Oil Changes - Does it need to be off the ground?

[coastrider]

Brand new Spyder RT owner here. I've always done my own work, and would like to do my oil changes on the RT after the 600 service. Does the Spyder need to be off the ground to access the drain plugs? I already have a Pitbull lift. Will it work on the Spyder? Are any special tools required? Thanks in advance for the info!

 

[NancysToy]

You don't need to raise the Spyder if you have a low enough drain pan. Your Pitbull lift should work fine if you do decide to raise the Spyder. I would recommend hex sockets of the correct sizes, a couple of different ratchet extensions, a ratchet and an appropriately sized ratcheting torque wrench (not the beam type). You may wish to also have your favorite tool for the Torx bits for panel removal.

 

[Dudley]

To get the Spyder just a bit more off the ground, I use three 2X6, one foot lengths of wood, back the Spyder up on them and get ample ground clearance for the oil pan and tool uses.

 

[oldgoat]

I ran the front of my Spyder up onto 2 car ramps. Much easier on the old bones. Left it in gear, had the parking brake on & put a wedge behind the rear tire.

 

[retread]

One suggestion, when you take the drain plugs out, it's okay to use a hex key socket, to be on the safe side, put the plugs back in with the hex key that's in the original tool kit, less chance of stripping it that way.

john

 

[MarkLawson]

The drain plugs are apparently made from a relatively soft metal. Make sure your allen wrench is fully inserted before loosening or tightening to reduce the risk of stripping the hex hole. There are aftermarket drain bolts made of much stronger metal and using the more traditional hex bolt head design. You might consider replacing them at some point to prevent the problems others have had with the original drain plugs.

 

[coastrider]

Great tips, thanks everyone. One thought, if you drive the front up on car ramps, wouldn't it prevent the oil from draining completely?

 

[SpyderFun]

The drain plugs are apparently made from a relatively soft metal. Make sure your allen wrench is fully inserted before loosening or tightening to reduce the risk of stripping the hex hole. There are aftermarket drain bolts made of much stronger metal and using the more traditional hex bolt head design. You might consider replacing them at some point to prevent the problems others have had with the original drain plugs.

There are also some that have a built in magnet to attract any ferrous metals. This will give you an idea of the wear going on in the inside.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Great tips, thanks everyone. One thought, if you drive the front up on car ramps, wouldn't it prevent the oil from draining completely?

I was wondering the same thing.

 

[Tierhog]

I used an atv ramp and jack stands myself

 

[Tierhog]

Or take your chances and center the atv jack and go for it.. Carefully. I did that too. Don't over torque your oil filter cap please

 

[MarkLawson]

Great tips, thanks everyone. One thought, if you drive the front up on car ramps, wouldn't it prevent the oil from draining completely?

I use car ramps for the fronts and a floor jack to raise the rear.

 

[modagwood]

changing oil

for those of you that change your own oil, where do you buy your filters, from a brp dealer, or after market, and where, and what brand. THanks

 

[Mowerman]

for those of you that change your own oil, where do you buy your filters, from a brp dealer, or after market, and where, and what brand. THanks

I get my filters from Bajaron. Site sponsor and great guy to deal with

 

[MikeinGA]

To get the Spyder just a bit more off the ground, I use three 2X6, one foot lengths of wood, back the Spyder up on them and get ample ground clearance for the oil pan and tool uses.

:agree: It's one of safes ways work.

 

[Wright2743]

I get my filters from Bajaron. Site sponsor and great guy to deal with

:agree::2thumbs:

 

[Pampurrs]

I like this idea, but just curious..... does the oil drain out completely when its angled up like that? I just got my Spyder and I do my own oil changes also, so I'm interested.

I ran the front of my Spyder up onto 2 car ramps. Much easier on the old bones. Left it in gear, had the parking brake on & put a wedge behind the rear tire.

 

[900Dave]

I like this idea, but just curious..... does the oil drain out completely when its angled up like that? I just got my Spyder and I do my own oil changes also, so I'm interested.

I want it level! I do the same thing with the 2x6, after I drive the front up the ramp I jack up the back and put blocks under the rear tire the same hight as the front.

 

[JayBros]

I ran the front of my Spyder up onto 2 car ramps. Much easier on the old bones. Left it in gear, had the parking brake on & put a wedge behind the rear tire.

Did the same thing and had more than adequate clearance to get the drain plugs out, back in and torqued to spec.

One suggestion, when you take the drain plugs out, it's okay to use a hex key socket, to be on the safe side, put the plugs back in with the hex key that's in the original tool kit, less chance of stripping it that way.
john

FWIW, the drain plugs on my 2014 RT-S are T45 for the oil drain plug and 6 mm Allen for the transmission plug. I prefer to use the proper tool to fit the plug. YMMV.

 

[JayBros]

Great tips, thanks everyone. One thought, if you drive the front up on car ramps, wouldn't it prevent the oil from draining completely?

I thought the same thing too but looking both at the engine sitting in the Spyder and at the parts diagrams, the plugs are at the aft edge of the engine/trans and the engine drains completely with only the front wheels off the ground. The proof of the pudding was in refilling the engine with the required 5.0 quarts of oil; the oil level was right where it should be on the dipstick -- at the Min mark -- when engine is at proper operating temperature. (Remember the quantity change posted last fall or check the 2015 Owner's Guide.)