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power oulet

czdaryle

New member
Okay I read the post on how a lot of people did the power oulet on the dash, which I love. I have the one in the trunk but have no use for it as I need one to run an ipod or gps. My question is I would like to make this as cheap as possible, is it okay to buy the new power outlet and just connect it to the wires that are connected to the one in the trunk, not to both, just disconnect the one and connect the wires to the new one. I'd rather not spend and extra 50 -80 for the bus, relay..etc and since I never use the trunk one all I would have to by is the outide oulet...thanks in advance
 
Yes, just dandy. But...I personally would tap into the existing wires you described and have both of them workable.
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Okay I read the post on how a lot of people did the power oulet on the dash, which I love. I have the one in the trunk but have no use for it as I need one to run an ipod or gps. My question is I would like to make this as cheap as possible, is it okay to buy the new power outlet and just connect it to the wires that are connected to the one in the trunk, not to both, just disconnect the one and connect the wires to the new one. I'd rather not spend and extra 50 -80 for the bus, relay..etc and since I never use the trunk one all I would have to by is the outide oulet...thanks in advance
 
I actually like the charger in the trunk...I can charge my iphone and it still works with my zumo and scala rider...if it were to rain, I'd much rather have it in the trunk...nice and cozy and dry in there!
 
No problem connecting them both. Just remember this is small wiring, and the circuit will be limited to 3 amps total.
-Scotty
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If you may want to connect a battery tender, you may want to have the outlet live at all times.

I have a fused powerlet directly from the battery to just under the steering assy. Of course it will be a little more money.
 
No problem connecting them both. Just remember this is small wiring, and the circuit will be limited to 3 amps total.
-Scotty
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This is one of the craziest things I have seen BRP do, a 3 amp fuse?

This gauge, and strand count wire will easily handle 15 amps? Talk about over conservative! :yikes:

But, I have to remember this is from a company that puts your Spyder into limp mode if your brake light bulbs go out! :gaah:

MM
 
But, I have to remember this is from a company that puts your Spyder into limp mode if your brake light bulbs go out! :gaah:

MM

Ain't that the truth. Guess I better add a spare bulb to my spare relay in my "Oh shyt" box that I carry around in the trunk all the time.:ani29:
 
Got one question on this. I got the power outlet and looking at it is it okay if I just cut off the ends, strip the wires, do the same for the wires going to the current outlet in the trunk and pigtail them all together? Thanks for the help
 
I jut got mine installed on the left of the dash, they cut a hole in the little plastic vent thingy and placed it there so I can have it easily accessible.

The shop that ran it, said the wired it all up and used a fuse...thats all i know:roflblack:
 
I would love to hook into the 12 that is already there ...... any know how to get to them:gaah:
If you do not have the 12 volt accessory plug installed in the trunk, the accessory outlet harness (VI/YL & BK wires) is stored in the front lateral frame section, L/H side. Easier to get at with the trunk off, but may be reachable with long arms. The unswitched accessory wiring (VI/OR & BK wires ) is tie-wrapped to the main harness up front, as I recall. Both are only rated for 3 amps.
-Scotty
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If you do not have the 12 volt accessory plug installed in the trunk, the accessory outlet harness (VI/YL & BK wires) is stored in the front lateral frame section, L/H side. Easier to get at with the trunk off, but may be reachable with long arms. The unswitched accessory wiring (VI/OR & BK wires ) is tie-wrapped to the main harness up front, as I recall. Both are only rated for 3 amps.
-Scotty
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??? THere are two wire setups with the spyder? By switched accessory do you mean only live when running? So I can, if I don't mind power only when bike is on, connect the new one to the unswitched and leave the one in the trunk alone? interesting...thanks
 
Replace the fuse?

Okay, admittedly I know diddly about technical stuff but here goes anyway. If the accessories can handle 15 amps, why can't you just replace the 3-amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse? As long as it isn't overloaded, it shouldn't be a problem should it?
 
Okay, admittedly I know diddly about technical stuff but here goes anyway. If the accessories can handle 15 amps, why can't you just replace the 3-amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse? As long as it isn't overloaded, it shouldn't be a problem should it?

You should be fine. I run a lot more than 3 amps on mine.
 
??? THere are two wire setups with the spyder? By switched accessory do you mean only live when running? So I can, if I don't mind power only when bike is on, connect the new one to the unswitched and leave the one in the trunk alone? interesting...thanks
The switched accessory wiring is hot only when the ignition is on (and for 20-30 seconds afterward). This is the circuit that normally feeds your trunk outlet. The unswitched accessory wires are hot all the time. Anything drawing a load on this, which isn't turned off or removed every time you shut off the Spyder, can run your battery down.

Okay, admittedly I know diddly about technical stuff but here goes anyway. If the accessories can handle 15 amps, why can't you just replace the 3-amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse? As long as it isn't overloaded, it shouldn't be a problem should it?
The switched and unswitched accessory circuits cannot handle 15 amps! They are only 20 gauge wire. The maximum amperage at 12 volts that this wire will handle, running alone, in 70 degree air, is 11 amps. Running in a bundle, in the heat under the Tupperware of a Spyder, or for any distance beyond three feet total (power + ground), will reduce the ampacity. The greater the current draw, the more the voltage will drop, also. I think you could sneak by with more than the standard 3 amp rating for this wire size, but I certainly wouldn't count on anything over 5 being reliable, and a substantial draw could be unsafe...and cause a fire. JMHO.
-Scotty
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