Peacekeeper6 Mod Thread

[UtahPete]

BajaRon 3-piece sway bar upgrade

(on another thread...)

Took mine for a little spin today to check out the sway bar. It does make a noticeable difference in how the bike handles at speed in the twisties. It's steadier and flatter. I don't get the diving and rebounding any more.

After checking it out on the back roads, I tried the highway. There's a section of I-80 east of US-40 that enters a very twisty section where the advisory for trucks is 35-45mph. There's been two truck accidents there in the past week where the trucks tipped over, spilling their loads; one was bees and the other chocolate.

Anyway, I ran that 5 miles well over the posted speed limit (80+) and the bike was steady as a rock. A Mazda gave chase for awhile but backed off in the twistiest stuff.

I'm happy with the sway bar upgrade. Let the tut-tutting begin...

 

[Peacekeeper6]

(on another thread...)

Took mine for a little spin today to check out the sway bar. It does make a noticeable difference in how the bike handles at speed in the twisties. It's steadier and flatter. I don't get the diving and rebounding any more.

After checking it out on the back roads, I tried the highway. There's a section of I-80 east of US-40 that enters a very twisty section where the advisory for trucks is 35-45mph. There's been two truck accidents there in the past week where the trucks tipped over, spilling their loads; one was bees and the other chocolate.

Anyway, I ran that 5 miles well over the posted speed limit (80+) and the bike was steady as a rock. A Mazda gave chase for awhile but backed off in the twistiest stuff.

I'm happy with the sway bar upgrade. Let the tut-tutting begin...

There's ALWAYS gonna be some nay-sayer that'll say, "Oh, don't be like everybody else and upgrade the swaybar. It's not gonna make one bit of difference. Just lighten up your grip and you'll get used to it. So save your money because the swaybar is just a waste of money."

I always reply to them, "Well, have you EVER ridden a Spyder that has an upgraded swaybar ??"

Silence.

I was one of those who wasn't convinced that piece of thicker bar and a couple of metal thingies is going to do jack to my bike. But after reading MANY riders who were happy they did it, I figured those NO FRIGGEN WAY they were wrong.

So I took the plunge.

I am a TRUE believer of the Baja Ron swaybar. It really transformed my bike to something I feel safe and secure in (i.e. more composed), and not some machine that's twitchy and handles like it's high on meth.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

25) Show Chrome M14-1.5/M12-1.5 Magnetic Drain Plugs

Difficulty Level - 1.0

Tips - Honestly, if you cannot perform the simple procedure of changing the oil on your bike, you best leave this to someone who can. It’s just a matter of replacing the factory drain plugs which can be easily stripped if you can’t tell the difference between a Torx and an Allen head. I’ve heard of MANY DIYers who have stripped them (lord knows how), so if you are one of them, it behooves you to replace those stockers with these plugs.



BTW, when you install the new magnetic engine oil drain plug, PUT A NEW METAL GASKET IN FIRST. Otherwise, if you put the rubber o-rings first, you’ll end up taking them off again because the metal gasket won’t easily pass through. Don’t ask me how I know ….

Notes: Another great product from Show Chrome. I like the fact that the engine oil drain plug has a magnet to attract any metallic particles that can damage the engine. The stock one does not, which is yet another way of BRP to save money during production. The hex heads are a god send; that means I can just bring my rack of sockets instead of my rack of Torx AND Allen bits. (Just WTH was BRP thinking when designing these simple plugs anyway ??). The positive engagement between the new drain plugs and my socket (if you can, ALWAYS use a 6-point instead of a 12 to reduce the possibility of rounding out the head and stripping them that way) will make oil changes SO MUCH easier, less stressful and a “bit” faster (see what I did there ??).

 

[Peacekeeper6]

26) Redesigned Turn Signal Button/Shifter Pad by TCBoone and FrogmanDave

Difficulty Level - 0.5 (probably THE easiest mod I've installed)

Tips - Use a small-bladed screwdriver to pop the turn signal button. Gorilla force is not required, but be careful it doesn't pop off and fly past your eyeballs like a TOW missile. I was VERY gingerly prying mine off and it did just that (don't know why). I wanted to see how the old button was situated, so that I know where the hole on the back goes. If you look at the switch tab, there is more room on the top; I surmised that the hole would be on the bottom and I was right. It slid right on.

Before you rip the adhesive thingie off the shifter pad and slap it on, TEST FIT it on the paddle shifter first. You will notice it's not exactly cut to fit the whole area. There will be a .25mm gap around the whole thing, and I think sticking it on this way looks a little better. The ONLY (very minor) complaint I have is I wish both components weren't so shiny and were made with a little flatter black matte color to better match the bike, but I'm just nitpicking here.

