Yes, most definitely.
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Parking brake stuck and engine won't turn over - any ideas??
- Thread starter DanY
- Start date
Yes, most definitely.
BertRemington
New member
So your fuel pump isn't going through its priming sequence?
Start your wife's F3L, let it idle 30 seconds, shift into 1st, wait 30 seconds, turn ignition OFF, wait 30 seconds after the headlights turn off, then turn ignition ON without your foot on brake pedal. Does the fuel pump go through its priming sequence (it should)?
Now (I'm not expecting this) -- press the brake pedal. The fuel pump should go through its priming sequence, and you should be able to start her F3L after the automatic shift into Neutral is completed.
Yes -- there is something wrong with your F3L I can't diagnose.
Start your wife's F3L, let it idle 30 seconds, shift into 1st, wait 30 seconds, turn ignition OFF, wait 30 seconds after the headlights turn off, then turn ignition ON without your foot on brake pedal. Does the fuel pump go through its priming sequence (it should)?
Now (I'm not expecting this) -- press the brake pedal. The fuel pump should go through its priming sequence, and you should be able to start her F3L after the automatic shift into Neutral is completed.
Yes -- there is something wrong with your F3L I can't diagnose.
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JayBros
Well-known member
No, not on my '14. If I have shut down the engine with it in 1st gear and not in neutral, which I do only if my brain is somewhere other then shutting down the bike, and use the kill switch to shut down the engine, when I turn on the ignition switch and then turn on the kill switch the fuel pump will prime like yours did with no foot on the brake, but if I press the start button without first stepping on the brake, the safety cut out will not allow the start button to work.
How would I do that?
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BertRemington
New member
Don't. Just don't.
First of all, BR said Starter and Mikey said Starter Solenoid. Very different. And with the heavy currents and complex circuits involved you're at significant risk of further damaging your Spyder including a fire.
The starter sequence involves a relay, a solenoid including a diode, a button and three direct connections to the ECM all of which are ground-commanded as well as the starter itself.
Shoving a sketchy cable into a crowded space which you are most apparently not familiar with will end in sadness.
Your best course of action at this point is to trailer your Spyder to the dealer and trade it for another. Before there is smoke if not actual flames.
==========
If I have persuaded you away from a starter/starter solenoid test, what were the results from testing your wife's F3L as I described above? (Apologies for the confusing misspelling No as Now in my test instructions.)
Is your fuel pump priming?
While both Yes and No are bad, No is worse than Yes. Although in both instances I suggest it's time for a BUDS2 diagnosis.
Since this situation is becoming dire, I will say what I've held back before.
While SLA batteries are "sealed" they do have vents. And a 4 year old battery in the severe heat of Central TX is likely to have lost electrolyte. Which results in increased internal resistance of the battery thereby reducing its ability to absorb over-voltage transients, those transients being harmful to Spyder electronics.
Take your F3L to a dealer with BUDS2 before you damage it any further.
First of all, BR said Starter and Mikey said Starter Solenoid. Very different. And with the heavy currents and complex circuits involved you're at significant risk of further damaging your Spyder including a fire.
The starter sequence involves a relay, a solenoid including a diode, a button and three direct connections to the ECM all of which are ground-commanded as well as the starter itself.
Shoving a sketchy cable into a crowded space which you are most apparently not familiar with will end in sadness.
Your best course of action at this point is to trailer your Spyder to the dealer and trade it for another. Before there is smoke if not actual flames.
==========
If I have persuaded you away from a starter/starter solenoid test, what were the results from testing your wife's F3L as I described above? (Apologies for the confusing misspelling No as Now in my test instructions.)
Is your fuel pump priming?
While both Yes and No are bad, No is worse than Yes. Although in both instances I suggest it's time for a BUDS2 diagnosis.
Since this situation is becoming dire, I will say what I've held back before.
While SLA batteries are "sealed" they do have vents. And a 4 year old battery in the severe heat of Central TX is likely to have lost electrolyte. Which results in increased internal resistance of the battery thereby reducing its ability to absorb over-voltage transients, those transients being harmful to Spyder electronics.
Take your F3L to a dealer with BUDS2 before you damage it any further.
safecracker
Active member
I did not see anyone mention the parking brake switch. This is located on the right side of the bike. The wheel that controls the parking brake cable hits a micro switch. This controls the light display on the dash. So you could remove switch and control it manually. This probably wont help on starting issue. Bruce
Having tried everything that was suggested with no results, I ended up trailering the bike to the dealership where they stated they were 3 weeks behind.
I'll post the findings when known for someone's knowledge if they ever have a similar issue.
A huge thanks to everyone posting on this tread. A knowledge base from many contributors is one of the big reasons I love this forum!!
