For those of you worried about squeezing the most mileage out of your tires,here's a trick that has helped me in the off-road world,I.E.much larger tires on 4x4 trucks and jeeps. What I do is take a piece of white chaulk(any vibrant color will do though) and draw a line rt to lt across the tire tread.then I fuel,load said vehicle as I would when I am using it for the intended purpose,then I drive said vehicle up or down my driveway about 10 to 15 feet(enough to give the tires one or two complete rotations)and check to see how the chaulk line has rubbed-off.If it has rubbed-off in the center of the tire there is too much air,if it has rubbed-off on the outside edges,there is not enough air in them. With alittle experimentation with the air hose you could be runnig straight across the tread pattern, For our 14 RT LIM. it seems to be 24lbs. in the front and 32lbs. in the rear(I noticed with the recomended press. in the front, the tires looked like they were "rolling-under" on the sides from cornering). I hope this helps some of you folks out there in spyder land. Be safe and ride on!!:spyder:
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
POSS.HELPFUL INFO. FOR TIRE WEAR/PROLONGING TIRE LIFE?
- Thread starter Mad Mac
- Start date
NZSpyderRyder
New member
Great advise. but
What happens when you start riding and the air in the tyre heats up and the pressure increases ?
What happens when you start riding and the air in the tyre heats up and the pressure increases ?
TIRE WEAR......
Good point and yes that could be a factor. Most press. change I have noticed in my off-road vehicle tires(pavement driving of coarse) is 3 lbs. by then you will be burning fuel off,cleaning bugs off windsheild(vehicle becoming lighter)ect.,so could it make a differance,I say possibly. WE could be splitting "hairs" here but in my unprofessional experience I have been able to squeeze an extra 3,000 to 5,000 miles out of a set of mud lug tread type tires.Ride safe and ride far!:spyder2:
Good point and yes that could be a factor. Most press. change I have noticed in my off-road vehicle tires(pavement driving of coarse) is 3 lbs. by then you will be burning fuel off,cleaning bugs off windsheild(vehicle becoming lighter)ect.,so could it make a differance,I say possibly. WE could be splitting "hairs" here but in my unprofessional experience I have been able to squeeze an extra 3,000 to 5,000 miles out of a set of mud lug tread type tires.Ride safe and ride far!:spyder2:
Last edited:
Chupaca
New member
Interesting..!!
what about the balooning factor when traveling at speed. The outer edges wear at low speeds and the center at higher speeds. If you run the pressure on the high side your gonna wear the centers a lot faster. The 14's have the new engine and it produces more horse power and more low end torque. Those used to ryding the prior RT's are used to getting on them harder because you needed to be up on the rpm's to get into the torque range. This carries over and the tires are wearing out prematurely. Though there is also talk of some bad tires...nice trick on the inflation will try it out..!! :2thumbs:
what about the balooning factor when traveling at speed. The outer edges wear at low speeds and the center at higher speeds. If you run the pressure on the high side your gonna wear the centers a lot faster. The 14's have the new engine and it produces more horse power and more low end torque. Those used to ryding the prior RT's are used to getting on them harder because you needed to be up on the rpm's to get into the torque range. This carries over and the tires are wearing out prematurely. Though there is also talk of some bad tires...nice trick on the inflation will try it out..!! :2thumbs:
flybuddy
New member
That is the biggest issue with the stock tires. In countless threads no one has been able to give a definitive tire pressure for wear throughout high and low speed use. Whether low or high pressure, it's going to egg in the center at high speed. Solution is to use stiffer car tire. The chalk idea is a good one and would be more useful with a tire that doesn't dramatically change its shape.
3 Wheel Addict
New member
ulflyer
Active member
You have to determine what works for you
Having run two car tires on my previous '11 RT, I'm now on the first one on the '14. Kenda was nearly shot by 4500mi. With 8000 now on the Pirelli, its wearing evenly as best as the eye can tell, with no discernible wear. With the '11 and now with the '14 I find a low pressure seems to work best for me. I'm running 24 in the rear, 18 front.
Since all of us have diff riding styles, diff roads, diff speeds you have to work out what wears best for you.
Having run two car tires on my previous '11 RT, I'm now on the first one on the '14. Kenda was nearly shot by 4500mi. With 8000 now on the Pirelli, its wearing evenly as best as the eye can tell, with no discernible wear. With the '11 and now with the '14 I find a low pressure seems to work best for me. I'm running 24 in the rear, 18 front.
Since all of us have diff riding styles, diff roads, diff speeds you have to work out what wears best for you.
Similar threads
- Locked
