Overheating - Redux

[TonyMac]

I searched the forum for "overheating" before posting this.

Maybe I'm just a worrier, took a short bus to school or there was Crack in my Cheerios, but if I'm not mistaken, the :spyder:is VERY prone to overheating or at least, riding very hot as registered on the heat gauge.

Granted, I've only had her for a week and I do live in South Texas and the weather has been high 90's to low 100's, but I'm about as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs every time I come to a long Texas stop light and watch as the engine temp meter hits 5, 6, or 7 bars as I'm trying not to cook the new motor. Actually 5 bars seems to be "normal" and I only run 4 on cool mornings or if not stressing the engine and 6 bars pop up all the time, even at highway speed. I'm trying to keep the break in miles on the open road, but you do have to cross city streets to get home hence the long lights and the high temperature readouts (can't avoid this).

My questions are; Is this normal? Should I be worried if it goes above 6 or 7 bars and my foot is hot? Do I need to replace the exhaust, wrap the pipe, etc.?

If my the heat gauge on my pick up truck so much as moved a little bit on a hot summer day in Texas while idling at a stop light for 30 minutes, I would scream bloody murder to the dealer. Why can't this vehicle maintain temperature? Or do I need to move to Minnesota?

Thanks, Tony

 

[zzneonzz]

I'm probably not a good one to answer this since i just got mine and started riding today. But it was 100 degree's here today and I only hit 6 bars once and that was when stopped by a 10 min train. Other than that i was staying at about 4 - 5 bars.

 

[dltang]

5 and 6 bars appears to be normal on hot days. There is terrible heat given off on the right leg. Some are wrapping their pipes to avoid this. Others have said this causes early deterioration of the pipes. Just sitting in the heat, the bars do seem to go up quite a bit. Changing out to a different exhaust has helped some run a bit cooler.

 

[sleepman]

3 weeks of riding it here in Florida and I've not seen over 5 bars on the heat gauge. As far as the hot foot, I have noticed my right foot is not as hot with an aftermarket muffler as opposed to the stock. Actually I find it to be a considerable difference.

 

[BRPjunkie]

Has BRP or anyone independently correlated actual temperatures to number of bars? Does 4 bars = 190, 5 bars = 200, 6 bars = 210? Is the transfer of data from the sensor to the display consistent enough from bike to bike to make comparisons across all bikes? From reports on the fuel sensor and display bars it sound like that is not consistent from bike to bike.

 

[Sopher]

I aimed my laser heat gun at various parts after riding my Spyder.

The header off the engine put the gun over the top at over 550deg. Measured on the left side where the heaser pipe is seen between the panels.

Various parts of the muffler on the side of the brake showed 350-450 deg.

Tail end of the Muffler showed 350deg.

 

[SpyderMark]

...but if I'm not mistaken, the :spyder:is VERY prone to overheating or at least, riding very hot as registered on the heat gauge. I'm trying to keep the break in miles on the open road, but you do have to cross city streets to get home hence the long lights and the high temperature readouts (can't avoid this). My questions are; Is this normal? Should I be worried if it goes above 6 or 7 bars and my foot is hot? Do I need to replace the exhaust, wrap the pipe, etc.?

AFAIK, no one knows how the number of bars on your temp gage correlates to actual engine temp. And even if we did, what's "too hot?" The SOG is mute on this subject. Your only guidance is not to sit in traffic with the fan running during break in, and to shut the engine down if the computer warns you of an overheat.

Your concern about keeping the heat down during break in is warranted -- it should be your PRIMARY concern right now. Excessive heat during break in can lead to all sorts of nasty problems down the road including excessive oil consumption, poor cylinder compression, loss of power/economy and an abbreviated life for your engine. My advice would be to NOT ride your Spyder to work (or otherwise around town) until you can get it broken in. Search this site for engine break in and you'll find lots of good advice on methodology. The manual gives no recommendations or restrictions on break in other than to keep the heat under control and avoid FULL throttle. This leaves you a great deal of latitude. You can complete a carefully planned and executed break in strategy in about five hours -- including an oil change afterward. Ride that thing out of town and BREAK IT IN!

