• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Parking Brake - How Many Clicks?

This looks like a great and very valuable, detailed video!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Mrlki5_l-8


Cheers - I hope this helps some, it will help me when the time comes.

Great video...have to keep this thread out there...but let me get this straight...the emergency brake mechanism is on the right but the pedal is on the left...mine has been getting very sticky as of late...when it gets warmer, I should probably adjust it to get it to work better...
 
Great video...have to keep this thread out there...but let me get this straight...the emergency brake mechanism is on the right but the pedal is on the left...mine has been getting very sticky as of late...when it gets warmer, I should probably adjust it to get it to work better...
Clean the mechanism up and spray it with WD-40. That should help. It collects a lot of road grime.
 
Clean the mechanism up and spray it with WD-40. That should help. It collects a lot of road grime.


Hi guys.
Scotty, when you say spray the mechanism, you mean the right side where the cable is on the rear wheel, correct? Would cleaning up and oiling the racket / pedal side (on the left foot pedal) also help keep things moving freely?

I know with the brakes (discs and pads) we have to be very careful what we lubricate...


Also, would you recommend something like Red or Green Rust Check, to help lubricate and protect the mechanisms?

thank you.
 
Hi guys.
Scotty, when you say spray the mechanism, you mean the right side where the cable is on the rear wheel, correct? Would cleaning up and oiling the racket / pedal side (on the left foot pedal) also help keep things moving freely?

I know with the brakes (discs and pads) we have to be very careful what we lubricate...


Also, would you recommend something like Red or Green Rust Check, to help lubricate and protect the mechanisms?

thank you.
The sticking comes from the left side, where the ratchet mechanism is. Clean and spray that when the thing starts to stick. What you want is all the mechanical junk under the footpeg, not just the pedal pivot. I use WD-40 as a lube. Just be careful that whatever you use to clean doesn't eat paint. A good hard spray with a water hose from below, followed by blowing out with air (if you can), then the WD-40 or similar lube does wonders. Doesn't hurt to lubricate the cable, too, but oil works better for that.
 
The sticking comes from the left side, where the ratchet mechanism is. Clean and spray that when the thing starts to stick. What you want is all the mechanical junk under the footpeg, not just the pedal pivot. I use WD-40 as a lube. Just be careful that whatever you use to clean doesn't eat paint. A good hard spray with a water hose from below, followed by blowing out with air (if you can), then the WD-40 or similar lube does wonders. Doesn't hurt to lubricate the cable, too, but oil works better for that.

Thanks for the note, Scotty. That reminds me that I'll have to get another couple cans of air for when the time comes.


Cheers.
 
I am trying to come up with simple tests for their mechanics to do in order to see how good of a job they do, and how they treat my Spyder.This is probably way too simple though. Do you have any other suggestions for a test?
Disconnect a vacuum line: if he discover the "problem", is a keeper. :thumbup:
DSC00779.jpg
 
Disconnect a vacuum line: if he discover the "problem", is a keeper. :thumbup:
DSC00779.jpg

Thanks for that idea Doc!

Now, the closest dealer to me is at least 1.5 hours away and I do not want to ride that far without the line connected. I figure I can disconnect it somewhere about 5 minutes away or so. Since I will not be riding it very far, what are the symptoms of the vacuum line being off so I know what to tell them is going on with it? ;)
 
what are the symptoms of the vacuum line being off so I know what to tell them is going on with it?
:popcorn:


Also, while you're there, maybe they can check/adjust the parking brake for you.


Cheers.
 
Back
Top