Open frunk without key

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

How easy would it be for someone to open the frunk, specifically on an RT, without using a key? I'm thinking about hiding an emergency spare chip key in there somewhere and a plain key accessible outside but wondering how secure that scheme would be. Alternatively, how about the seat? Can it be released without a key, like with a wire or slim jim?

 

[jtoro1]

Its easy tie a cord from the release mechanism and run it to the oil cover if you need to open the frunk take the side cover off and pull the cord

 

[cabodan]

go and get a none chip key made and them get a climbers hook and clip it under the spyder on the frame there is a hole to clip there and them put your spare chip key in back trunk

 

[Bob Denman]

For the uninitiated: It's not that easy to open the frunk or seat... :shocked:
Don't worry about it! :thumbup:
I leave a dumb key in my glovebox... Most folks don't even know that it's there; hiding in plain sight!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

For the uninitiated: It's not that easy to open the frunk or seat... :shocked:
Don't worry about it! :thumbup:
I leave a dumb key in my glovebox... Most folks don't even know that it's there; hiding in plain sight!

I take it then you usually do not lock the handlebar.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Bob Denman]

Nope...
But then; street crime is absolutely non-existent out here! :2thumbs: :yes::yes::yes: nojoke

 

[Pennyrick]

How easy would it be for someone to open the frunk, specifically on an RT, without using a key? I'm thinking about hiding an emergency spare chip key in there somewhere and a plain key accessible outside but wondering how secure that scheme would be. Alternatively, how about the seat? Can it be released without a key, like with a wire or slim jim?

Simple matter to take a claw hammer, insert the claws dead center of the frunk and push the hammer forward. The plastic piece that the lock hooks into breaks away very easily. Had to open the frunk this way while on a trip and my wife locked her purse (and her keys) in the frunk.

Use a blank key and keep it in the glove box and secure the chipped key in your locked side or back cases.Those locks are harder to defeat. Better still, secure a chipped key somewhere difficult to find like in a case plastic-tied to something inside the tupperware that a side panel must be removed to get at. Another option is to just keep a spare key in your wallet or in a case pinned inside the lining of your jacket.

 

[revjvegas]

The seat can be very easily popped open using a long flat blade screw driver.
I had to do so when it would not open using the key because the cable had seized up.

 

[Bob Denman]

For the new bike...
I'll have a dummy key in the glovebox, AND a chipped spare in the top trunk; underneath the molded liner! :thumbup:
Here's a source for the chipped blanks...
http://www.motorcyclekeys.com/apriliachipkey.html

 

[NancysToy]

If someone wants to break into a plastic trunklid, it isn't too hard. Like most locks, this one only keeps out the honest people and lazy crooks. If you want real security, keep the saper key on your person. As Bob said, however, tthe trunk is safe enough for most people. If you want to keep the key a little more hidden, put it in a small container or envelope. Out of sight, out of mind.

 

[Jester]

I still use Lamont's IPS knob. Granted I am in a small town with only a few Spyders and usually leave my half helmet covering the IPS up. Even if they find it is a key, they still do not know how to crank it.:banghead:

Generally I am not too far away anyway.

 

[Dan_Ashley]

I had two non-chipped keys made. One for my pants pocket, the other for my wie's purse. I then "hid" a chipped key by using black duct tape and taped it to the bottom of the trunk. I can open the trunk with the non-chipped key, remove all the stuff in there, then get the chipped key out. I didn't even think of putting it in the frunk. I thought it would be harder to see with black duct tape in the bottom of the dark trunk hole.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks for the replies, guys. The main reason I was thinking of the frunk or seat is they are always locked. The rear trunk, saddlebags, and glove box all have to be actively locked, which I'm often too lazy to do! My rear trunk isn't dark anymore! I added an LED light to it. I will be writing it up with photos in a few days and posting it, showing what I did.

I may try to do something like I did on my Goldwing. I carried an innocuous looking allen wrench in the unlocked pocket. I used it to open up a passenger floor board where the spare key was hidden! Or, maybe I'll figure out some sort of lockbox using the trailer key barrel, which I don't plan to ever use as I have no intention of buying an RT trailer.