Notes: Initial feel indicates that these are worthwhile mods. I didn't get a chance to try them out because it was too cold and windy to ride, but judging from the MANY who have, it's WELL worth it.

Thanks to TCBoone and FrogmanDave in designing such elegantly-simple components which will make a HUGE difference I'm sure.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

Finally got a chance to test out the Turn Signal Button/Shifter Pad by TCBoone and FrogmanDave during a ride last Saturday.

Turn Signal Button - works great. No more erroneous cancellation of the turn signals and looking like an idiot to other motorists. The safety factor is vastly improved because the button is easily accessible due to its larger size AND I don't have to look down anymore and seeing if I cancelled it. Anytime I can keep my eyes on the road is ALWAYS a good thing.

Shifter Pad - This mod is DA BOMB (that means "wicked good" to those who don't know the modern slang term). I thought about upgrading to the current improved version (the one that gets progressively thicker at the bottom), but I found that with my small hands and short fingers, I was only hitting the top half of the button, which means the newer version isn't going to do jack. The thickness is just right for me, and I found upshifting A LOT easier and a nanosecond faster, since my thumb can easily find the button to fire up faster upshifts. (Those with larger "Sasquatch" hands will definitely benefit with the newer shifter pad, I'm sure).

I believe that this mod wins the coveted easy-to-install/highly-effective Ratio Factor. And the fact that it was inexpensive compared to my other mods is just icing on the cake.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

Haven't gotten bitten by the Mod Bug this year, LOL.

Need some ideas, folks !!!!

 

[FrogmanDave]

Haven't gotten bitten by the Mod Bug this year, LOL.

Need some ideas, folks !!!!

Add a subwoofer and amplifier.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

Add a subwoofer and amplifier.

TBH, I don't find riding while listening to music particularly pleasurable. Too much wind noise for my taste.

Plus, my RLS cat delete and Two Brothers Racing exhaust easily drowns out any music that can come from a sub and amp upgrade, LOL.

 

[Lew L]

. And that's why you're ryding sweep------:joke::joke::joke:

 

[Peter Aawen]

Haven't gotten bitten by the Mod Bug this year, LOL.

Need some ideas, folks !!!!

I just had a quick look back thru this thread again, and unless I missed it, it looks like you haven't had an ECU Upgrade done yet?? :shocked: Why on earth not?? :dontknow: Not just a 'Pedal Commander' or 'Power Commander' that enhances your throttle response without changing any if the tuning/power/performance parameters, but a proper ECU Upgrade that removes some of the (needlessly restrictive?? ) power constraints that've been imposed on our Spyders AND improves/enhances the throttle response too - altho if you want to add a Power Commander later just to make things even more responsive....

Go On, DO IT!! You'll be gob-smacked at how much 'nicer' your Spyder becomes to ride when you unleash a bit more of the power your motor was designed to produce, only for it be choked down & significantly restricted apparently because BRP's lawyers feel that responsible & capable riders simply can't trust be trusted with too much of a good thing! :gaah: And yet with a readily available & proven reliable ECU Upgrade you can access all this extra power and still keep your engine's power output & reliability well within those this same engine puts out on other platforms!!

I know that the 'Stage 1 & 2 Upgrades' that you lot get over there aren't quite the same as the 'fully customised' Upgrades we can get here in Oz, but after my V-Twin powered Spyder's ECU Upgrade, I've found that not only have I got a SHED LOAD of more tire-frying power on tap whenever I want to use it (altho I do try not to do the 'tire frying' thing all the time! pps: ) but when I'm out there cruising and not wringing the throttle to extremes at every gear shift, I get far better fuel economy than most V-Twin Spyders AND quite a few of the 1330 powered Spyders too!! hyea:

Not saying that you'd necessarily get the same percentage or even the same sort of improvements from one of the potted upgrades available over there for your Spyder, but I'm pretty sure you'd get a bunch more power on tap; make your Spyder a whole lot more excitable when you twist the throttle hard; a lot more tractable & rideable when you're not so hard on the throttle; and very likely improve your 'cruising' fuel economy to boot! And there's no change in maintenance requirements OR any real risk to your engine/driveline, cos unless you choose to flog it hard ALL the time, or you go custom & extreme with the tune, then you're most likely not going to be anywhere near exceeding the already proven reliable power outputs of these engines when used in other platforms!

You've already got the exhaust end of the upgrade done, why not get the intake end and the computers upgraded too?? :dontknow: . I really doubt you'll ever regret it! :thumbup:

 

[Peacekeeper6]

. And that's why you're ryding sweep------:joke::joke::joke:

The ONLY position to ride in besides lead.

