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Probably an old question... is it possible to fit an RT in a 6x8 trailer?

Dimensionally it should work. But I am not sure what cutting the front rail would do for the structural integrity of the trailer. The railing system adds strength to the entire trailer and cutting that out might not be a good idea. But to have someone weld back in a V shaped rail at the front might be an option. But then you are probably looking at close to the price of getting the 10' trailer.
 
I'm currently trying to figure my best options on modding my TSC 5x8 trailer. I 100% understand your dilemma. I already have a 5x8 TSC trailer and I'm a fabricator/welder. My 2016 RTS measures 61.5" Outside of both tires. (My 5' Trailer is 60" inside the rails.) Looking at the 6'x8', in my opinion you should be able to cut a section out for trunk and bags. I have a 25' motorhome and I can tow 5,000 lbs but I just don't want to drag a heavy (tow) vehicle and the Spyder will work and just like you I do not want to spend $2,000 for a trailer!

I'll see if I can't get started on my trailer and post a picture asap.
 
Hi I was thinking of doing the same thing. Went to Tractor Supply and took measurements and laid them out on graph paper and found that my F3s would fit. I too am concerned with structural stability. Still researching.
 
Photo

This image is a few years old from a Facebook group I am in, that I found while doing a little research. The concept seems sound, I don't think removing that bar effects to much of the structural integrity. It does not seem like it would cause too much to it, but I can also see the benefit of adding the welding out across the tongue, but not sure it would be worth it.
 

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The axle is pretty far back on that trailer, I wonder what the tongue weight ends up being. Tonque weight is great for stability towing, unit you do it with a smaller SUV.
 
ARSquatch, I would do just as it's shown in your photo attachment. The front railing is welded in 3 locations. I don't think you have anything to worry about. Because of the way these trailers are made, I would certainly check the weld locations to make sure they've been properly welded. Beyond that, I believe you've made a darn good choice for the $$$$. The only other way to go is to buy the kit trailer and assemble it yourself. The kit is just about half that price + shipping. Some kits are free shipping.
 
2dogs,

There are kits for trailers? Really? That might be something fun to do with the son in laws or maybe just a huge pain in the rear end. I didn’t know they sold kits, do you happen to have a Link?

Thanks

D Smith
 
2dogs,

There are kits for trailers? Really? That might be something fun to do with the son in laws or maybe just a huge pain in the rear end. I didn’t know they sold kits, do you happen to have a Link?

Thanks

D Smith

Here's where I ended up on a search regarding the subject of trailer kits appropriate for the size of a spyder. My intention was to make a tilting frame out of medium weight 2x2 square tube and wood 2x6's for the bed. Or just use formed channel the width of the tires.

https://thetrailerpartsoutlet.com/p...tXXYhNOu3SQ5XWzhgi7EZLGk4_Sgwz8xoCl_sQAvD_BwE
 
Looks like an 8 Ft trailer will work as you stated "click: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?113946-Best-Trailer-For-Hauling-Spyder to see some examples of 8 ft. trailers. I have a TS 5.5 X 10 ( 66 inch wide by 120 long ) trailer that I'm setting up now; TS puts them on sale from time to time for $1200.00 they have the better 15 inch wheels and tires. I'm putting 3 5ft e track rails down on the floor and have added a gate assist Gorilla lift. But the 8 Ft. can work too if you cut the center out.
 
lets see 30000 dollar machine 1000 dollar trailer and you want to cut out some of the structure

This ^ A trailer like that is for light duty hauling. Short runs to the big box store or loads of mulch. As was also mentioned, the axle is fairly far back and you don't have any leeway to position the bike to adjust for tongue weight. And you want to cut out part of the structure that makes it stiff.

Spend the money to get something rated for about 3500 lbs so you have a margin of error when that thing goes over a bump and all the weight comes down on the axle.
 
So is it possible for a 2015 RT to fit in a 6x8 Tractor Supply trailer and cutting the center beam out of the front of the trailer for the funk? So a 6x10 is an additional $500 bucks and we are trying to keep costs low since the trailer would only be used for moving and not much else?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...r-6-ft-x-8-ft-open-wood-floor-utility-trailer

Thanks for any input you guys.

ARSquatch

If you're going to haul the Spyder one time for moving, consider doing what I did. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?77075-My-trailer-solution-to-carry-Spyder. Gets the job done at a very reasonable cost. I posted the thread after I fixed the trailer to haul my 2013 Spyder to the local dealer but I also used it later to bring home my new-to-me 2014 Spyder from Bremerton, WA to Parma, ID.

The alternative would be to buy the 6 x 10 trailer, use it once, and then sell it after you get to your destination. From what I've read and heard you really won't lose much doing that.
 
TSC trailer for Spyder

I bought the TSC trailer you refer to for my 2014 RT. I ended up cutting the upper front bar so that the Spyder nose fit through the gap. I drive up the ramp with the nose tucking into the gap and front tires touching the bar. Strap it down, secure the ramp and you're off and running!

SpyderStephen

So is it possible for a 2015 RT to fit in a 6x8 Tractor Supply trailer and cutting the center beam out of the front of the trailer for the funk? So a 6x10 is an additional $500 bucks and we are trying to keep costs low since the trailer would only be used for moving and not much else?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...r-6-ft-x-8-ft-open-wood-floor-utility-trailer

Thanks for any input you guys.

ARSquatch
 
I got the 6x8 for my Ryker and modified the tail latch to give it a few more inches. As long as you have the bike strapped in properly it will do just fine.
 
All of this money spent on an expensive toy and then buying a REALLY cheap trailer makes no sense to me.

Modifying a trailer to change it's structure, by an amateur, is a Law suit just waiting to happen in this litigious society. IF something happened!

Always buy something BETTER than you actually need instead of settling for less.

I prefer 4 wheel trailers. If one tire blows out or if a bearing seizes and cuts the end of the axle plate off, there is the safety of another tire on the ground. (This happened to me once)

Craigslist has MANY new and used trailers for sale. Of course 'Chinafreight' does too.

And always carry a spare tire and speed wrench and a floor jack, just in case, because it will happen that you need it.

Sam:)
 
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