One more tyme......back to the shop (black hole) she goes.

[dadof4]

I use the sissor jack that came with my Chrysler Town and Country. I place it under the "A" arm and lift one front wheels at a time. I do this when I give the Spyder a a good cleaning and I want to clean the inside of the front rims. Last week I loaded the Spyder on my trailer and by sheer dumb luck both of the front wheels were positioned so the valve stem was in the way of the ratchet straps. As I had already lower the front end of the trailer and folded and latched the ramp I used the jack. It took less 5 minutes to lift both sides and rotate the wheels. I use the same jack to lift the rear wheel.

 

[NancysToy]

You got lucky not using a jack to take the weight off the spring, Quite a few cams broke when a jack wasn't used,
Mine included.:shocked:

The 2011 RT has steel adjusting rings, so breakage is less likely...but jacking up is still specified in the manual. Spraing liberally with WD-40 before adjusting helps prevent breakage, to, and makes turing the adjusters a lot easier.

The air in the rear shock has to be preloaded so that the auto leveling can be used on the dash.

The RTS and LTD do not have to have the suspension pre-loaded. The compressor will fill the airbag on the intial fill. BTW, if pressures revert to zero after the initial fill, the system has a leak, and should be repaired.

 

[Wardawg]

wardawg,

You have other options. why not use them? It's worth it to ride to a dealer if they do a better job...plus you get to ride it there.

Where? I cannot travel miles and have my wife follow to pick me up, then bring me back when the byke is ready. Do I stay at the shop for 8 hours waiting? Will they even have it out in one day? TELL ME WHERE THIS KIND OF SUPPORT FOR A SPYDER IS IN NOVA? get to ryde it there? With it In limp mode? Don't think so...

 

[Wardawg]

The air in the rear shock has to be preloaded so that the auto leveling can be used on the dash. It will adjust up and down but if you only have 20psi in it at lowest setting then it will maintain that level. I would put at least 50 psi in and go from there. Front shocks set max, tires in the front is personal preference as I have tried them all and find 20 psi suits my needs. Rear pressure for tires to wear evenly across the tread should be lower then 28psi or the rear will wear in the center. I can not promise this for sure and can only give my observations and discussions with other owners that have lowered rear pressure from 28 to 23psi. I will try 24psi on my next tire and have my last 1000 miles set at 24 psi. I find it harder to spin my rear now so maybe it is sitting flatter? The front alignment is a must as well, even if you have to pay for it, I didn't because my dealer found it out of adjustment and I was low enough mileage so he covered it for me. Good luck!

thanks!

 

[daveinva]

Where? I cannot travel miles and have my wife follow to pick me up, then bring me back when the byke is ready. Do I stay at the shop for 8 hours waiting? Will they even have it out in one day? TELL ME WHERE THIS KIND OF SUPPORT FOR A SPYDER IS IN NOVA? get to ryde it there? With it In limp mode? Don't think so...

Wardawg: one option is to call or better visit a different Spyder dealer in the area (I gave you two-- Pete's Cycle up in Baltimore is a third, Fredericksburg Motor Sports is a fourth) and explain to them your problems. Just be your friendly self and walk them through how it rides, explain what the other techs told you (don't be judgmental, just the facts), and ask if they can offer a second opinion with same-day service (the latter being important-- you might have to "schedule" an appointment, and it might not be the most convenient of times, but this way you may be able to get in and get out).

If you *can* ride it not in limp mode, you can take it there, get it checked out, and take it home. If they think they can address it with more work, then yes, you may need a ride home, but you'll at least have some peace and mind after up and close and personal with a Spyder tech(s).

Also, while I'm uncertain about the area's Spyder dealers, many motorcycle dealers IME do local pick-up and deliveries for a nominal fee. Yes, it's money, yes it sucks, but it solves your transport problem.

But if you can't get a dealer to do it, I used this guy to transport my Spyder down from the dealer I bought it from up in Philly, and since then a friend of mine has used him to transport his ancient Suzuki to the shop:

http://www.dcscootertransport.com/

Owner's name is Tom, friendliest guy, he's very experienced and VERY helpful. He's also a little loud from not wearing earplugs . He'll do curbside pickup with his trailer and turn it around ASAP for a reasonable flat fee and mileage.

Again, good luck...

 

[FrankPa]

MotorSports in Hanover, PA

I fully recommend them. They will make an appointment and keep to it. Also, they did my 600mi service PLUS installed SpyderBob's exhaust shield and two cat shields for under $200.

Plus it's a beautiful ride from MD and/or No VA (if you go the back roads).

Regards-
Frank.

2011 Viper Red RT-S