If my the heat gauge on my pick up truck so much as moved a little bit on a hot summer day in Texas while idling at a stop light for 30 minutes, I would scream bloody murder to the dealer. Why can't this vehicle maintain temperature? Or do I need to move to Minnesota?

I believe you are getting yourself worked up for no reason. Comparing your Spyder's cooling system to your truck's is apples and oranges. It's all about capacity. Compare the size, fluid capacity, fans and ducting of the heat exchangers on your pickup and Spyder. If the Spyder's designers were able to size the heat exchanger and its associated systems with the same capacity per liter of engine size as your truck, then a comparison might be useful. Of course, in doing so, your Spyder's forward storage trunk would be a radiator...

The Spyder's engine is tightly cowled; the radiant heat it produces can only escape thru the open areas. Some of those areas are close to your body parts while you sit. Many seem to correlate the heat they feel as a defect with their Spyder's cooling system, despite no other indication of overheat (idiot light, limp mode, etc). I say if the thing is running without flashing lights at you there's nothing wrong with it!

The heat is bad in the summer, but will be good when cooler weather arrives. Then everyone will be taking the wraps off and looking for ways to keep warm! If you decide to wrap your pipes, replace your exhaust or any other take any other action regarding engine heat, do so for your own comfort, not because you think your Spyder is "broken."

Break that thing in, then ryde and enjoy it --and don't worry about the heat until the light comes on!

Regards,

Mark

 

[NancysToy]

Break that thing in, then ryde and enjoy it --and don't worry about the heat until the light comes on!

:agree::agree::agree:

 

[BRPjunkie]

Not sure what other "experts" have to say, but the current issue of Motorcycle Cruiser magazine has a tech question about temps and the response says that liquid cooled engines are at their best when the coolant is around 200 degrees. When it is cooler, power is reduced, emmissions increase and sludge and carbon form. That's why it would be nice to have BRP, a dealer or someone give us some idea of what the bars are telling us. Liquid cooled bikes that have no temp bars let their riders ride and assume all is well. Sometimes too much information is a distraction. I always rode my regular motorcycles 150 miles and then looked for a gas station. The darn fuel bars have me watching them all the time even though I now know to look for gas at 150 miles.

 

[TonyMac]

Your only guidance is not to sit in traffic with the fan running during break in, and to shut the engine down if the computer warns you of an overheat.

Your concern about keeping the heat down during break in is warranted -- it should be your PRIMARY concern right now.

I believe you are getting yourself worked up for no reason. Comparing your Spyder's cooling system to your truck's is apples and oranges.

I say if the thing is running without flashing lights at you there's nothing wrong with it!

Break that thing in, then ryde and enjoy it --and don't worry about the heat until the light comes on!

Regards,

Mark

Good advice. I've only had it a week and already have 350 miles on it so I should get to the first service really soon. Agree that it is not a fair comparison to a truck, just a little nervous about the heat sensitivity. Guess you guys are right that too much information makes you worry about stuff you don't need to.

So far the gauge has shown hot but no alarms so I'll keep it buzzing and try to avoid putting it into situations where it may overheat.

Thanks

 

[sabunim5]

Ken at Evoluzion posted the temps corresponding to the bars on the Spydertalk website some time ago if you would like to take a look. Your fan should be coming on at 5 bars and shutting off at 4. I ride almost daily in FL in town. 4 to 5 bars is normal for me in the summer with only an ocasional 6 bar reading. You sure don't want to see 7 bars, especially during break-in. Ryde Safe and Enjoy:thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:

 

[BRPjunkie]

Thanks for the directions to the other site. For anyone interested, Ken at Evolzione reports the following correlation of bars to temps:
1 = 153 deg
2 = 171 deg
3 = 183 deg
4 = 207 deg
5 = 223 deg
6 = 230 deg
7 = 237 deg

Certainly not linear.

 

[Big Bob]

V twins even liquid cooled like lots of air

All Vthe twins even the liquid cooled ones like lots of air going through the cooling system. I ride in temps of over 100 degrees on most days and when under 50mph I'm at 5 to 6 bars when going well over 50mph I'm at 4 bars. :spyder::yes:

 

[Zerocool]

I searched the forum for "overheating" before posting this.

Maybe I'm just a worrier, took a short bus to school or there was Crack in my Cheerios, but if I'm not mistaken, the :spyder:is VERY prone to overheating or at least, riding very hot as registered on the heat gauge.

