• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Problem: SE5 sometimes not shifting out of first gear-

Bazeel

New member
Hey guys! I've had my 2012 RTS for about 3 months now, and haven't had a single problem with it until now. Recently, it has been having some intermittent problems shifting out of first gear. When I paddle up at my normal RPM range (about 5500 or thereabouts), the engine loses a lot of RPMs, sometimes down to about 3000 or so, causing the vehicle to slow rather aggressively. It will then jump back to the RPMs it should be at for the speed, without shifting to 2nd gear. It has happened twice so far, and all I have done to 'correct' it is pull over and cycle off/on the engine, and then it runs smoothly. I can't contact my dealer until Tuesday (due to operating hours), but I will be doing that right off. Has anyone else ever experienced this, or have any idea what is causing it? I'm still under factory warrantee for the next 4+ years, so I'm not too concerned. I also have 4K miles, if that helps. Thanks!
 
It sounds like you may have low oil. Have you checked your oil recently?--use the manual for the directions--as it is not a check the dipstick and all is well type of thing.

If it is not low oil, a trip to the dealer is recommended.

Let us know what you find.
 
If it turns out to be oil, what is best to use to top it off? I've only had the dealership do so, so I'm unsure of the brand.
 
If it turns out to be oil, what is best to use to top it off? I've only had the dealership do so, so I'm unsure of the brand.


Page 126 in your owners manual will give you specifics on non BRP oils, or purchase BRP's oil from your dealer.
 
Thanks. I am not with the bike atm, nor do I have the manual with me right now. I would have found it, but having a direct page number certainly helps. thanks again.
 
If it turns out to be oil, what is best to use to top it off? I've only had the dealership do so, so I'm unsure of the brand.

Lots of discussion around oil on the forum.

If you're satisfied with whatever BRP has put in their bottles during whatever production run your dealer happens to get then get it from your dealer. If you would prefer to know what's going into your machine, stand by. I'm sure you'll get a few recommendations.

For me, and others here, it's Amsoil. Some Royal Purple. For others it's... Ultimately your choice for your reasons as long as whatever it is satisfies the requirements outlined by BRP.
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
Didn't seem like it was exceedingly low, so I 'topped it off' just to make sure. I'll still be speaking with me dealer tuesday if it happens again, but we'll see! Thanks for all the info ladies and gents, I appreciate it a lot!
 
Your Spyder will burn Oil

You should be checking your oil every 500 miles. Even sooner in the HOT months. When we went to Owners event last year we traveled thru Cali and Nevada and encountered some extreme heat and went throught over a quart in the 1500 miles.
 
My 2011 rt does same thing took it to the shop and they reproduced the same results during test drives, hope you have better luck than I did they said BRP's response was that I was drag racing the bike and over revving it.I have just learned to slow down abit getting on the highway.:cus:
 
Back
Top