• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Possible reason for RT windshield support cracks

The screen, the screen frame, the raising and lowering arm when added together are heavy. At the screen's lowest setting the support arm rests against a two-pronged anvil. Vibration and screen flutter causes the support arm to be "struck" against the anvil hundreds of times a minute according to how rough or uneven the road is and how gusty is the wind. We shouldn't be surprised if this design results in fatigue cracks and fractures in the support arm. I always raise my screen a little way up to stop the arm making contact with the anvil. So far so good, no cracks have appeared. :f_spider:
 
In my opinion, there is no way that even a diecast part of that cross section is going to break readily, even if pounded against an edge. In addition, the links have broken in different places, and there seems to be no correlation with where the windshield is run. At one point it was speculated that running it high as the cause. Others said they ran theirs high all the time with no problem. I run mine low most of the time, with nary a crack. It would be more likely that a center link with more travel than the end links could cause mechanical stress sufficient to start a crack. Even that shouldn't happen if the metal was sound. I believe this is a matter of metallurgy...probably from casting flaws or weaknesse, or poor quality or composition of the metal...especially if the link geometry creates pressure on the link. There could also be a design component involved in the shape or cross-section of the link. Yes, things like bumpers, large windshields (i.e. 2010), or loose pivot pins could add to the problem, but those would only be the straws that broke the camel's back. All this guessing is accomplishing nothing. This is something that BRP certainly needs to study and address, but there are better ways to find the cause(s) than mere speculation. JMHO
 
PLASTIC ? ? ?

I've not seen any problem with mine, but have kept a close eye on it.

Someone mentioned aluminum.....not sure that's right for the supports... might be the cheap pot metal crap they used to make various other parts.

I think the supports should be made out of PLASTIC...... black, pretty hard plastic.
That would hold up better, not fracture or crack.


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I agree on the " plastic " part.....But the type I would look at is what they use on the frame rails of sno-mobiles....I believe it's called " UMH " this stuff is almost indestructible and can be formed into a molded object......JMHO...Mike :thumbup:
 
All this guessing is accomplishing nothing. This is something that BRP certainly needs to study and address, but there are better ways to find the cause(s) than mere speculation. JMHO

Your "JMHO" has my full support, it could apply to several ongoing research threads? :roflblack::roflblack:
 
All this guessing is accomplishing nothing. This is something that BRP certainly needs to study and address, but there are better ways to find the cause(s) than mere speculation. JMHO

Fine sentiments well stated. In the absence of any word on the subject from BRP, Spyder owners only have this forum to try to figure out between themselves answers to problems when things go wrong. Whilst I agree with you that "guessing accomplishes nothing" it at least has the advantage of getting stuff out there and talked about. There are those who believe BRP actually takes notice of this forum. Now that really is speculation. :roflblack:


 
Geoff; That is actually, a fact.
I've talked at length with several BRP reps about this... :thumbup:
This is one VERY vocal place, so they keep an ear or two on the ground just to see what all of the rumbling is about...
 
It's most likely that the breakage in the aluminum ( or pot metal) windshield brace is the result of poor quality control at the supplier's foundry. Aluminum is pretty durable but any inclusions in the metal act as a weak spot for fractures. I have to agree with some of the above posters that while I too enjoy "beating it to death" with my friends we will not find a solution for this in out toolboxes. BRP once again has some homework to do.
 
I tend to agree; this is most likely an issue with the part that comes off the line on the bike; not a design problem...
But I'll hedge my bets by setting the windshield just a little bit off of that stop from now on! :thumbup:
 
I cannot imagine that the stop is what actually makes the motor stop trying to move the windshield down. There should be some electronic control, pot or otherwise that tells the motor to stop turning, and that the windshield is fully down.
I am also guessing that it is nothing as sophisticated as an optical sensor to tell the motor to stop trying to push the windshield down.

So I am wondering if there is a setup issue here or an assembly issue that would cause the motor to postition the windshield lower if there was no stop. I imagine that if the windshield bracket is being push hard into the stop, eventually it would break.

Since we cant move the motor without the engine running, we cant hear when the motor shuts off. If you still heard the motor trying to turn once the windshield hits the stops, that would indicate its putting down pressure on the bracket into the stop.

Just brain storming here. i will keep mine just off the stop as well..

BTW: this should be a non issue as those brackets should easily handle any normal wear like this. They should replace those with a a harder metal.
 
I keep mine in the up position 100% no problems 2011rts but when I first got the spyder I did notice alot of play that led me to look at the 2012 and they changed the pins in the support to screw like tube screw on ea end tube in center I requested the maint dept that I wanted the same took 2wks but I got and theres no slop there now.
 
windshield support cracks

I keep mine down~ except in rain and with a passenger. In the future I will keep it off the bottom stop.
 
Geoff; That is actually, a fact.
I've talked at length with several BRP reps about this... :thumbup:
This is one VERY vocal place, so they keep an ear or two on the ground just to see what all of the rumbling is about...

Thanks for that, Bob. I've thought for some time that this an excellent place for BRP to get first hand Spyder feedback. (Properly sifted, of course!) ;)
 
They pretty much have orders to, "Look; don't touch!" Could you imagine what would happen if folks knew who they were in here, and started chasing them for info? :yikes: nojoke
 
They pretty much have orders to, "Look; don't touch!" Could you imagine what would happen if folks knew who they were in here, and started chasing them for info? :yikes: nojoke

You're right, they would get pestered to death!

Actually, I would love to meet a BRP rep myself, I have about a week's worth of questions saved up - longer than that if he insisted on taking sleep breaks! :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack:
 
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