Oil Extraction.

[Nobodyjj]

Coming from a boating situation, has anybody done oil extraction by suction on a 998. If done every other oil change would greatly keep the down time to a minimum. Thoughts and if anyone has tried it please give imput. Thanks

 

[Bob Denman]

I'm no mechanic; but why try to do the job quickly, when it's only takes a bit more time to do it right? :dontknow:
Boats are kind of designed to use your method: the Spyder really isn't...

 

[Nobodyjj]

Seeing that it is a dry sump motor seems to be a no brainer every other time for when the filters are changed out then.

 

[Bob Denman]

I'm not saying that it can't, or it shouldn't be done: I'm just saying that BRP did put some time and effort into figuring out the process...

 

[Nobodyjj]

Bob you are right but the pain of getting to the drains everytime is daunting all the time. Filler plug out, extractor in, a few pumps and warm oil in sump flows. Replace with same amount extracted. Filters next time around. Now the old oil debate... which BRP, Motol, Shell Rotella or Mobil 1. All synthetic of coause!
That should push enough buttons. lol

 

[Highwayman2013]

On the 1330 the oil changes are quite far apart (9,300 miles or 1 year). I would never change the oil without changing the filter.

 

[JayBros]

Your boating situation may deal with an engine that has a wet sump, i.e., oil pan situation wherein you stick the vacuum pump suction tube down the dipstick tube and empty oil the whole sump. Based on reading the instructions for changing the oil in a 2015 RS the operator's guide, it says to drain both the oil tank and the engine by removing their respective oil drain plugs. Viewing the parts diagrams for the engine lubrication and oil systems I doubt one can do a thorough oil change with a vacuum pump; there's just no way to snake the suction tube where it needs to go in the dry sump engine. How much dirty oil is left in the whole engine lubrication and tank/radiator system when you do an oil change would be a WAG. With the oil change interval being 4,600 miles it is, IMO, smartest to do the whole job every time.

 

[blacklightning]

I am by no means very mechanical. But I found changing oil in my 2012 RSS to be pretty easy. Nothing really was in the way, and I was able to do it in no time. But I am not a fan of suctioning oil out of an engine compared to being able to drain it. Too much of a chance of leaving sludge in the bottom.

 

[Bob Denman]

No matter how you do it: clean oil is always better! :thumbup:

But the same thing goes for filters as well.

 

[Chupaca]

Choices, choices

You can but agree with others as to is it really worth it. I always change oil and filter at the same time. Once you do one change it becomes much easier. I remove more than needed but get a chance to check and clean other areas otherwise never looked at. :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

I've never been a fan of suction, though I know it is done and, I assume, successfully. But there is no way to get the oil storage compartment as clean or as empty with suction as it will be with a good, old fashioned, hot oil drain where the flow tends to wash out any heavier components laying at the bottom of the pan or reservoir. This is especially so with a dry sump system where you would be leaving (in my mind) a substantial amount of old oil just waiting to contaminate all that new, fresh oil.

Oil is the lifeblood of any engine. And while it is true that the average motorcycle owner will never wear an engine out. I just like to treat my stuff well.

Leaving the filters in also leaves an amount of old oil in the system. Even if the filters do not need to be changed. It's just worth it to me to get that oid oil out. And, while I am there, put a new filter in. I run Amsoil (which I get tested). I am able to run further on an oil service than the recommended change interval and still have better protection than with BRP oil. So getting it good and clean with new filters seems reasonable to me.

Everyone has a different idea and it's your ride. You should treat it whatever way you think best. I don't mind a bit more effort to do it the best way I can.

 

[Bob Denman]

What he said... :agree: :clap:

 

[Sarge707]

The only time I extract 2 quarts is after I have done a oil change in Nov and come July I have 3,000 miles on the change I will extract 2 quarts and add 2 fresh quarts to freshen up the viscosity before I change it again in Nov at around 5,500 miles. This is NOT necessary BUT I care about the engine and treat it that way. I would NOT use it in place of a oil change!

