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parking brake adjustment on 2014
- Thread starter bill51
- Start date
JayBros
Well-known member
You're simply making a barrel adjuster adjustment as you would on a bicycle caliper brake. I assume you want to adjust because it isn't holding. If that's the case see this thread: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?83299-2014-RT-S-SE6-Parking-Brake-Adjustment.
To adjust the brake all you need is a 12 mm open end wrench. With the brake off:
1. Loosen the brake cable retaining nut (the one on the end of the cable housing).
2. Remove the cable tip (the metal loop at the end of the cable) from the tensioner arm and pull to get all the slack out of the cable. Then put the cable loop back on the tensioner arm.
3. Rotate the cable adjustment nut clockwise (as you are looking down the cable toward its end on the tensioner arm -- you are moving the nut aft). On a brand new cable, which you don't have, the nut is supposed to be turned 4 1/2 turns or 5.6 mm aft. Your adjustment will probably be a trial and error method to get the brake to hold but not so tight as to have the pad dragging on the disk.
4. Finger tighten the the cable retaining nut (make sure the cable remains fully seated in the support bracket. Test brake several times. To ensure my brake wasn't dragging I rode a good distance at interstate speed and then felt the disk. There was absolutely no heat from it; it was at ambient temperature
5. Once you have the brake holding properly tighten the retaining nut. Once tightened the minimum clearance between the retaining nut and the rubber part that protects the end of the cable should be 1 mm or .04".
My dealer tech saw that I had properly adjusted the cable but the brake wouldn't hold and so he said the actuator motor was defective and would be replaced under warranty. Hope this helps. Good luck!
To adjust the brake all you need is a 12 mm open end wrench. With the brake off:
1. Loosen the brake cable retaining nut (the one on the end of the cable housing).
2. Remove the cable tip (the metal loop at the end of the cable) from the tensioner arm and pull to get all the slack out of the cable. Then put the cable loop back on the tensioner arm.
3. Rotate the cable adjustment nut clockwise (as you are looking down the cable toward its end on the tensioner arm -- you are moving the nut aft). On a brand new cable, which you don't have, the nut is supposed to be turned 4 1/2 turns or 5.6 mm aft. Your adjustment will probably be a trial and error method to get the brake to hold but not so tight as to have the pad dragging on the disk.
4. Finger tighten the the cable retaining nut (make sure the cable remains fully seated in the support bracket. Test brake several times. To ensure my brake wasn't dragging I rode a good distance at interstate speed and then felt the disk. There was absolutely no heat from it; it was at ambient temperature
5. Once you have the brake holding properly tighten the retaining nut. Once tightened the minimum clearance between the retaining nut and the rubber part that protects the end of the cable should be 1 mm or .04".
My dealer tech saw that I had properly adjusted the cable but the brake wouldn't hold and so he said the actuator motor was defective and would be replaced under warranty. Hope this helps. Good luck!
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