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Oil for 2011 rts se5?

Ghostpepper

New member
Hi...Getting ready to change the oil in my 2011 Rts se5. Was thinking of using Shell Rotella T6 5w-40. Has anyone used this oil? Recommendations? Thanks.
 
On our 2011 SM5 RT we used BRP synthetic for 76000 miles

We changed our own oil and used BajaRons filters, but used the XPS yellow bottle full synthetic for 76,000 miles and no clutch issues when we traded up to the 15 RT SE6 2 years ago.

Now I feel comfortable with the Rotella T6 on the 1330 SE6 clutch pack after 44,000 on a 15 RTS and getting close to that on our current bikes--oil analysis on the Rotella shows good protection although marginal visc after 6,000 miles of shear. Just our experience.
 
There are a number of owners on SL who report satisfactory use of Rotella T. AeroPilot is in the bulls-eye in his report of the oil's performance. The only way a user can tell how oil is performing is through analysis.
 
Should be fine.

A really LOT of bike owners use it in a wide variety of machines.

The exact kind of oil you use really is not THAT important.
 
Hi...Getting ready to change the oil in my 2011 Rts se5. Was thinking of using Shell Rotella T6 5w-40. Has anyone used this oil? Recommendations? Thanks.

I use Valvoline 4T Stroke Full Synthetic oil in my 2010 RT. I get it at Advance Auto for $6.99/quart and it has worked great. It has the 2nd lowest amount of moly with Amsoil being the lowest. I used Amsoil one year and while it worked good also, I had to add more oil throughout the season. I don't have to add that much using the Valvoline. Not sure if it was coincidence or what but mine seems to burn more Amsoil.

As far as the Rotella goes, some have used it but I would stay away from anything with a SM rating on it. The early clutches don't like the slippage that it causes.
 
I would recommend against using a Rotella oil in an SE5 Spyder. Great oil. But it will probably slip your clutch.
 
I would recommend against using a Rotella oil in an SE5 Spyder. Great oil. But it will probably slip your clutch.

I have been using Rotella 6T full synthetic 5w40 for for 10,000+ miles and no clutch slippage yet. It also has a JASO MA2. Zinc level is 1257 ppm. I also used Rotella 4T for many years in various motorcycles and no problems,but that is not a synthetic oil.

I also use Valvoline 4T 10w40 it is a very good oil. My next oil change will be with this oil. I also like Royal Purple Max Cycle. I have used it once and it seemed to do well easy shifting. YMMV
 
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I would recommend against using a Rotella oil in an SE5 Spyder. Great oil. But it will probably slip your clutch.

Is the clutch in a Spyder different than other bikes with a wet clutch ?

If not, then THOUSANDS of other bike owners would beg to differ with your recommendation.
 
Rotella T6 does not meet the requirements as stated in your owners manual. From personal experience it can cause the clutch to slip. There are lots of choices. Pick something else.
 

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Is the clutch in a Spyder different than other bikes with a wet clutch ?

If not, then THOUSANDS of other bike owners would beg to differ with your recommendation.

The SM5/SE5 Spyder has a very lubricant sensitive clutch and will slip with many very good oils that will otherwise work perfectly in most any other wet clutch application. The SM6/SE6 has a completely different clutch assembly and friction compounds which eliminates this issue.

Will the Rotella product make every SM5/SE5 clutch slip? I don't know. I just know several owners for which this has happened. If you catch it right away and change the oil there seems to be no problem. But many don't realize it is happening until it's too late and a new clutch has to be installed.

I didn't say DON'T DO IT! I just said I recommend against it for the reasons given.

There are a number of bullet proof, proven lubricants out there that will not have the potential to slip your SM5 or SE5 clutch. I'd recommend one of these alternatives.
 
Like Ron said..

I first tried the Rotella T6 on my Honda Aero wet clutch based on the recommendations of several of the posters on the Aero forum. It was a manual and I also changed out the clutch basket engagement springs to stronger Barnett springs, and its still running as far as I know (sold it to another rider at 36,000 miles).

I did read about some slipping issues on the earlier SE5 system and even though we had the manual clutch pack opted to used the BRP oil on that bike through our 76,000 mile use (traded for the 2015 SE6 RT-S. Since then we have been happy with the Rotella T6 on 3 of the 1330- SE6 bikes, but if I was to go back to the SE5, I would probably go back to the BRP oil, or maybe Amsoil. Just my 2 cents, your bike, your choice.
 
I didn't say DON'T DO IT! I just said I recommend against it for the reasons given.
Thank you for the detailed response.

Very often just simply stating "Don't do it." isn't enough.
Even if you provided a detailed explanation last year. :thumbup:

P.S. I personally think that trying to save a few pennies on things like oil and coolant is really not a wise thing to do.
If you can't really afford to keep a machine up properly, you shouldn't have it in the first place. :lecturef_smilie:
 
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Thank you for the detailed response.

Very often just simply stating "Don't do it." isn't enough.
Even if you provided a detailed explanation last year. :thumbup:

P.S. I personally think that trying to save a few pennies on things like oil and coolant is really not a wise thing to do.
If you can't really afford to keep a machine up properly, you shouldn't have it in the first place. :lecturef_smilie:

I run Rotella T6 in my 2 wheeler, and I wanted to use the same oil for both bikes but with a hit or miss in the SE5 clutches that I have read here, I just decided to stick with Amsoil. To me, the little extra in $$ just isn't worth the possible headache $$$ it could possibly cause. 2011 RTS SE5
 
I've decided to go with Valvoline or Castrol. Thanks again.

Statements like this worry me.

You MUST be sure that the oil you get is rated for use in motorcycles with wet clutches.
IE Motorcycle specific oil.

Both those companies make a lot of oil that is NOT compatible with a wet clutch.
 
Do you save that much ?

Reading all the replies here am wondering my self how much everyone saves by getting their oil for example at an auto parts store vs the dealer. Looked up my last oil change at the dealer and the kit cost $73.00 that is of course with BRP oil. I guess I am fortunate to have my dealer 10 minutes from the house. Just wondering? Thanks guys

Dave
 
The big savings will be in labor and convenience If you can do it yourself

Buy whatever oil you have determined to be best for your bike OR stick with the XPS oil as certified for your bike. After the second oil change you will be a Pro, and be able to change it and learn a lot about your bike. Just keep a spreadsheet to note the dates and miles of each change and you will earn the $100 and the feeling of confidence that comes with knowledge gained through experience. Just my 2 cents.
 
Thansk

Thanks Aero. How high do i have to lift it, will my old car ramps be tooo high? Thanks again
Dave



Buy whatever oil you have determined to be best for your bike OR stick with the XPS oil as certified for your bike. After the second oil change you will be a Pro, and be able to change it and learn a lot about your bike. Just keep a spreadsheet to note the dates and miles of each change and you will earn the $100 and the feeling of confidence that comes with knowledge gained through experience. Just my 2 cents.
 
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