 

[Nobodyjj]

OK convinced Amigos. So Baja Ron what weight Amsoil you use?

 

[Bob Denman]

Asking Ron about oil is a very wise thing to do... :clap::2thumbs::firstplace:

:shocked: Ron knows... nojoke

 

[canamjhb]

When I was a new Spyder owner, A "service advisor" at a local dealership convinced me that doing a suck-job was perfectly OK. He told me the filters only needed to be changed every other time. Doing a suck-job would save a lot of shop time and save me $$$$$. He also told me that doing this procedure would not have any adverse effect on my warranty. So, I went ahead and followed his advice. After getting home and thinking about this, I contacted BRP and asked if this would, in fact, effect my warranty. They responded that oil AND filter needed to be changed every year or 9,300 miles. I went back to the dealership and spoke with the Service Manager. They did a COMPLETE oil/filter change for no additional charge. BTW, that "service advisors'" employment with the dealership did not survive.

 

[BajaRon]

OK convinced Amigos. So Baja Ron what weight Amsoil you use?

I use Amsoil MCF 10w/40 fully synthetic. What a lot of people don't know is that most 'Synthetic' oil is simply Dino or standard mineral oil with an additive package. Amsoil, and a few others, are actually engineered at the molecular level at the refining stage. A more expensive process but gives a better result. Both are designated 'Synthetic'. With the customer none the wiser.

When I was a new Spyder owner, A "service advisor" at a local dealership convinced me that doing a suck-job was perfectly OK. He told me the filters only needed to be changed every other time. Doing a suck-job would save a lot of shop time and save me $$$$$. He also told me that doing this procedure would not have any adverse effect on my warranty. So, I went ahead and followed his advice. After getting home and thinking about this, I contacted BRP and asked if this would, in fact, effect my warranty. They responded that oil AND filter needed to be changed every year or 9,300 miles. I went back to the dealership and spoke with the Service Manager. They did a COMPLETE oil/filter change for no additional charge. BTW, that "service advisors'" employment with the dealership did not survive.

You can do this and probably get away with it. But not a good policy. Especially long term. Glad you did your homework. It's not always best to take the dealerships word for something.

 

[2dogs]

When I was a new Spyder owner, A "service advisor" at a local dealership convinced me that doing a suck-job was perfectly OK. He told me the filters only needed to be changed every other time. Doing a suck-job would save a lot of shop time and save me $$$$$. He also told me that doing this procedure would not have any adverse effect on my warranty. So, I went ahead and followed his advice. After getting home and thinking about this, I contacted BRP and asked if this would, in fact, effect my warranty. They responded that oil AND filter needed to be changed every year or 9,300 miles. I went back to the dealership and spoke with the Service Manager. They did a COMPLETE oil/filter change for no additional charge. BTW, that "service advisors'" employment with the dealership did not survive.

In my, and other SL's experiences (confirmed by a number of posts), many can am service managers/advisors are no more or less knowledgeable about the inner workings of a spyder than a salesman. It may take years for a dealership to recover from the irreparable harm that a poor/dishonest service manager can cause. Because the problem seems to be so widespread, when I suspect a service manager is not being factual, I seek opinions from other more trusted sources. Over the years I've caught more than a couple of service managers expounding false knowledge, and when they realize they're caught; they most often get mad and start deflecting responsibility onto someone else or convert the issue to being the customer's error. So,,,,, if you feel you feel you been a victim of a dishonest service person, get on this site and ask for help. There are many (too many to list) honest and trustworthy individuals here who keep an eye on this site and come to the aid of other spyder owners who need or ask for it.

 

[Bfromla]

:lecturef_smilie:Only IF too much was accidentally added, & some needs removed to get at correct level.
Otherwise drain & change everything every time for all the extra nastiness that can hide inside. Boat motors design does not really allow for a drain method, so suck works fine. Your not saving any time (or $$) if it ends up leaving you stuck on road:gaah::lecturef_smilie:opcorn:

 

[PW2013STL]

I would never suck the oil out. I'm too old and my lungs just could not handle it.