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Pulling a wire, trunk to back - 2021 RTL

Mike0123

Member
Good morning,
I would like to pull a battery tender SAE connector from the battery, back to a place where the passenger could use it to plug in some heated gear when needed. Could someone point me to which panels I might need to pop off, and maybe a thread or instructions on how to get them off? Perhaps there’s a way to snake a wire part or all the way..? I just don’t know, so all opinions are welcome.

Thanks!
 
You probably can do it by removing the three easiest service panels shown in the OM. Run it from the battery up by the brake reservoir and then under the driver seat. Biggest challenge will likely be getting your hands down inside to zip tie the wire every so often so that it is our of harm's way and engine heat.

Most battery tender leads are fairly short so you likely will need to buy an extension or fabricate your own (make sure you use an inline fuse).
 
OK great. That sounds easy enough & I have a manual.
I also bought a fused 7' extension.
Good to go hopefully.

Thank you
 
Just the sides need to come off. The hardest part is routing from the battery to the side panel access thru the back side of the frunk. I used a wire hanger to snake a pull string.
 
I have run two lines from the battery to just under the seat. One is mainly used to run my battery trickle charger and the other to hook up to my wives heated vest. The charging cord can alos be used for my heated vest. Both have 6 and 7 foot extensions installed by Bull Dog battery. If you do it make sure you the proper polarity when spliced. Good luck.
 
Why not just plug into the 12V outlet in the trunk? It is most likely already protected by a fuse and much closer to the passenger than the battery. When I needed power to my GPS or phone between the handlebars, I just ran a 10' USB to mini USB cord tucked into some creases in the backrest padding then under the panels under the seat and finally up to the handlebars. It's neat clean and a no muss, no fuss installation. The only thing I really had to do to the Spyder was cut a small notch in the rim around the top of the trunk so the wire did not get pinched when the lid closed. I'm betting you could do something similar with a standard accessory plug with the proper connections for the heated gear on the other end. I'm sure someone will be horrified that water might get in there, but it all fits so well and is protected you would have to be driving in hurricane level down-pours to worry about that. I've driven in some pretty heavy rain with it like this and had no water get into my trunk.
 

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Why not just plug into the 12V outlet in the trunk? It is most likely already protected by a fuse and much closer to the passenger than the battery. When I needed power to my GPS or phone between the handlebars, I just ran a 10' USB to mini USB cord tucked into some creases in the backrest padding then under the panels under the seat and finally up to the handlebars. It's neat clean and a no muss, no fuss installation. The only thing I really had to do to the Spyder was cut a small notch in the rim around the top of the trunk so the wire did not get pinched when the lid closed. I'm betting you could do something similar with a standard accessory plug with the proper connections for the heated gear on the other end. I'm sure someone will be horrified that water might get in there, but it all fits so well and is protected you would have to be driving in hurricane level down-pours to worry about that. I've driven in some pretty heavy rain with it like this and had no water get into my trunk.

Check the fuse rating on that plug as most heated gear draws more amps than that. I run a separate fused wire that is 12 to 14 gage from the battery to a powerlet plug. This way I will not over burden the wiring, and since I cannot leave the Spyder an still be attached I'm not worried about draining the battery. If I have a possibility of having something that can be attached to it when I'm not there (heated seat) I run the same gage wire to a relay that is powered from a wire that is only powered when the bike is running. This safely provides the wattage needed without the possibility of draining the battery.
 
You don't need to mess about running a cable from the battery. The battery is directly connected to the main alternator terminal and the alternator is directly under the side panel which you need to remove anyway to route your cable. Just tap onto the main alternator out terminal. Saves a lot of hassle, keeps the cable run short and it's a good, sound connection point.
 
Check the fuse rating on that plug as most heated gear draws more amps than that. I run a separate fused wire that is 12 to 14 gage from the battery to a powerlet plug. This way I will not over burden the wiring, and since I cannot leave the Spyder an still be attached I'm not worried about draining the battery. If I have a possibility of having something that can be attached to it when I'm not there (heated seat) I run the same gage wire to a relay that is powered from a wire that is only powered when the bike is running. This safely provides the wattage needed without the possibility of draining the battery.

Granted, I have not checked the fuse rating on the plug in my trunk, but I do know it is not powered unless the bike is running. Mine is a 2014 RTL. Have no idea how the newer ones are wired. Then again, I'm only using mine to power a phone and occasionally a GPS. Since I retired, I avoid riding when it's cold enough to need heated gear--retirement is a good gig when you can get it. :ohyea:
 
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