Parking Brake will not release - any better fix than disconnecting?

[billybovine]

I am a long way from home. On vacation. Staying at hotel in Titusville, Florida. A lot of threads on this subject. No good solutions in the couple of threads I have read so far. Parking brake will not release. 2018 F3L. Codes P0571, P1571 and Uo128. Never had this problem before, but know it was common problem with the 2018's when they were new. I pulled the cable from the rear bracket, so I can drive it. It is a pain in the a$$ not having a parking brake.

So my question is. Is there a better fix for me not being at home and my dealer is closed today for a holiday? So no advice from them.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

Can you locate a dealer in the area that would be open today or tomorrow?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am a long way from home. On vacation. Staying at hotel in Titusville, Florida. A lot of threads on this subject. No good solutions in the couple of threads I have read so far. Parking brake will not release. 2018 F3L. Codes P0571, P1571 and Uo128. Never had this problem before, but know it was common problem with the 2018's when they were new. I pulled the cable from the rear bracket, so I can drive it. It is a pain in the a$$ not having a parking brake.

So my question is. Is there a better fix for me not being at home and my dealer is closed today for a holiday? So no advice from them.

It's electrically activated, could your battery be weak ???? ... if you have jumper cables & a car/trk .... use them to boost the juice .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Peteoz]

Can you hear your park brake motor, Billy? Do you have any tools - like 12mm wrench….I suppose you do if you have unhooked the cable. Some have found that if the cable tension is “on the edge”, slackening the cable a little allows the mechanism to function again…….sorry, just clutching at straws.

Pete

 

[Tucker01]

I’ve tried everything, voltage check at parking brake motor, fuses, battery, still no luck. I ordered a new parking brake motor �� It looks like a real pain in the *** to replace, but I’m going to give it a try when the new motor gets here. Is yours a 2018?

 

[oldguyinTX]

Found this

U0128 TCM
BOSCH
Lost communication
with WPM/EPB (lost
of CAN ID’s)

Missing CAN ID 460h
from WPM/EPB.
Module internal error.
Damaged circuit wires or
damaged module pins.

Check for TCM fault
or WPM/EPB fault.
With unit connected
to BUDS with MPI2,
Turn ignition switch OFF,
wait for cluster to turn off.
Disconnect MPI2
from DLC connector.
Measure resistance between
DLC-1 and DLC-2 (expected
value = 50 to 70 ohms).
Measure resistance between
DLC-1 and TCMB-C1
(expected value < 2 ohms).
Measure resistance between
DLC-2 and TCMB-C2
(expected value < 2 ohms).
Measure resistance
between DLC-1 and WPM-6
(expected value < 2 ohms).
Measure resistance
between DLC-2 and WPM-8
(expected value < 2 ohms).
Turn ignition switch ON
Measure voltage between harness
connector WPM-5 and ground
(expected value = 11 to 13 volts).

Could not find the other two codes, but my code list is pretty old and codes have maybe changed. The one I did find may or may not be relevant. Sorry couldn't be of more help.

 

[billybovine]

Can you locate a dealer in the area that would be open today or tomorrow?

I am going to check tomorrow. I found a search function for local dealers from BRP.

 

[billybovine]

It's electrically activated, could your battery be weak ???? ... if you have jumper cables & a car/trk .... use them to boost the juice .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

I don't think it is voltage/power issue. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not and the running engine takes a week battery out of the picture. The U code points to a com issue.

 

[billybovine]

Can you hear your park brake motor, Billy? Do you have any tools - like 12mm wrench….I suppose you do if you have unhooked the cable. Some have found that if the cable tension is “on the edge”, slackening the cable a little allows the mechanism to function again…….sorry, just clutching at straws.

Pete

All I got is a set of wrenches. So I do have 12mm wrench. There is no attempt to work. Even with the brake cable disconnected.

