I never noticed when I installed the Evoluzion bar, was that the bends and arm lengths were not symmetrical.
As far as the Billet Aluminum Link sets go, they are not so much a performance enhancement as they are bullet proof insurance against breakage.
Though the OEM links have held up well for many, plastic is still plastic. If it fails it may well fail when you need it most. The OEM links have failed with both the stock sway bars and with my sway bars.
JerryB
New member
Hi Ron,
Re: If it fails it may well fail when you need it most.
OK, this is for you. When I bought my swaybar from you earlier this year ( '08 SE5 ) I asked about the metal links. And you said that I did not need them.
Have you changed your mind?
I'm not arguing, just wondering.
Jerry Baumchen
Re: If it fails it may well fail when you need it most.
OK, this is for you. When I bought my swaybar from you earlier this year ( '08 SE5 ) I asked about the metal links. And you said that I did not need them.
Have you changed your mind?
I'm not arguing, just wondering.
Jerry Baumchen
Dan McNally
New member
Ron never said someone NEEDS them . . . The plastic ones have been known to break . . . the aluminum joints are just insurance.
900Dave
New member
:agree: And very cheap insurance.
spydaman60
New member
if you're changing the bar, bite the bullet and change the links! cheap insurance!!! I agree! just had both done by netzley tire.(accord, ny)
BajaRon
Well-known member
No argument taken. These are important questions and I hope this forum is the place to come for honest answers.
I have been in the process of changing my mind. I never want to push something onto customers that I feel is optional. The question is, are the links really optional?
In all of our testing we only had failures with the problematic 2013 recalled links. This was understandable since they were also failing at a high rate with the stock sway bar.
So I did a stress test on some good OEM plastic links to get a better idea of how much stress they can take. They stood up to loads beyond what my stiffest sway bar would exert. But though the plastic links did not fail this test, they did stretch. Of course they returned to their original length when the stress was revealed. But it left me wondering what the long term effects might be.
The second unanswered question is; How much variance is there in strength from one link to the next? Because some OEM links have broken with stock sway bars while most OEM links hold up well even with my stiffer bar installed.
The issue is, you don't know if your OEM links will hold up until you try them. If they break, then you know you should have replaced them. This is not a good way to find out and I know of no way to inspect the OEM links tol improve the situation.
If you have a 2008-2012 GS/RS/RSS bar, it is the least likely to be a problem for the OEM links. All the other bar kits put more stress on the links with the 2013/14 RT bar being the stiffest. That is why I now require that the 2013/14 bars be installed with my Billet Aluminum links. I don't want any link failures so I may expand this requirement to other bar sets.
At this point I am highly recommending my links. I want my products to be problem free and certainly failure free. Some have installed my link set with their stock OEM sway bar to avoid breakage.
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