I don't like having to worry about riders in front of me AND behind me. The problem with being tail gunner is that there's an increased chance of being separated from the group, and are likely to be left behind if the ride leader isn't considerate enough to wait, especially when riding in town where there are many traffic lights.

Which reminds me. When and where is our next ride ????

 

[Peacekeeper6]

I just had a quick look back thru this thread again, and unless I missed it, it looks like you haven't had an ECU Upgrade done yet?? :shocked: Why on earth not?? :dontknow: Not just a 'Pedal Commander' or 'Power Commander' that enhances your throttle response without changing any if the tuning/power/performance parameters, but a proper ECU Upgrade that removes some of the (needlessly restrictive?? ) power constraints that've been imposed on our Spyders AND improves/enhances the throttle response too - altho if you want to add a Power Commander later just to make things even more responsive....

Go On, DO IT!! You'll be gob-smacked at how much 'nicer' your Spyder becomes to ride when you unleash a bit more of the power your motor was designed to produce, only for it be choked down & significantly restricted apparently because BRP's lawyers feel that responsible & capable riders simply can't trust be trusted with too much of a good thing! :gaah: And yet with a readily available & proven reliable ECU Upgrade you can access all this extra power and still keep your engine's power output & reliability well within those this same engine puts out on other platforms!!

I know that the 'Stage 1 & 2 Upgrades' that you lot get over there aren't quite the same as the 'fully customised' Upgrades we can get here in Oz, but after my V-Twin powered Spyder's ECU Upgrade, I've found that not only have I got a SHED LOAD of more tire-frying power on tap whenever I want to use it (altho I do try not to do the 'tire frying' thing all the time! pps: ) but when I'm out there cruising and not wringing the throttle to extremes at every gear shift, I get far better fuel economy than most V-Twin Spyders AND quite a few of the 1330 powered Spyders too!! hyea:

Not saying that you'd necessarily get the same percentage or even the same sort of improvements from one of the potted upgrades available over there for your Spyder, but I'm pretty sure you'd get a bunch more power on tap; make your Spyder a whole lot more excitable when you twist the throttle hard; a lot more tractable & rideable when you're not so hard on the throttle; and very likely improve your 'cruising' fuel economy to boot! And there's no change in maintenance requirements OR any real risk to your engine/driveline, cos unless you choose to flog it hard ALL the time, or you go custom & extreme with the tune, then you're most likely not going to be anywhere near exceeding the already proven reliable power outputs of these engines when used in other platforms!

You've already got the exhaust end of the upgrade done, why not get the intake end and the computers upgraded too?? :dontknow: . I really doubt you'll ever regret it! :thumbup:

This is likely my next upgrade. I've been hearing good things about it, but need to find out which company is reputable and does quality work.

I'll probably send my ECU after this riding season is over so I won't miss any upcoming rides.

 

[Spyder Hawk]

Hey Peacekeeper6, I have a mod for you. It took me a while, but it makes my bike a little bit special. I was able to machine bar end blinkers using the stock parts and some aftermarket blinkers.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

Hey Peacekeeper6, I have a mod for you. It took me a while, but it makes my bike a little bit special. I was able to machine bar end blinkers using the stock parts and some aftermarket blinkers.

View attachment 206413

That's a cool, tasteful mod.

Too bad I already bought Lamonster's IPS bar ends to bling up my bike, LOL.

 

[Poppie65]

Tips - Prior to removing the seat, put a piece of cloth on top of the dreaded Black
Hole in the back to prevent accidentally dropping a nut or bolt into it and never
seeing it again.

Ha! Ain't that the truth! My buddy and I spent an hour searching for a screw that jumped out of my hand. He finally found it using his cockpit FOD searching skills that served him well in the USAF. It had ricocheted into a sneaky little crevice and was trying it's best to sabotage an otherwise very satisfying MOD day. We got it though, with dexterity and a magnetic retrieval tool.

 

[ReRose]

I put the Baha Ron Sway Bar on the wifes 2020 Spyder RTL and she rode it for 3 weeks before asking me when I was gonna find time to install it. Told her it had been on for 3 weeks and she did not notice anything. Did not go well for me.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

I put the Baha Ron Sway Bar on the wifes 2020 Spyder RTL and she rode it for 3 weeks before asking me when I was gonna find time to install it. Told her it had been on for 3 weeks and she did not notice anything. Did not go well for me.

I've heard that BRP upgraded their swaybar after 2020, and that installing the Baja Ron swaybar offers a negligible difference.

I've also heard of some who DID install it on their post-2020 Spyders and it improved their handling.

In either case, I just can't wait for the weather to warm up some so that I can "go for a putt" on my RTL, lol.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

27) Lowering belt tension to reduce vibration at highway speeds (over 65 mph)

Difficulty Level - 2.0

Tips - Buy an accurate belt tension gauge like a Krikit. Watch various YouTube vids, because there are A LOT of good ones out there. When tightening the axle nut, make sure the whole axle doesn't shift on you. Some people use adjustable cargo straps tied around the rim to ensure this doesn't happen. I lowered my belt tension from the factory 210 pounds to about the 150-160 range. Make sure you (1) read the gauge while it is directly in the middle of the drive sprocket and rear sprocket, and (2) read the gauge while the bike is on the ground. This means that you might have to do some trial and error to finally get it correct. Also, make sure you spin the tire forwards AND backwards prior to lowering the bike to ensure the belt is within the specs on the sprocket. Again, adjustments will have to be made to get this finally correct.

Notes: Prior to doing this mod (a couple of years ago, I might add, but forgot to document it until now), my bike was experiencing belt vibrations at speeds over 65 mph. I later read in this forum that lowering the tension will vastly reduce the vibrations (but might occur at a different speed, to which I haven't experienced yet). After lowering the tension AND installing the high-quality Lamonster IPS Belt Tensioner, I can now ride at "warp speed", easily keeping up with the speed demons in my riding group and having fun while not worrying that my bike will vibrate itself to oblivion.

 

[Allen42]

23) Lowering belt tension to reduce vibration at highway speeds (over 65 mph)

Difficulty Level - 2.0

Tips - Buy an accurate belt tension gauge like a Krikit. Watch various YouTube vids, because there are A LOT of good ones out there. When tightening the axle nut, make sure the whole axle doesn't shift on you. Some people use adjustable cargo straps tied around the rim to ensure this doesn't happen. I lowered my belt tension from the factory 210 pounds to about the 150-160 range. Make sure you (1) read the gauge while it is directly in the middle of the drive sprocket and rear sprocket, and (2) read the gauge while the bike is on the ground. This means that you might have to do some trial and error to finally get it correct. Also, make sure you spin the tire forwards AND backwards prior to lowering the bike to ensure the belt is within the specs on the sprocket. Again, adjustments will have to be made to get this finally correct.

Notes: Prior to doing this mod (a couple of years ago, I might add, but forgot to document it until now), my bike was experiencing belt vibrations at speeds over 65 mph. I later read in this forum that lowering the tension will vastly reduce the vibrations (but might occur at a different speed, to which I haven't experienced yet). After lowering the tension AND installing the high-quality Lamonster IPS Belt Tensioner, I can now ride at "warp speed", easily keeping up with the speed demons in my riding group and having fun while not worrying that my bike will vibrate itself to oblivion.

Thanks for this post (& thread.) This ^ is next on my list of things to look into. I made a post here:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-amp-running&p=1710553&viewfull=1#post1710553

to find out how difficult it would be for me, and how many new tools I would need.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

28) Show Chrome Rear Trunk Shock

Difficulty Level - 1.0

Tips - BEFORE YOU START UNBOLTING THINGS OFF, PLACE A RAG OR TOWEL BETWEEN THE REAR SEAT BACK AND THE SEAT ITSELF. Trust me when I say that you do NOT want any hardware dropping into that famous Hole Of Oblivion, never to be seen again.

I first removed the top bolt and tried to pry the shock off with no success (I must've not eaten my Wheaties that morning). So I ended up unbolting the bottom mount, (which was a blessing in disguise because It was A LOT easier unloosening that metal band thingie that caused the old rod to pop off). With the bottom of the rod loose, the top part was easier to pry off because the remaining upward pressure from the shock was reduced.

I reinstalled the new shock by bolting the top part first. Then I installed the round mounting bolt on the bottom. The last part involves pushing the shock upward just a bit and POPPING it onto the round bolt WITHOUT doing anything to the metal band. It just miraculously snapped on, which is a good thing and saved me from muttering any choice curse words.

Notes: I thought about blowing off replacing the shock and just placing a block of wood to hold the lid up, but to me, that just seems so ghetto and janky. $30 and a few easy minutes of wrenching are a small price to pay for convenience, IMHO.

I bought my '18 RTL in 2019 IIRC, which means the stock shock only lasts about 5 years. I think with this new shock, I might store my bike in the garage with the lid open, so the new shock isn't always under constant pressure. Doing this might make it last just a bit longer...