 

[billybovine]

I’ve tried everything, voltage check at parking brake motor, fuses, battery, still no luck. I ordered a new parking brake motor �� It looks like a real pain in the *** to replace, but I’m going to give it a try when the new motor gets here. Is yours a 2018?

Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

[billybovine]

I agree it is likely a com issue. It is likely a faulty brake module. But your post got me thinking. I have couple aftermarket addons. It may be electrical noise. I will unplug them a see if that makes any difference.

 

[BertRemington]

I can only speak to the 2014 RT-S but BRP reuses parts across models so an F3 and RT probably share the same WPM (Windshield and Parking Brake Module).

The WPM has two individual circuits (ground isolated because the motors are reversible) powering the two motors. Current levels are high with #18 to the motors and #16 to the WPM from the LFB F4 20amp fuse.

Motor control is distinctly different for windshield and parking brake.

The windshield position is via CANBUS from the left hand switch module. The windshield motor and drive mechanism are paired at the factory which leads me to suspect limit control involves current sensing.

The parking brake position is via direct wire connections from the PB switch. The switch is a Momentary-On + ON SPST (I'm ignoring the frunk unlock). Therefore it toggles (push once Engage push again Disengage) a circuit within the WPM. It's unclear how the WPM determines when to power the brake motor. There is a SPST parking brake connected to ground and both the console and WPM. It's possible but unlikely the WPM and console use CANBUS to control the parking brake.

Which returns me to the question I've asked several times: what exactly is the console brake light showing? When ignition is turned On? When the PB switch is toggled quickly? When the PB switch is held down for two seconds? When the Spyder is placed into 1st while running? When placed into Reverse while Running? When ignition is switched Off while in 1st gear and then after 30 seconds is switched back On (does transmission go into Neutral)? With your foot lightly on the brake pedal, do you feel any motion? Is your brake light working properly?

I did a quick check of F3 parts and it appears for several (all?) models that while there is a WPM there isn't a windshield motor which eliminates one thread of investigation.

So what is the failure mode? If the brake motor isn't moving, it could be the nylon/steel gear is jammed. It could be the WPM isn't toggling. It could be the motor is damaged although I think the 20amp fuse would open. It could be the parking brake switch is open or closed at the wrong time due to cable stretching or debris in the mechanism.

The problem is almost all these failures are subtle to diagnose. Due to the intricacies of the WPM I keep coming back to BUDS before any parts replacement decision is made.

 

[Peteoz]

All I got is a set of wrenches. So I do have 12mm wrench. There is no attempt to work. Even with the brake cable disconnected.

Bugger…….sorry……..hoping you can contact a dealer tomorrow:2thumbs:

Pete

 

[gkamer]

I had the same problem with my 2018 RTL. I found that by giving my bike a tiny bit of throttle in 1st and Reverse, the parking brake would eventually release on it's own. I was able to track down a BRP Warranty Bulletin that addressed this issue. I took it to my dealership and they replaced the parking brake motor/actuator under warranty. In looking at the bulletin this morning it seems it expired on the 31st of January, 2023.

 

[billybovine]

It's fixed!!!!!!! I called Seminole Power Sports. They had the parts and willing to squeeze me in. So a big Thank You to them. Thank You to all of you that left comments.

The drive motor was bad and needed to be replaced. The U code was a red herring. The motor is a dumb device and does not communicate with anything.

 

[Peteoz]

It's fixed!!!!!!! I called Seminole Power Sports. They had the parts and willing to squeeze me in. So a big Thank You to them. Thank You to all of you that left comments.

The drive motor was bad and needed to be replaced. The U code was a red herring. The motor is a dumb device and does not communicate with anything.

Great to hear, Billy…….thanks for letting us know:2thumbs:

Pete

 

[rjinaz86323]

Parking brake issue

Well today the parking brake issue reared its ugly head. Went to leave and brake wouldn’t release. Took off the cable and got home. Now I just got to figure out what my next step is.