Oil change Question

[Jheck]

Last September before we left for the winter for Arizona, I had my 2014 RTS serviced as I always do. Than put away for the winter. Oil change,Buds check, new rear brake pads. This year with the mad dash home because of the Covid and my wife has had some health issues, I haven’t even put 1000 miles on it.
The manual says 9300 miles or 1 year to change the oil. But it seems a waste to dump the oil with only maybe 600 miles on it. So I’m asking for opinions. Should I go ahead and have it changed?. Or would it be ok to let it go another year? Will it harm the engine if I don’t have it changed? I’ve got to make a decision pretty soon cause cold weather is coming. Thank you for your replies in advance.

 

[RICZ]

Normally, you don't want an engine to remain idle with old oil due to the acid it accumulates. In your case, with so few miles on it, you get a pass from that rule. Never, never start an engine during hibernation unless you are going for ride for over a half hour. Let it sit until then.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Last September before we left for the winter for Arizona, I had my 2014 RTS serviced as I always do. Than put away for the winter. Oil change,Buds check, new rear brake pads. This year with the mad dash home because of the Covid and my wife has had some health issues, I haven’t even put 1000 miles on it.
The manual says 9300 miles or 1 year to change the oil. But it seems a waste to dump the oil with only maybe 600 miles on it. So I’m asking for opinions. Should I go ahead and have it changed?. Or would it be ok to let it go another year? Will it harm the engine if I don’t have it changed? I’ve got to make a decision pretty soon cause cold weather is coming. Thank you for your replies in advance.

I would just drain it well, leave the current filter in and then re-fill with new oil...... good luck ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Greven]

600 miles, the oil should be fresh! I would store it during the winter, and drive the entire next season and not worry a bit!

 

[BajaRon]

I'd ride it with no worries. The 1 year rule is more of a CYA for the manufacturer than a necessity with modern oils.

 

[ButterSmooth]

Dinosaur oils are the reason for the 1 year change interval. Bob the oil guy says paraffin settles out of the oil and even new oil on the shelf times out. It is NOT an issue with synthetic oil. What matters is the Total Base Number of the oil, which measures the oil's ability to neutralize acid. If you're freaked out about it, send a sample to Blackstone Labs and find out what the TBN is. I don't think anybody runs Dino oil in modern engines. I wouldn't give it a seconds thought with synthetic oil.

 

[2dogs]

With only 600 miles shut her down for the winter and fire her up in the spring and ride her like she just had a fresh oil change.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

But it seems a waste to dump the oil with only maybe 600 miles on it. So I’m asking for opinions. Should I go ahead and have it changed?. Or would it be ok to let it go another year?

I will state absolutely and unequivocally it would be a waste to dump it. Don't change it.

Read this thread of my experience with extended times between changes and oil analysis results and you'll understand why I say that. Read it carefully and with an open mind. As you already have read there are many, if not most, members who will not agree with me. Compare their comments against my lab results.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?120162-Oil-Analysis-results-green-OK-check-mark!

 

[NoahMercy]

I agree with ButterSmooth about the dino-vs.-synthetic aspect. Some seasons I get fewer than 3,000 miles on my two-wheeler, and since I never change until I have 6-7,000 on the oil, and it winters in a garage that sees temps over 100 F to -35 F, I use full synthetic.

 

[Highwayman2013]

No need to change the oil. It will be fine.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I will state absolutely and unequivocally it would be a waste to dump it. Don't change it.

Read this thread of my experience with extended times between changes and oil analysis results and you'll understand why I say that. Read it carefully and with an open mind. As you already have read there are many, if not most, members who will not agree with me. Compare their comments against my lab results.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?120162-Oil-Analysis-results-green-OK-check-mark!

Not that I really disagree with it being a bit of a waste for the OP to dump their oil after only 600 miles-ish.... but Idaho, you need to remember that YOUR style of ryding on YOUR Spyder in the ambient temps and conditions that YOU experience may well mean that YOUR oil analysis/lab results are most likely going to be somewhat different to anyone else's! nojoke It's probably a bit of a stretch and somewhat more of a risk to think that YOUR results should be anything more than an indication of the potential lab results for anyone else. Worth noting, sure, but I certainly wouldn't bet the farm on anyone else's oil analysis results being all that close, let alone identical! :lecturef_smilie:

Still, if Jheck is the least bit concerned, while the cost of an extra oil change is pretty small when compared with the potential cost if something fails without said change, I'd think the risk of that occurring really IS a fair bit smaller. :dontknow:

 

[bigbadbrucie]

Don’t know prices where you live, but take a $30,000 or $20,000 machine vs the price for an oil change, not even 1%. What’s to think about? If it was me, I’d dump it. jmho wtfdik

 

[ButterSmooth]

Just another thought. That first start up with an empty filter (after an oil change) will likely put more wear on your powerplant than the 'old' oil ever could. I avoid dry start oil changes whenever I can.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Just another thought. That first start up with an empty filter (after an oil change) will likely put more wear on your powerplant than the 'old' oil ever could. I avoid dry start oil changes whenever I can.

You can mitigate that to a great extent by holding the throttle full open and hold the starter button for, say, 10 to 20 seconds. Holding the throttle full open turns off the fuel supply so the engine won't start. Cranking the engine for that time will pressure up the oil system. But all that is unnecessary as, IIRC from reading the service manual, the oil goes from crankcase to the pump to all the bearings. Separate pumps move the oil from the crankcase thru the filter to the reservoir. That means the engine does not actually run at all without oil in the bearings.

 

[RudyB]

No just ride it and change oil when you get 9200 miles no harm will occur

 

[stmike 1800]

Mine is almost as bad ,I have done 3 oil changes in 18,000 KM . Sure seems a waste but will continue to change every fall .As to the opp i would say you are good till next fall .

 

[troop]

Dumping out 600 mile oil is like dumping out $$. Total waste of good oil. Make your last ride long enough to fully heat up the oil. Add some fuel stabilizer before that last ride. Get home, park it, shut it off, connect a battery tender, cover it up and say good bye till next season..

 

[Jheck]

Thanks everyone for your replies. With so little miles I think I’m just going to wait till next year for service. Hopefully next year will be better.

 

[bigbadbrucie]

G

Thanks everyone for your replies. With so little miles I think I’m just going to wait till next year for service. Hopefully next year will be better.

It’s your Spyder and you’re money. Your best option is to do what YOU’RE most comfortable with.

 

[carbonation]

Dinosaur oils are the reason for the 1 year change interval. Bob the oil guy says paraffin settles out of the oil and even new oil on the shelf times out. It is NOT an issue with synthetic oil. What matters is the Total Base Number of the oil, which measures the oil's ability to neutralize acid. If you're freaked out about it, send a sample to Blackstone Labs and find out what the TBN is. I don't think anybody runs Dino oil in modern engines. I wouldn't give it a seconds thought with synthetic oil.

No. Simply not true.