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Power Outlet not working

R

Rob Rodriguez

New member
When I bought my RS last year I had the dealer install a 12V plug in the frunk. It's the BRP plug. It worked fine all year and when I put the bike away last Nov. all was good. Today I removed the frunk and installed the Fox podium shocks and the Baja Ron swaybar. When I re-installed the frunk I plugged the wires back into the 12V plug. When I turned the key on I had no power in the plug. So I switched the wires on the back of the plug thinking I had them on the wrong terminals. The outlet still doesn't work. I checked the fuse and its fine. I'm stumped as to why it's not working. Do the actual plugs go bad? If the fuse is fine and the wiring in fine (it's the factory harness wiring) and I have the the wires connected to the plug then it would have to be an issue with the plug itself?

It just seems really odd to me it worked fine until I removed and then re-installed the wires. Any ideas?
 
Which number fuse are you running it from ? from what I have read previously on here 6 is only live when you put the ignition on and 7 is a permeant live, might be with checking both fuses as you could have blown it if you connected the wires round the wrong way to start with.
Just a thought.
 
Little checking..!!

By all means check all the fuses. Check with several cables to make sure it's not the cable your plugging in. I have to twist some of the to make good contact. Try both key on and key off. If the frunk was removed often those cable will be neglected and disconnected causing an ach and blowing the fuse. Switch the fuse for another. If you have a volt meter check the wires to the outlet and see if the are getting power. If wires were jerked off some connection can be damaged...hope it's simple...:gaah:
 
It is possible that the polarity was reversed and the devices you plugged into the outlet are already burnt out. Don't ask how I know this.
 
How are you testing it? I have a power outlet in my 13 RSS it doesn't have 12 volt supplied to it until it reaches I believe 2000 RPMS it doesn't have it at idle like the 12 models and older
 
billrob71 said:
How are you testing it? I have a power outlet in my 13 RSS it doesn't have 12 volt supplied to it until it reaches I believe 2000 RPMS it doesn't have it at idle like the 12 models and older
Click to expand...

There is something wrong. If the accessories fuse is the switched position. It will power up as soon as the key is turned on and turn off 20 t0 30 seconds after the key is turned off.
 
According to the tech at my dealer that how the 13s are designed at least on my RSS not sure about the RT's
Was told didn't matter which fuse was used . 13s were different
 
Thanks for all the thoughts.

I've tried with the key on and off and no power. I'm plugging a phone charger which has a light on it to see if its working. The charger works fine in my truck so it isn't blown after trying it. I haven't had time to get back to it and have a look. I did check all the fuses but I don't see any blown ones. I'm plugged into the switched wiring. I even tried starting it up and reving above 2000RPM and still nothing.

I'll figure it out. It's just one of those PITA things ;)
 
billrob71 said:
According to the tech at my dealer that how the 13s are designed at least on my RSS not sure about the RT's
Was told didn't matter which fuse was used . 13s were different
Click to expand...

Your tech is correct and the wiring of the accessories socket has been changed for 2013s. I just looked at the wiring diagram for the 2013 RS and it appears that I was incorrect in what I said earlier. I had assumed that all 2013s are the same. The accessories plug 2013 RS is wired differently from the ST and RT. It is switched only and controlled by a load shedding relay, intern controlled by the cluster. You say that the engine has to be running is logical.

Learned something today but the point is mute since the OPs RS is a 2012 by the info on his profile. If I remember correctly on and off with the key.
 
Yeah, mine is a 2012. I'll change out the fuse and see if that works. If not I'll have to buy a meter and test the terminals at the end of the wire and work my way from there. Worst case...............I need to have the dealer take a look. I did forget to unplug the wires when I pulled the frunk so they did get a little jerked (not bad, I was going slow) but it was enough to bend one of the terminals on the back of the plug a bit. Maybe that's the culprit. The wire is zip tied to the frame so the jerk would have only effected the wire to there not the fuse box. I looked at the terminals on the end of the wire quickly. They look fine and a pull on the wires shows they are seated well in the terminal.

I can't believe I pulled all the plastic, installed a sway bar, new shocks, a rear rack and backrest.....put everything back together and the the thing that gives me an issue is the 12 volt plug. Dumb luck :)
 
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