 

[Dan_Ashley]

Thanks for the replies, guys. The main reason I was thinking of the frunk or seat is they are always locked. The rear trunk, saddlebags, and glove box all have to be actively locked, which I'm often too lazy to do! My rear trunk isn't dark anymore! I added an LED light to it. I will be writing it up with photos in a few days and posting it, showing what I did.

I may try to do something like I did on my Goldwing. I carried an innocuous looking allen wrench in the unlocked pocket. I used it to open up a passenger floor board where the spare key was hidden! Or, maybe I'll figure out some sort of lockbox using the trailer key barrel, which I don't plan to ever use as I have no intention of buying an RT trailer.

Or maybe put a car magnetic key holder onto the oil tank. EZ for U. Tuff 4 a thief.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Or maybe put a car magnetic key holder onto the oil tank. EZ for U. Tuff 4 a thief.

I've looked at that possibility. Two concerns, heat and it's an awfully tight space between the tank and tupperware. And, to my of looking, not that well hidden once the panel is removed.

 

[Highwayman2013]

As was said on other threads, I hooked a wire from the frunk latch to the oil tank side cover. Pull the wire and the frunk opens but that extra key idea has merits as well.

 

[Bob Denman]

There was a member here, who hid a garage door opener in the chrome "Can Am" piece that sits on the side panel of the bike...
(The one you pulled in the past to check the oil...)

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have been considering the idea to obtain the oem electric solenoid for the front, and wire it with a hidden switch so it is fused buy always able to be powered without the key.

Was even considering maybe doing this for the seat. This way, no key is needed, if you know where the push button switch is located. It would save wear on cables and not require the extra effort to open stuff up.

As for the rear compartment lock, I should just get a third plain key made for the wife, then she can deal with that herself. Also, if she kept that key on her, it would give access to all other areas if something went wrong.

In regards to the programmed key, if the programmed key is left hidden on the machine, but not in a small metal case, wouldn't a plain non programmed key, fire the engine. I was under the ipression that these keys, like a car, were some form of transponder with a short range.

PK

I don't know for certain but I'm guessing the transponder range is only inches, at most, if even that far. The seat has a cable only, no electric actuator. A hidden button for the frunk opener is feasible, and will be cheaper. The actuator and mounting bracket, without microswitch guard plates, will set you back about $70+. The actuator switch is integrated into the parking brake switch and that is about $55. I found a switch for about $10 that fit the opening where the suspension switch would be and modified it, and the wiring harness, to serve as a momentary on-off button to operate to hood opener.

I've ordered a bunch of blank non-chip keys. The price is right. I plan to sell the extras for probably about $3 ea, shipping included. PM me if you want one or two. The ILCO X270 blank isn't readily available at usual retail key cutting places, and I don't find another equivalent brand.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

There was a member here, who hid a garage door opener in the chrome "Can Am" piece that sits on the side panel of the bike...
(The one you pulled in the past to check the oil...)

I bought a Clicker universal garage door opener, soldered a wire to the internal buttons, connected it to a momentary on - off - momentary on double pole switch. I have the door opener in the space down by the right front speaker and mounted the switch just under the right side of the handlebar. I can bring the bike into either of the two garage doors.

 

[whiteyron]

I don't know for certain but I'm guessing the transponder range is only inches, at most, if even that far. The seat has a cable only, no electric actuator. A hidden button for the frunk opener is feasible, and will be cheaper. The actuator and mounting bracket, without microswitch guard plates, will set you back about $70+. The actuator switch is integrated into the parking brake switch and that is about $55. I found a switch for about $10 that fit the opening where the suspension switch would be and modified it, and the wiring harness, to serve as a momentary on-off button to operate to hood opener.

I've ordered a bunch of blank non-chip keys. The price is right. I plan to sell the extras for probably about $3 ea, shipping included. PM me if you want one or two. The ILCO X270 blank isn't readily available at usual retail key cutting places, and I don't find another equivalent brand.

Pictures, sketches and instructions would be helpful.