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question for those who have a RT & F3

Many brands

New member
I have a RT, and always feel I am being thrown off on a 50-mph - curve. It is so tall. I wonder if it is - different sensation on a F3 ?
 
I have a RT, and always feel I am being thrown off on a 50-mph - curve. It is so tall. I wonder if it is - different sensation on a F3 ?

Anything is possible .... I've driven both at high speeds, in the Twistie's and didn't have the impression that I was being " thrown off ". .... But I've been riding various Spyder's since 09, about 150,000 mi. worth....... a bit of knee pressure may aleave that feeling ...... good luck .... Mike :ohyea:
 
Only you can answer that, your brain is thinking lean and get sucked into the seat in a curve, enter slow come out faster. not so with a Spyder. You create your own lean so to speak but it will never be the same as a two wheeler so your brain has to learn new tricks. The Spyder is faster in the curves going in and you create your own lean / style of lean in the curve. The F3 is lower and sits with your feet forward so the only one that knows how your brain will react to the different height and seating position is your brain. F3 is still 3 wheels and will not lean like a 2 wheeler but with your feet forward some like that feel better and feel more control of them self. You should try going to a dealer and test ride the new F3L if they have one. Always fun to window shop look around.
 
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What have you ridden before? The centrifugal force with a spyder on corners combined with the tendency of the spyder to roll away from the corner is quite alarming at first! Shifting your weight and leaning into the corner wil help a lot, I've fitted a Baja Ron's sway bar to mine which helps control the rolling away sensation. Upgraded front shocks are the ultimate fix (Elka, Fox, Shock Factory) but they're pricey! Play with tyre pressures as well. Try cornering hard in an empty parking lot where there is plenty of room to bottle out, it's surprising how it will turn. Time & Experience!! Good luck.
 
In addition to shifting your weight and leaning into the curve plant that outside foot as hard as you can on the floorboard.
 
Thanks for this thread.
I have many years on 2 wheels. New to Spyders, only about 120 miles, still trying to get my "sea legs". Haven't enjoyed it much especially on the twisties. Planning to put a couple of hundred on it today. Thanks for the nuggets of info.

BikerBeast...
 
I have a RT, and always feel I am being thrown off on a 50-mph - curve. It is so tall. I wonder if it is - different sensation on a F3 ?

That sensation is still felt on the F3, but much less than the RT in my opinion. This is based on the 2019 and older RT's that I've driven. I have not driven a 2020 RT yet.
I will say that you will eventually get more comfortable with that feeling. Lean to the inside of the corners as much as possible and push with your outside foot on the board.
 
Thanks for this thread.
I have many years on 2 wheels. New to Spyders, only about 120 miles, still trying to get my "sea legs". Haven't enjoyed it much especially on the twisties. Planning to put a couple of hundred on it today. Thanks for the nuggets of info.

BikerBeast...

It took me around 1000 miles to really get the hang of three wheels and lose some of my two wheeled habits. I now have Nanny kicking in regularly in the twisties to slow me down. It will come and you will enjoy the Spyder a lot.
 
Yes, there is a bit of a difference between the two. I have both a 2014 RT and just bought a 2019 F3.

You sit ON the couch on the RT. The F3 is more "cruiser" style, and I feel like I am sitting IN it. The cornering differences are night and day on a 50 mph curve.

Jay Bros post #5 covers how to do a curve best on a RT. I would add a couple things. If you have to brake going into a curve...you are going to fast. You will get more "g" forces that way.

You should be able to accelerate slightly while going through the curve. Entering the curve from the inside to the outside (apexing the curve), looking past the curve in your line of sight, lean slightly into the curve (it does reduce the "g" forces), and planting the outside foot on the floorboards all help.

Once mastered, you can do curves like this at 20+ posted without going over the yellow line or kicking in the nanny. I don't do 20+, and am mostly happy with 5 to 10 +.

The F3....seems more "nailed" to the curve with less g's.
 
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Not sure if you have the dreaded roundabouts in your area. If you do I recommend doing a bunch at higher and higher speeds. Drive it like you stole it! Worked for me. If you've ever done a 4 wheel drift in a car, you can do a 3 wheel drift with a Spyder RT. That's some serious fun!
 
Just by way of clarification as written English can be sooooooo ambiguous......Those saying “plant that foot hard on the outside board”, mean plant your foot hard on the outside board to push your body weight to the inside, not to shift any weight to the outside. ;)

Pete
 
Just by way of clarification as written English can be sooooooo ambiguous......Those saying “plant that foot hard on the outside board”, mean plant your foot hard on the outside board to push your body weight to the inside, not to shift any weight to the outside. ;)
Pete

I'm 6'-6" 260#s and you're larger than me, Hang way out and push with one hand and pull with the other, push down hard on the inside board clamping the glove box with your knees. Clamping makes you feel more attached to the Spyder and makes steering easier since you're not feeling like a death grip on the handlebars just to hang on. Downshift at least one gear going into the turn, 12:1 compression ratio will slow you considerably and you'll be able to just back off the throttle, and then GET BACK ON IT TO SHOOT OUT OF CORNER. And don't look at the center-line(you'll go right to it), keep eyes focused as far away as you can see. Oh, and don't hit the brakes while you're already in the corner, that tends to change the inertia that'll wake up the SLEEPING NANNY, just downshift with throttle still off.
 
No, that hasn't changed, Basically, I'm saying clamp onto bike with your legs, it stabilizes your torso, you still have to lean into the curve. Clamping on allows your arms to relax a little which makes it easier to steer since you're not needing to hold on for dear life. Try it, it makes twisties much more fun when you don't feel like you're going to be thrown off.
 
I bought a Ryker 600 last Aug. and have always felt comfortable and in control. I attributed the secure feeling while riding with the footpegs being far forward and sitting low. Months later I started shopping for a second machine and rode a few older RT's etc. with their footpegs mounted more central to the bike. I just couldn't get over how insecure I felt. Then I rode a 2015 f3s with the pegs forward and all was good again. I have the left peg at hole # 4 and the right side at # 3 because I haven't gotten around to changing the brake rod yet. Heck I may never bother. So for me, the ability to plant my feet on the ground at a stop and stretched out in front makes all the difference in the world.
 
I wasn't comfortable with the leaning out, "tippy" feeling of the RT. On the F3T, I was pretty much instantly comfortable. As it's already been stated, it's a matter of sitting "on" vs. "in" the two different models.
 
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