Granted, I've only had her for a week and I do live in South Texas and the weather has been high 90's to low 100's, but I'm about as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs every time I come to a long Texas stop light and watch as the engine temp meter hits 5, 6, or 7 bars as I'm trying not to cook the new motor. Actually 5 bars seems to be "normal" and I only run 4 on cool mornings or if not stressing the engine and 6 bars pop up all the time, even at highway speed. I'm trying to keep the break in miles on the open road, but you do have to cross city streets to get home hence the long lights and the high temperature readouts (can't avoid this).

My questions are; Is this normal? Should I be worried if it goes above 6 or 7 bars and my foot is hot? Do I need to replace the exhaust, wrap the pipe, etc.?

If my the heat gauge on my pick up truck so much as moved a little bit on a hot summer day in Texas while idling at a stop light for 30 minutes, I would scream bloody murder to the dealer. Why can't this vehicle maintain temperature? Or do I need to move to Minnesota?

Thanks, Tony

I had a Hindle exhaust installed by the dealer before I picked it up. I rarely go above 5 bars, even in the 98 degree, 100% humidity we had. On short runs where I stay in 1st gear and rev to 6000-7000 it appears I can push the bars to 6; once to 7.

Since I bought it this way, I don't have a baseline to the stock muffler, but others have mentioned that the Hindle seems to lower the temp gage 1-2 bars from stock.

FWIW

 

[bjt]

I had a Hindle exhaust installed by the dealer before I picked it up. I rarely go above 5 bars, even in the 98 degree, 100% humidity we had. On short runs where I stay in 1st gear and rev to 6000-7000 it appears I can push the bars to 6; once to 7.

Since I bought it this way, I don't have a baseline to the stock muffler, but others have mentioned that the Hindle seems to lower the temp gage 1-2 bars from stock.

FWIW

I got the Hindle installed about a month after I got my spyder. The Spyder did run about 1 bar cooler with the Hindle than with the stock exhaust. With the Hindle, I have seen as high as 6 bars in an upper 90s day while stopped in traffic but it went back down to 4 or 5 bars once we got cruising again.

 

[AMTJIM]

If it's any consolation...my v-twin sportbikes usually ran about 190 on the road and about 225 when sitting at a light with the radiator fan running. Even with Water Wetter, it still runs warm...your thermostat takes care of the engine temp, it's going to try to open and close within it's design parameters to keep the engine at it's operational temperature.

 

[Smylinacha]

Well up in CT with weather in the high 80's and high humidity I am finding that I run 5-6 bars around town. If I can get on a road w/ no traffic and get her up to around 60, she seems to cool down at 4 bars. I don't put it in 5th gear unless I'm on the highway, going more than 60. It shifts better for me when I get her to 5000 rpms. I haven't overheated yet (knock on wood).:doorag:

 

[IdleUp]

Remember most all bikes are OK as long as they are moving - wrapping pipes and different mufflers is going to have little effect while sitting at a traffic light, it's a function of temperature, thermostat, and the fan efficiency.

I'm looking for a small 4" fan for the oil cooler on the left side, this would cool the core of the engine as well as move some air from the left compartment.

 

[aubierules]

"Your only guidance is not to sit in traffic with the fan running during break in, and to shut the engine down if the computer warns you of an overheat."



How noticeable is the fan...I rode yesterday...and was sitting at a red light...the spyder got up to 5 bars and i didnt notice the fan coming on....i know on my 4 wheeler its very loud when it comes on...and was on my ninja too....how bout spidey?

 

[The_Spyderwoman]

Ride that thing out of town and BREAK IT IN!

I believe you are getting yourself worked up for no reason.
The Spyder's engine is tightly cowled; the radiant heat it produces can only escape thru the open areas. Some of those areas are close to your body parts while you sit.

Break that thing in, then ryde and enjoy it --and don't worry about the heat until the light comes on!

Regards,

Mark

:agree::agree::agree: I've got 3000 miles on my spyder. It definately wants to go. If I cruz in the city it seems to be getting hot but the remarks from Mark apply. Don't ride in the city for a while take it out on the open roads - ride - smile - enjoy :2thumbs: :congrats: