• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Oil too low?

SocalT

Member
Checked my oil today and have a reading of "nothing" following the procedures in the manual. Can this be true with a no low oil light. How many quarts would it have to be low for it not to even register on the dipstick.
 
Checked my oil today and have a reading of "nothing" following the procedures in the manual. Can this be true with a no low oil light. How many quarts would it have to be low for it not to even register on the dipstick.

There is not much margin between the full and low marks on the dipstick, but I don't know the number of ounces. Since it is a short dipstick, if you get no reading, you have no idea about the oil level. Since I had trouble reading the dipstick, I took a 12" piece of plastic hanger and made a notch at 8" and another an inch lower to coincide with the marks on the short one. That way, if I'm not sure about the reading on the factory dipstick, I can stick the full length stick in and at least get a real read on how much oil is in the tank. Using a full dipstick lets you know that you may be down a few ounces, but certainly not quarts.
 
The "low oil" light is not low oil level, but low oil pressure. If you see it, your engine may already be damaged. You don't ever want to see that one! Checking the oil, using the prescribed procedure, is the only way to know your oil level. It is best to check after a ride. The engine should be at full operating temperature, not just three bars on the water temperature gauge after you idled the engine. It takes the oil and metal longer to warm completely. Also be sure you screw in the dipstick to check. This is different than other vehicles. If it is low, ad the oil slowly, and check frequently. It doesn't take much to raise it to the mark.
 
Low oil on a dry sump motor is not that critical as long as your not 3 quarts low. :lecturef_smilie:
 
Low oil on a dry sump motor is not that critical as long as your not 3 quarts low. :lecturef_smilie:
:agree: It is very odd that BRP wants to control it so closely. All I wish is that they would either substitute a longer dipstick, or put a sightglass in the oil tank. With a sightglass and a peephole in the plastic, like many faired bikes have, you could check the oil level quickly and efficiently.
 
:agree: It is very odd that BRP wants to control it so closely. All I wish is that they would either substitute a longer dipstick, or put a sightglass in the oil tank. With a sightglass and a peephole in the plastic, like many faired bikes have, you could check the oil level quickly and efficiently.
:agree:This is true of all the rice bikes I've ever owned.:ani29:
 
thanks

off to buy some oil and replace the obligatory lost grommet. They will be tie-wrapped next time:clap:
 
The difference between being a bit low and overfilled is very minute. Ask me how I know. Hubby and I took the bikes and went to Helen,Ga in June. He checked my oil and said it was a bit low. He bought a quart and proceeded to pour it in. After pouring about a half quart into the spyder I looked at him and said, "Should you be able to see the oil at the rim of the tank?" He looked at me with a dumbfounded look. We spent about a half an hour with a baby nasal aspirator sucking out a the "extra" half quart of oil I didn't need. Needlessly, after our trip I took the spyder for it's service and mentioned this to the tech, He sat there laughing and told me not to let hubby touch my bike. He even mentioned that unless the bike is truly low and you have a leak, don't add anymore. He only added the oil because the bike was running rough through the mountains. Since I finally got the second update it's been much better. I still am considering getting the JB though. Especially with the heat here I think the bike does run a bit too lean.

I still keep reminding hubby about the "oil" incident.
Joyce
 
Earlier this year, I made a 630 mile ride to Denver area and while there, had dealer check oil while he was looking at another problem. He also found none on the dip stick. It took almost 1/2 qt. to fill it up. I had chacked it prior to trip and it was just slightly below the full mark. I'd say the RT uses a little oil but it dosn't bother me. At least I know everything is getting lubed. I check the oil about every 300 miles now. Usually find I'm adding about 2/3 of a QT between 3000 mile oil changes. I'm like Scotty, wish they had a sight glass. I don't think it would be that had to install. Couple of fittings and a tube.
 
Oil Level

I check my oil after a ride as well because I want to have it at FULL operating temperature. One thing I find is that the oil in the tank is full of bubbles and I need to wait 20 to 30 seconds for the bubbles to go away. I let my RT idle for 30 seconds like recomended before shutting down but the oil is still foaming. I use a flashlight to look into the dipstick hole. Make me wonder about the quaulity of BRP Semi Synthetic ??? I have not had to add oil yet.
 
Back
Top