SteveandBelinda
Member
I am getting a 2014 RT Limited with 2600 miles on it. No maintenance has been done on it yet. At what mileage do I need to change the oil, and what point is maintenance check suggested, and what do they do at those intervals.
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Oil Change Mileage on a 2014 RT Limited
- Thread starter SteveandBelinda
- Start date
Do the first oil change at 3000 miles, then isn't it every 9,000 miles from there?? Someone with one of the 1330 powered Spyders will tell you soon I'm sure, they didn't need servicing as often as the V-Twins!
Bam Bam and Pebbles
New member
Peter is correct. 3K for the first oil change and 9K or 9300 miles on subsequent changes. Congrats on the new bike.
Bob Denman
New member
:congrats: on the bike! :clap: :2thumbs: :nopic:
SteveandBelinda
Member
Haven't gotten it yet. Have agreed to price, and will be picking up Tuesday or Wednesday and driving 900 miles home. Will post some pics when I get home. Other thing that I wanted to know, is I hear people talk about a 600 mile service check, a 3000 mile service check, and so on.
Are these needed to keep up the extended warranty? I am sure it is for checking belt tension, and other maintenance items during break in. I don't like paying for stuff I can do myself. Was going to do oil changes myself, or is there any reason I should let a dealership do the first one.
Are these needed to keep up the extended warranty? I am sure it is for checking belt tension, and other maintenance items during break in. I don't like paying for stuff I can do myself. Was going to do oil changes myself, or is there any reason I should let a dealership do the first one.
beefybudds
New member
If your buying from a dealer have them do the 3000 mile check up before you drive home. If your not buying from a dealer then find a dealer as close to the point of purchase and have them do the 3000 service. The oil is over 2 years old and for a piece of mind I would get it out of the motor asap. 3000 mile service should cost you around $300.
Also congrats.
SteveandBelinda
Member
Problem is, I don't have time to find a dealer. I leave with bike (hopefully) Wednesday morning, and have to drive it 900 miles back home in time for my daughters wedding rehearsal Thursday evening at 6. Will change right after wedding next Sunday. Hope this will work. Would like to change also, but don't have wiggling room, timewise.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Post #4 and #8 gives best information so far. :thumbup: :congrats:
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SteveandBelinda
Member
Do you think that it would be bad to drive it back without that oil being changed, or do you think it would be fine till I got home with it? That would put it at 3500 miles. It may have the same oil in it from new, but some people don't put that many miles on theirs' for that long. Don't really want to take any chances with the engine, if it is really a bad idea. Will call a dealer Monday and see what their opinion is.
PaladinLV
New member
If you 'Don't really want to take any chances with the engine', you really should do everything you can to get that oil change done BEFORE you ride it back!! Besides acting to cool & lubricate the moving bits of your engine, Oil collects contaminants that are produced during the combustion cycle as well as some that come from 'metal on metal' wear (especially during the 'bedding in' process), and it also absorbs moisture & collects condensation from the free air inside the sump & crankcase etc - so it doesn't just need changing because of the number of miles it's been in the engine, it also needs changing because of the length of time it's been in the engine!! Since the oil in these things is meant to be changed at 3000 miles OR 1 Year, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST, the oil in that engine is well past its need for a change on one count & gonna be past it on the other by the time you get home!!! So how lucky are you feeling??! :sour:
Oh, & since the 3000 mile oil change is the very FIRST scheduled change for the 1330's, there's a good chance that it's got a little more 'worn metal' contaminants in it simply due to the fact that during the 'bedding in' process there are likely to have been a few moving components that weren't an exact fit that've now been bedded/worn in to their final operational fit & tolerances. There may also have been just a little 'less than optimum grade oil' used as assembly lube when the engine was put together so the first load of oil generally doesn't hold its shear properties for quite as long as it will once you get on in miles, hence the shorter oil change interval the first time around. And if the engine hasn't been running for a couple of hours each week throughout its life, ie, running long enough to heat it up to operating temps properly & then continuing to run at those temps for long enough to evaporate out all the condensate that DOES collect in the crankcase & sump etc as the engine stands each week, then it quite likely has more 'less than ideal lubricant' contaminants in there too!! So I ask you again, How Lucky are you feeling?? :shocked:
Still, if the Spyder had been first oiled & then started up less than 12 months ago, then during its working life it was run regularly for an hour or so each week after it all got up to operating temps, & it's 3000 miles was gonna be just a couple of hundred overdue after you got home, then sure, I reckon it might be worth risking holding off on that change.... Buuut, since it's probably 12 months or more past its first scheduled oil change, + you have no idea of how often it was ridden or for how long it was ridden each time either (for all you know it coulda been sitting there collecting condensate for more than 12 months since it was last run for more than an hour or so), & + the oil change will be well overdue in terms of miles by the time you get it home, I reckon that if it was me, I'd be doing whatever it took to at least swap out the oil for new stuff once I'd collected it & before leaving for home!!
