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Pulling rear tire

Torque

It does say 155 to 177, but for a threaded tube axle, seems excessive. The 2012 and older were 95 foot pounds. Solid motorcycle axles are typically 90-100. I am having the dealer inquire on the dealer forum. The tech here just ignores the spec, and tightens by feel. Typical beam torque wrenches only go to 140 ft lbs, as does my click wrench. Very odd it would go up 50 pounds!
 
It does say 155 to 177, but for a threaded tube axle, seems excessive. The 2012 and older were 95 foot pounds. Solid motorcycle axles are typically 90-100. I am having the dealer inquire on the dealer forum. The tech here just ignores the spec, and tightens by feel. Typical beam torque wrenches only go to 140 ft lbs, as does my click wrench. Very odd it would go up 50 pounds!

I'd get a new tec....by feel??????... what dumb tec...
 
That's why he suggested using tape to mark the location.[/QUOTE...He's also suggesting He touch and fiddle around with the AXEL ADJUSTERS .......If they are OK ....I say leave well enough alone ......Why adjust something that doesn't need adjustment .....Sorry but I don't see the logic in that !!!!....................Mikeguyver :thumbup:


Id have to agree w this if the adjusters actually stay put. Why mess w the alignment if it was good before?

Why go through realignment each time you change a tire?

.
 
Belt is tracking good. Good tension. Thought I would check it with my cricket before pulling so that tension could be matched on reassembly if needed. I was also wondering about that 155 ft.lb. torque. I rarely go over 100 ftlbs on solid bolts in car engines. I would think 100 would plenty and no way would I trust by feel. I am fabricating a set of highway pegs this weekend and will address the tire next week. If anyone know what the correct amount of Ride-On sealer/balancer I should put in the rear tire, the info would be appreciated. I figured 2 bottles for the rear and 1/2 per wheel for the fronts.
 
Id have to agree w this if the adjusters actually stay put. Why mess w the alignment if it was good before?

Why go through realignment each time you change a tire?

.
Because I can! LOL! Actually, it is simple to check, and makes it ride better.
The local tech agreed with me on the torque. I tighten by feel, then check with the torque wrench. I am usually within a pound or two. 155 is crazy high. Ann is on her 3rd tire, since February, and counting her initial alignment, it have assembled her rear axle four times @ 95ft#, and have had no issues. I will wait on a real answer, as they have been wrong before!
 
here is where I see a problem -- it is recommended you get a lazer alignment -- however when changing the rear tire -- that can be thrown off -- and it needs to be redone

I haven't had to change the tires yet but I have read this and it seems that some good ideas are flowing around regardinggetting the rear to track straight according to the belt.

when doing the alignment -- is the belt checked for tracking?
 
Belt is tracking good. Good tension. Thought I would check it with my cricket before pulling so that tension could be matched on reassembly if needed. I was also wondering about that 155 ft.lb. torque. I rarely go over 100 ftlbs on solid bolts in car engines. I would think 100 would plenty and no way would I trust by feel. I am fabricating a set of highway pegs this weekend and will address the tire next week. If anyone know what the correct amount of Ride-On sealer/balancer I should put in the rear tire, the info would be appreciated. I figured 2 bottles for the rear and 1/2 per wheel for the fronts.

One 16 oz bottle Ride-On for rear tire.
13 oz Ride-On for each front tire.
Agree 100 ft #'s rear axel nut. Make sure right side adjustment screw stays tight forward as you are tightening axel nut.
I tap axel nut forward on right side as I am tightening it, to keep belt alignment the same.
A few years ago Lamont recommended removing lower rear shock bolt so you don't have to re-align belt after changing rear RT tire, (and also disconnecting top bolt for air sensor lever).
My 2014 RT belt tension is 230 on cricket (as a reference).
Jim
 
here is where I see a problem -- it is recommended you get a lazer alignment -- however when changing the rear tire -- that can be thrown off -- and it needs to be redone

I haven't had to change the tires yet but I have read this and it seems that some good ideas are flowing around regardinggetting the rear to track straight according to the belt.

when doing the alignment -- is the belt checked for tracking?

Yes. The Rolo system uses the rear tire as a base, so it is checked/aligned first. Since tire pressure is critical, we do that at the same time. As I mentioned, it is easy and well worth the few minutes it takes to do.
 
here is where I see a problem -- it is recommended you get a lazer alignment -- however when changing the rear tire -- that can be thrown off -- and it needs to be redone

I haven't had to change the tires yet but I have read this and it seems that some good ideas are flowing around regardinggetting the rear to track straight according to the belt.

when doing the alignment -- is the belt checked for tracking?

Good point of discussion.

You should be looking at your belt tracking as a point of a pre-ride and during ride inspections.
If you stop for a gas fill or a water break on a ride glance at the belt tracking.
If you go to a dealer and demo ride a spyder and notice the belt is not tracking correctly and the dealer says they all do this... Consider finding another dealer to buy from... UNLESS you are going to be doing your own maintenance.

If you are going to be pulling your own rear wheel for a tire change you should be capable of getting the belt alignment back in check by one means or another. I cant speak for a 2014 but on both our 2010 RT and our 2013 ST the only way I can get the belt to track exactly where I want it to track, is by adjusting then riding and checking. I tried on both of these spyders, repeatedly, to set belt alignment with it jacked up and found that to not be what I needed on these two spyders.

Also important to note, if you constantly monitor your belt tracking you may be alerted to changes in your spyder that need attention.
After many thousands of miles our RT belt tracking changed on its own independent of any work on the rear wheel.
Shortly thereafter I found the bearing had spun in the rear hub and I needed to do some major maintenance.

You should also be checking your tire pressure on a regular basis. Don't rely on someone else to do this for you.
Get yourself a good digital pressure gauge and use it...regularly... One came with the spyders through 2013 in the tool kit. Have seen some 2014 tool kits without one. (did BRP stop including?)

When coming to an event and visiting Precisyon Trac to get a laser alignment you should have your belt tracking true and also have the proper tire pressures, We aren't your momma!!
If you want us to do these items outside of an event that can be arranged. However, at the events we like to concentrate on alignments and get everyone done.
 
It does say 155 to 177, but for a threaded tube axle, seems excessive. The 2012 and older were 95 foot pounds. Solid motorcycle axles are typically 90-100. I am having the dealer inquire on the dealer forum. The tech here just ignores the spec, and tightens by feel. Typical beam torque wrenches only go to 140 ft lbs, as does my click wrench. Very odd it would go up 50 pounds!

Agreed. It seems crazy tight. Most motorcycle axles use "rolled threads", which I would be willing to bet BRP does also. That method of manufacturing does not allow for high torque values.
 
20140828_115536.jpg
Here is my $85 Michelin Hydroedge from Amazon. I really like the diagonal channels formed in it. It should push the water out of the way and reduce hydroplaning in wet conditions. Can't wait to get it mounted.
 
View attachment 94311
Here is my $85 Michelin Hydroedge from Amazon. I really like the diagonal channels formed in it. It should push the water out of the way and reduce hydroplaning in wet conditions. Can't wait to get it mounted.
Mine was delivered yesterday so my Tuesday project is to get the tire changed. Wish me fortune and luck in finding a tire shop to change it. There's only one within a mile, many within 30 miles, and the dealer is 50 miles. Don't know if the dealer will mount a car tire or not, haven't asked them!
 
Mine was delivered yesterday so my Tuesday project is to get the tire changed. Wish me fortune and luck in finding a tire shop to change it. There's only one within a mile, many within 30 miles, and the dealer is 50 miles. Don't know if the dealer will mount a car tire or not, haven't asked them!
Let us know how it goes!
 
YOU CAN THESE PEOPLE

Mine was delivered yesterday so my Tuesday project is to get the tire changed. Wish me fortune and luck in finding a tire shop to change it. There's only one within a mile, many within 30 miles, and the dealer is 50 miles. Don't know if the dealer will mount a car tire or not, haven't asked them!
....If you can't find a dealer to do it .....................find an independent Mtc. shop a place that deals with Harley's ( chopper's etc. ) they will have the ability to deal with the larger RIM .......Mikeguyver :thumbup:
 
Rear drive axle nut torque 210 N•m to 240 N•m (155 lbf•ft to 177 lbf•ft) page 164

2014 manual says the rear axel nut is to be 155 ft.# to 177 ft. # tight not 100 ft #

Not disputing what you've written, but HOLY SMOKES that is tight!!!!! :yikes:
2013 manual says 225 N-m, or 166 ft-lb.

Diameter has a direct bearing on torque values. You'd never put 166 ft-lb torque on a 3/8" bolt!:yikes: And on a 3" bolt 166 would barely snug it up!
 
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