Problem with hose clamp

[stgilmer]

Anybody else have alot of trouble with the clamp on the hose going onto the water pump?? The screw in mine seems to be working itself loose every 3-6 months, causing antifreeze to go all over. Is this a sign of the clamp going bad or just something I will always have to keep an eye on and make sure it is tight?
I have been tracking a leak for the last couple of days and after catching where it was coming from, the screw on the clamp turned 3 turns before real resistance showed up. Same situation back at the beginning of the summer, I should have know where to start looking first but didnt think about it. So just need to know if this is more common than I thought, or if a new clamp is needed. Thanks Guys & Gals..Merry Christmas to all.

 

[NancysToy]

It certainly can't hurt to try a new clamp. If that doesn't do the job, you may need a new hose. Often, a loose clamp is the result of a deteriorated (thus thinner) hose.

 

[wyliec]

More than one person here has had that same clamp come loose. I think any worm clamp needs to be checked periodically. That's where I also found my antifreeze leak.

I also had an oil leak on the cc hose connection that I installed; it too was a worm type clamp.

 

[boborgera]

I had the same leak, two years ago i Tighten the clamp added homemade sealer hasn't leaked since.
But if your clamp keeps loosing i would replace it with a new one.
Every now and a worm clamp will tighten just so far and then skip a notch.

 

[stgilmer]

I had the same leak, two years ago i Tighten the clamp added homemade sealer hasn't leaked since.

Where are you talking about putting sealer? edge of hose/on screw.

My hose doesnt appear worn down any, thought of getting some loctite around the screw to hold it in place after tightening/ Any thoughts on that??

 

[wyliec]

Where are you talking about putting sealer? edge of hose/on screw.

My hose doesnt appear worn down any, thought of getting some loctite around the screw to hold it in place after tightening/ Any thoughts on that??

You may want to be careful with loctite. I don't think it acts well if it gets on the rubber hose.

 

[boborgera]

Where are you talking about putting sealer? edge of hose/on screw.

My hose doesnt appear worn down any, thought of getting some loctite around the screw to hold it in place after tightening/ Any thoughts on that??

Old Mechanic [caveman] trick, Pepper in the radiator.
Not for the faint hearted. Just the fact the clamp keeps loosing i would change it. You might only need a 2 dollar clamp to stop the leak. :thumbup:

 

[stgilmer]

Just the fact the clamp keeps loosing i would change it. You might only need a 2 dollar clamp to stop the leak. :thumbup:

Ok this is probably a stupid question but here goes anyway. Can you get that clamp off without taking the hose loose and losing all the fluids?

 

[NancysToy]

Ok this is probably a stupid question but here goes anyway. Can you get that clamp off without taking the hose loose and losing all the fluids?

If it is a worm-screw type clamp, it can be backed off completely to loosen and remove it. If it is an Oetiker clamp, it will have to be cut off. A new Oetiker clamp would require draining the coolant and hose removal to replace it in kind...or you could replace it with a screw clamp without hose removal.

 

[boborgera]

Ok this is probably a stupid question but here goes anyway. Can you get that clamp off without taking the hose loose and losing all the fluids?

Yes
In your first post you mentioned that the lose clamp was a worm [screw]
clamp, so it can be removed with out taking off the hose or losing any fluid.
Of cause do it with a cold engine.

 

[ataDude]

Yes
In your first post you mentioned that the lose clamp was a worm [screw]
clamp, so it can be removed with out taking off the hose or losing any fluid.
Of cause do it with a cold engine.

But... only do it when the engine is cold and the cooling system is not pressurized.

.

 

[NancysToy]

But... only do it when the engine is cold and the cooling system is not pressurized.

.

Good point! BTW, it may drool some while you are changing clamps.

 

[stgilmer]

Great info guy, many thanks.

I have another one for you all, didn't see need in opening a new thread for it.

After tightening the screw back up, I ran it long enough for the rad. fan to come on twice. Problem is, the fan came on both times at 6 bars. I thought the fan came on at 5. I just happen to glance up at it while checking for any leaking and noticed it.:dontknow:

 

[wyliec]

Great info guy, many thanks.

I have another one for you all, didn't see need in opening a new thread for it.

After tightening the screw back up, I ran it long enough for the rad. fan to come on twice. Problem is, the fan came on both times at 6 bars. I thought the fan came on at 5. I just happen to glance up at it while checking for any leaking and noticed it.:dontknow:

I think when the spyder is actually moving you may see the fan turn on at 5 bars. Were you sitting just idling?

 

[Lamonster]

Great info guy, many thanks.

I have another one for you all, didn't see need in opening a new thread for it.

After tightening the screw back up, I ran it long enough for the rad. fan to come on twice. Problem is, the fan came on both times at 6 bars. I thought the fan came on at 5. I just happen to glance up at it while checking for any leaking and noticed it.:dontknow:

Should come on at five bars but without a temp gauge it's hard to say what temp your six bars is. :dontknow:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13512

 

[boborgera]

I think when the spyder is actually moving you may see the fan turn on at 5 bars. Were you sitting just idling?

:agree:You need some forward movement

 

[stgilmer]

Yeah it was actually sitting in the barn backed up to the door so the exhaust would go out. Like I said it just caught my eye that it went up to 6 so I let it keep running to make sure. Maybe I can get it out in the next few days and just make sure, pretty sure it was 5 back this past summer and it was a HOTT one.