If you can't find the time or a place to do a full-on 'oil & filter' change before you head for home after collecting it, at least try to find the time to drain the oil & refill the engine with new stuff of the correct spec & qty - by doing that you will have significantly reduced & diluted the oil's contaminant load, even if you didn't change the filter! Besides, you can always do a full & proper 'oil & filter' change once you get home, can't you?!? Who cares if that means you throw away some oil that's only done 1000 miles or so, oil is a helluva lot cheaper than a new engine isn't it?? And really, it all boils down to 'How Lucky are you feeling??' Can you ignore the need for an oil & filter change until you get home; sure, you might get away with it, but will you ever know what potential damage has been done inside the engine?? Probably not; at least not until things start to go wrong in there - and since it's a fairly high tech motor in a fairly unique vehicle from a fairly 'specialised' manufacturer, it's very likely that any repair or replace the engine bill probably won't be little!! Then you'll really kick yourself for not bothering to find the time & the relatively few bucks it'd take to change out the oil before riding it home, won't you!! :yikes:
Your call! I wouldn't!! :thumbup:
Oh, & since the 3000 mile oil change is the very FIRST scheduled change for the 1330's, there's a good chance that it's got a little more 'worn metal' contaminants in it simply due to the fact that during the 'bedding in' process there are likely to have been a few moving components that weren't an exact fit that've now been bedded/worn in to their final operational fit & tolerances. There may also have been just a little 'less than optimum grade oil' used as assembly lube when the engine was put together so the first load of oil generally doesn't hold its shear properties for quite as long as it will once you get on in miles, hence the shorter oil change interval the first time around. And if the engine hasn't been running for a couple of hours each week throughout its life, ie, running long enough to heat it up to operating temps properly & then continuing to run at those temps for long enough to evaporate out all the condensate that DOES collect in the crankcase & sump etc as the engine stands each week, then it quite likely has more 'less than ideal lubricant' contaminants in there too!! So I ask you again, How Lucky are you feeling?? :shocked:
Still, if the Spyder had been first oiled & then started up less than 12 months ago, then during its working life it was run regularly for an hour or so each week after it all got up to operating temps, & it's 3000 miles was gonna be just a couple of hundred overdue after you got home, then sure, I reckon it might be worth risking holding off on that change.... Buuut, since it's probably 12 months or more past its first scheduled oil change, + you have no idea of how often it was ridden or for how long it was ridden each time either (for all you know it coulda been sitting there collecting condensate for more than 12 months since it was last run for more than an hour or so), & + the oil change will be well overdue in terms of miles by the time you get it home, I reckon that if it was me, I'd be doing whatever it took to at least swap out the oil for new stuff once I'd collected it & before leaving for home!!
If you can't find the time or a place to do a full-on 'oil & filter' change before you head for home after collecting it, at least try to find the time to drain the oil & refill the engine with new stuff of the correct spec & qty - by doing that you will have significantly reduced & diluted the oil's contaminant load, even if you didn't change the filter! Besides, you can always do a full & proper 'oil & filter' change once you get home, can't you?!? Who cares if that means you throw away some oil that's only done 1000 miles or so, oil is a helluva lot cheaper than a new engine isn't it?? And really, it all boils down to 'How Lucky are you feeling??' Can you ignore the need for an oil & filter change until you get home; sure, you might get away with it, but will you ever know what potential damage has been done inside the engine?? Probably not; at least not until things start to go wrong in there - and since it's a fairly high tech motor in a fairly unique vehicle from a fairly 'specialised' manufacturer, it's very likely that any repair or replace the engine bill probably won't be little!! Then you'll really kick yourself for not bothering to find the time & the relatively few bucks it'd take to change out the oil before riding it home, won't you!! :yikes:
Your call! I wouldn't!! :thumbup:
JayBros
Well-known member
I'm a little anal about oil changes but I agree with Peter. The oil is OLD. You're sinking a big bunch of dough in a Spyder that has a very reliable new design engine. If your physical endurance is up to it from a safety standpoint I'd make arrangements to get it changed before the ride home even if it meant longer days in the saddle to get there. Take frequent breaks, stay hydrated and roll on. Good luck.
beefybudds
New member
At least buy 5 quarts of amsoil and drain the oil b4 you drive it home. Like others have said the oil is over 2 years old and for for a piece of mind the $70 in oil is worth it.
But if you got the Spyder for $10,000 you have saved the difference from the $20,000 it's probably worth to make major repairs if any occur.
SteveandBelinda
Member
Yea, I think that I am going to see if I can get a rush appointment oil change there. There is a dealer about 17 miles from the bike. If they can't get to it right away, I guess I will leave it with them, fly home, and then take a bus back down in about a week and pick it up. Alot more cost buying another plane ticket home, then back again, but I don't want to take chances with such an expensive machine, and I will for sure be back for my daughters wedding rehearsal on Thursday, a day and a half after I purchase it.
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