PIcked up my 2013 RTS and noticed a few things others might want to know

[kbfk]

found something else new

16) Found out that they changed how the seat opens. Instead of turning the key while pushing down counter clockwise (this now is a frunk release) you actually have to turn the key clockwise while pushing down to unlock and lift the seat.

 

[Bob Denman]

16) Found out that they changed how the seat opens. Instead of turning the key while pushing down counter clockwise (this now is a frunk release) you actually have to turn the key clockwise while pushing down to unlock and lift the seat.

I think that's the same dance step that I use on my 2010... :dontknow:

 

[kbfk]

Updated with new items (#16)

1) The frunk space is naturally smaller because of the battery placement (my guess is 20%)
2) The mirrors have a bit more up and down adjustment in my 2011 I could not raise the mirror high enough for someone of my height (6'2"). Nice subtle change
3) You can pop the frunk while the motors running by just pushing the key in
4) The handle bars are a little closer to your body which provides a slight different arm position (more relaxed for me)
5) You have to raise your foot quite a bit higher to reach the break.
6) Fit and finish on the latches seem to be much better
7) I didn't catch this but the handle bars are black on the rts I thought that was just the adjust bars but apparently not
8) not proven by me but my dealer stated that the handle regular handle bars could be adjusted slightly?
9) the following were added with no problems (air wings, heat block off plate, diamond r. arm rest and NPV pegs)
10) elka were added but a slightly tight fit (still need to tweak the preload)
11) Added the ultimate seat, it fit but barely the battery move definitely affect its fit, not sure if a previous years corbin would fit. The back plate under the seat was a little higher causing a slight closing issue (you must push it closed and the passenger back rest gets a little in the way when you raise the seat. not a problem if you have the gas door like I do. I think you still could fill up with out the door but ill test it)
12) the screen is orange at night
13) The 2012 and earlier hitch does not quite fit the 2013 it requires a notch be put into the metal. (I moved my hitch instead of buying a new one) There is a new hitch for 2013 if your buying a new hitch for your 2013 don't buy an older model.
14) the power steering is more sensitive that prior years at high speeds (i'm sure this is brought on by several things and may just appear to be more sensitive)
***New****
15) Found out that they changed how the seat opens. Instead of turning the key while pushing down counter clockwise (this now is a frunk release) you actually have to turn the key clockwise while pushing down to unlock and lift the seat.
16) 12v cigarette lighter jack is no longer always on, it will power off about 30 seconds after you turn the bike off. This means that you can no longer charge the battery via the cigarette lighter

 

[sunshinelady]

#16 is not completely correct.
You can make the 12V power outlet always operational by moving a fuse.
I posted this info last weekend on another thread and copied it here for you to see how to do it.

In the 2013 RT manual p.153 it says you can make the rear 12V power outlet run all the time by changing the fuse from the 6 slot to 7 slot in the right fuse box.
"When fuse 6 is installed, 12 V power outlet is only operational when ignition switch is at ON position. When fuse 7 is installed, 12V power outlet is always operational."

I did this and it works.