My Dealer mechanic said only one oil plug needs drained to do an oil change. I took my 2024 RT Limited to the dealer I purchased it from for first 3000 miles oil change. I stepped into the shop and he had the right side up about 18 inches or so and showed me the magnetic plug. He said it only has one plug now. Is that true?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Only One Oil Plug on 2024 RT?
- Thread starter Spyderrg
- Start date
Mikey
Well-known member
Where the motor and trans share the same oil, you have two plugs one where he showed you and on the other side of the motor-trans on the left side. If I knew how to post pictures, I would show you a breakdown of them off the camam parts house site. It is a little concerning that your dealer's mechanic doesn't know that!!!
Woodaddict
Active member
Wow!! 2 plugs!! 1 x 6mm hex and 1 x 45mm torx. DON'T GO THERE AGAIN, find new dealer!
BajaRon
Well-known member
Wow! Just Wow!
I understand that they might feel that since they pulled the magnet side that it would show any abnormal wear, etc. But the engine side will drain more oil than the trans side. They are not changing your oil with this approach. They are just checking the magnet and the partial oil drain that is just a by-product of pulling that plug.
The drain plug they pulled is shown in Picture 1. The other (engine case) drain plug is shown in Picture 2. They are cutting corners, to say the least. And they are not being transparent about it. I don't know why they do this kind of thing. The customer can handle the truth. Just give it to them straight!
- 
I understand that they might feel that since they pulled the magnet side that it would show any abnormal wear, etc. But the engine side will drain more oil than the trans side. They are not changing your oil with this approach. They are just checking the magnet and the partial oil drain that is just a by-product of pulling that plug.
The drain plug they pulled is shown in Picture 1. The other (engine case) drain plug is shown in Picture 2. They are cutting corners, to say the least. And they are not being transparent about it. I don't know why they do this kind of thing. The customer can handle the truth. Just give it to them straight!
-
Last edited:
Thanks everybody. I will find another mechanic, or do my own oil change.
Just to clarify,
1. Crankcase plug is on the left side and should be removed first. Most oil will drain from this plug.
2. Clutch cover plug is on the right side. Clutch cover is magnetic.
Then remove the oil filter canister, so additional oil, a small amount will drain from the clutch cover plug.
Lot of YouTube vids on this. I just wanted the first oil change to be done at the dealer. Not again.
Just to clarify,
1. Crankcase plug is on the left side and should be removed first. Most oil will drain from this plug.
2. Clutch cover plug is on the right side. Clutch cover is magnetic.
Then remove the oil filter canister, so additional oil, a small amount will drain from the clutch cover plug.
Lot of YouTube vids on this. I just wanted the first oil change to be done at the dealer. Not again.
Mikey
Well-known member
You could be very right Ron, or they just don't what they're doing at all!! Thank you for posting the pictures, some day I'll figure that out.
JayBros
Well-known member
If you have not yet read in thorough detail, pages 131-134 of your Operator's Guide, that tells you how to properly check and change the oil in your Spyder, and that should be your first priority IMO. FWIW, many owners on this forum have swapped out the OEM crankcase and clutch cover plugs for hex headed ones, and that eliminates the risk of unintentionally using the wrong bit on the OEM plugs. There are several sources for such plugs. If you elect to continue using the OEM plugs you may find the threads on the crankcase plug are extremely sharp. In that case, when you change the O-rings on the plug I suggest wrapping painters tape on the threads to protect the new O-rings when installing them on the plug. Lastly, your Op Guide says to replace the O-rings and metal gaskets on each plug EACH time you change the oil. Many owners ignore the instructions to replace them. Such cheapness could be penny wisdom and pound foolishness, particularly with the crankcase plug.
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
It's unfortunate that your dealership is a bunch of jackwagons, and you found out the hard way.
If you are handy around a tool box, maybe you can gather up a few tools, a low profile oil drain pan, and do it yourself? It's really not bad at all. In fact, the 2nd time I did it, I couldn't believe how much attention this procedures gets from owners saying how difficult it is. But it's not hard!
Lamonster has the complete oil change kit + the tools needed to do it.
TheMariner
Active member
As Fatboy said, use the opportunity to change the drain plugs. The factory ones are aluminium... 1 with a hexagon socket and the other with a torx socket. Both have the nasty habit of rounding-out at some stage in the bike's life. Steel drain plugs that have male hexagon fittings for a normal spanner are inexpensive and available from lots of aftermarket sources, like Lamonster or BajaRon.
Albec
Active member
Care to name this dealer so that folks in the area can steer clear of their incompetence?
djh3
Member
+1 on replacing the oil plugs with the magnetic type one of our Forum guys has. Also I would recommend if your going to do your own stuff, get a torque wrench. Steel into aluminum can be bad if over torqued. I would recommend one that goes say 5 ft lb to 75 or 100. Should get most anything your going to tackle. Amazon has a very wide selection, for the occasional user dont get crazy.
JKMSPYDER
Active member
I would not be concerned about torquing the oil drain plugs. Just snug them up tight and use a new metal washer for both plugs. I have heard of owners breaking off drain plug heads by over tightening. I use the hex head plugs and just tighten snugly with my socket wrench. Have never had a leak.
Albec
Active member
One of the OEM drain plugs is already magnetic, at least on my F3.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Yes, as shown in the fiche screenshots of my previous post, the clutch side drain plug is magnetic. Why BRP doesn't spend the $0.02 to put a magnet on the other drain plug is beyond me. But there you are. It also tells you where BRP engineers think most of the ferrous wear material will be created. My guess is the metal clutch plates are the biggest offender.
Mikey
Well-known member
And not to mention they want to put two different head styles on the darn things!!!! Put a regular headed nut head on the darn things!!
JayBros
Well-known member
Look at from another perspective. Perhaps the engineers decided a T45 Torx and 6 mm Allen head plug were appropriate because they were for something special, and they are, for releasing a flood of oil from the engine. Why do some Spyder owners find the crankcase plug stripped out? Because some (insert your own word for idiot, moron, shade tree mechanic, etc.) stuck a wrong size Allen bit in a Torx bit requiring plug. Remember, Murphy was an optimist.
Similar threads