I'll post the findings when known for someone's knowledge if they ever have a similar issue.
A huge thanks to everyone posting on this tread. A knowledge base from many contributors is one of the big reasons I love this forum!!
Thank you and good luck!
Update - Installed three different, new batteries to verify it's not a battery issue.
Same situation exists. Turn ignition on, screen lights up, press mode, depress brake and hit start and --- nothing. No fuel pump coming on, no engine turning whatsoever.
Not sure if it is the left side housing itself where the mode and parking brake buttons are is dead, though the horn works.
All fuses are ok. Almost seems to be a loose or broken wire. Not sure where to proceed from here.
Same situation exists. Turn ignition on, screen lights up, press mode, depress brake and hit start and --- nothing. No fuel pump coming on, no engine turning whatsoever.
Not sure if it is the left side housing itself where the mode and parking brake buttons are is dead, though the horn works.
All fuses are ok. Almost seems to be a loose or broken wire. Not sure where to proceed from here.
BertRemington
New member
This conflicts with your post #24
the third item being
The fuel pump priming sequence is a fundamental part of the Spyder initialization process (which includes CANBUS actions to determine your specific Spyder configuration eg radio CB etc). Failure to prime the pump means failure to initialize the "computers" in the console, ECM, TCM, VCM, etc.
The good news is the problem might be something simple like a switch failure, wiring damage, fuse open or relay malfunctioning. The bad news is somehow you fried your ECM. I give 50-50 odds for each scenario.
Time to find a friend who can help you troubleshoot your wiring system using a DVOM, needle-style probes and of course a service manual with schematic. Or with a BUDS2 diagnostic system.
Based on my update for further knowledge, I misspoke thinking the fuel pump activated during the start process. It did not.
After trying three different batteries, it was determined that ain't the program. The dealer did a preliminary disgnostic test and it's not the ECM. Whether it's a simple wire damage or fuse issue is yet to be determined.
I checked all of the fuses and they looked fine but did not actually exchange new fuses. What specific fuse and/or relay should I zero in on to replace to check that out?
After trying three different batteries, it was determined that ain't the program. The dealer did a preliminary disgnostic test and it's not the ECM. Whether it's a simple wire damage or fuse issue is yet to be determined.
I checked all of the fuses and they looked fine but did not actually exchange new fuses. What specific fuse and/or relay should I zero in on to replace to check that out?
BertRemington
New member
Repeat my post #9 and report back.
Then read my post #27. In simpler language, your ECM has to be working for the fuel pump to prime and I'm not convinced it is.
WRT swapping relays and fuses, when your wife isn't looking swap them with her F3L.
Then read my post #27. In simpler language, your ECM has to be working for the fuel pump to prime and I'm not convinced it is.
WRT swapping relays and fuses, when your wife isn't looking swap them with her F3L.
Bfromla
Well-known member
Thanks for update:gaah: sorry to hear.
Got the bike back home after 1 month at the dealer. Sat there for 3.5 weeks, diagnosed and fixed in 2 days.
The LH Multifunction Switch housing (Part#710008091) was the ultimate culprit. Fortunately, I had B.E.S.T. Extended Warranty and the part and labor was covered under warranty. I only had to pay the deductible of $50.
Has anyone else had this issue before? Was there anything (warning signs) I should have realized ahead of time this was a possibility? I was lucky in the fact I was only 1.5 hours from my house and was able leave the bike, get my trailer and load the bike that day.
It wouldn't have been pretty for this to happen thousands of miles from the house. No limp mode, it just died.
The LH Multifunction Switch housing (Part#710008091) was the ultimate culprit. Fortunately, I had B.E.S.T. Extended Warranty and the part and labor was covered under warranty. I only had to pay the deductible of $50.
Has anyone else had this issue before? Was there anything (warning signs) I should have realized ahead of time this was a possibility? I was lucky in the fact I was only 1.5 hours from my house and was able leave the bike, get my trailer and load the bike that day.
It wouldn't have been pretty for this to happen thousands of miles from the house. No limp mode, it just died.
Yeah Dan, if you do a bit of searching & maybe a lot of reading, there's a HEAP of fairly recent problems like this with that LH Control.... Altho looking back a bit further, it seems the problems may have started to trickle in after the 2014 upgrade, increasing gradually until about 2018/19, then becoming somewhat more common and frustrating! :banghead:
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Mikey
Well-known member
Wow.....that's so reassuringray:
It's man made and you got to roll with the punches even when they hit you in the gut! I some cases I am glad I am riding OLD Iron. It is starting to get hard finding parts, but it still runs down the road well.:2thumbs:
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