I'm getting ready to do my 3K oil change on my 2009 SE, and Lamont's step-by-step guide made it very easy-- so far. The drain plugs seem as if someone welded them in place. Just wondering if any of you experienced tight plugs, and how you removed them. First, I know I need to go to Sears or somewhere and get a GOOD 6mm hex wrench. Mine (a cheap one, of course) has already started to become rounded by just trying to loosen the plugs. I guess I'm just scared that the plug will strip, not the wrench. :bowdown:
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Question for do-it-yourself oil changers . . .
- Thread starter opticat
- Start date
SpyderGirl
New member
Just be careful not to strip out the bolts for the filter, I did that with the lower bolt and haven't been able to change my filter for about 5500 miles. I'm going to try to extract it at the next oil change. I asked around and everyone said I should be okay to let the filter go that long especially running full synthetic, however I wouldn't recommend doing this all the time. 
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Hammer (lightly) a slightly larger star bit into it while trying to loosen it. Maybe a long socket extension with Vice Grips to turn it?
Just be careful not to strip out the bolts for the filter, I did that with the lower bolt and haven't been able to change my filter for about 5500 miles. I'm going to try to extract it at the next oil change. I asked around and everyone said I should be okay to let the filter go that long especially running full synthetic, however I wouldn't recommend doing this all the time.
bone crusher
Alignment Specialist
It's probably like that so people will be discouraged from changing it on their own. Smart for BRP and their dealerships...pain in the butt for those owners who want to change their own oil...
Donzo
New member
Both of the drain plugs were super tight on my Spyder also.
You can use a large visegrip attached to the end of the Allen wrench to get the added leverage - just take your time and make sure the key is fully inserted while applying increasing pressure till it breaks loose. Also tapping the visegrip while applying pressure could help...good luck! Been there done that :sour:
You can use a large visegrip attached to the end of the Allen wrench to get the added leverage - just take your time and make sure the key is fully inserted while applying increasing pressure till it breaks loose. Also tapping the visegrip while applying pressure could help...good luck! Been there done that :sour:
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
If you're going to save money by changing your own oil you might as well spend the money on some good tools to do it with. Get yourself a 3/8" drive allen socket with a long handle ratchet and it should some right out. It is a good idea to warm up the motor first.:doorag:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
:agree: And a good torque wrench doesn't hurt, either, especially if you haven't worked on enough of this stuff to have developed a "feel" for it. Easy to strip alloy threads if you try too hard, and you can have leaks if you don't try hard enough.
-Scotty
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
Your right about the feel thing but I know more people who have stripped out threads or broken bolts because of a torque wrench than those who have because they didn't use one.
If you set it to foot pounds instead on inch pounds or you have a bad or cheap China torque wrench you would be better off without it.nojoke
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I absolutely agree! You also have to back off the spring-loaded ratcheting variety type when you aren't using them. If not backed off completely, the spring can take a set, then give you a false reading. I always check mine against a beam-type wrench before I use them.
-Scotty
Got it done, guys, and thanks for the encouragement. The trick for the drain plugs was the 6-mm socket with the 3/8 drive. NAPA store, 6 bucks. A regular 5-mm allen wrench sufficed for the filters. Total cost with 4 quarts of BRP oil (already had 1/2 quart), crush washers, one "O" ring, transmission filter, and oil filter came to, with tax, $105.57. No leaks so far, took about an hour and a half, and it was kinda fun. :clap:
SpyderGirl
New member
Yeah, that's pretty much the plan I had. I hope it works cuz it's the one on the bottom that is nearly impossible to get at and difficult to get enough leverage to get it off. I'd like to find something else to replace them from ACE hardware or something because they strip so easily. I'm thinking replacing them after every oil change might not be a half-bad idea. It's better than the headache later on.
Anyone else have any other ideas about this ordeal?
Roger
New member
I have an idea that may help go to the auto parts store and pick up a bottle of anti seaze. after you get the plug out clean it then put some of this stuff on there it will seal the and the next time you take it out you wont have that problem we use it when building engine blocks. not sure of the spelling of the stuff but that is what it's called. also when using this stuff where rubber gloves if you get it on you it's very difficult to get off. hope this helps. :read:
SpyderGirl
New member
That's a good idea.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Be careful with this idea. A drain plug needs to stay put, and an inadequately torqued plug, or a plug without a fresh crush washer, treated with anti-sieze, could easily loosen and dump your oil on the ground, not to mention in front of your rear tire. Awkward, to say the least.
-Scotty
speedster200
New member
We never pop drain plugs. We suck the oil out through the dip stick hole.
Stripped plugs cost time and money.:clap:
Stripped plugs cost time and money.:clap:
QuadManiac
New member
But you never get to the magnetic plug and see if there's any ferrous particles collecting. I, for one, want to see if there's anything there.
