• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Oil Change. How Important Is Temperature?

My manual says there is an oil drain plug for the sump cover and one for the clutch cover. Do either of these correlate with the crankcase and the reservoir you noted? If not, where is the engine oil stored that is drained by the clutch cover plug and how does it fit into your example? Thanks

We call the 'Sump Cover' the oil pan. Not exactly correct, technically. But a Rose by any other name... There is a drain on the clutch cover. But the amount of oil it retains is so small that it isn't worth the effort to pull it. Everyone ignores this one. And most don't even know it exists. Not a problem.
 
We call the 'Sump Cover' the oil pan. Not exactly correct, technically. But a Rose by any other name... There is a drain on the clutch cover. But the amount of oil it retains is so small that it isn't worth the effort to pull it. Everyone ignores this one. And most don't even know it exists. Not a problem.

Now I'm really confused. My 2015 RT SE6 manual refers to the oil sump cover drain plug and a clutch cover drain plug. Both plugs are to be removed during oil change. Last oil change I got about 4qts oil from oil sump plug and about 1qt from the clutch cover. How can we ignore the clutch cover plug during oil changes??
 
Now I'm really confused. My 2015 RT SE6 manual refers to the oil sump cover drain plug and a clutch cover drain plug. Both plugs are to be removed during oil change. Last oil change I got about 4qts oil from oil sump plug and about 1qt from the clutch cover. How can we ignore the clutch cover plug during oil changes??

If you got 1 quart from the 'Clutch Cover' drain plug. Then it was the oil sump plug that you pulled. You might get 2 ounces from the clutch mechanism plug. I'm not sure the 1330 has the clutch drain that the 998 had.
 
:lecturef_smilie:...Well, I go with warm oil to get the full effect of the oil change. Why? Warm oil will drain a little quicker than the cold. The dirty particulars will be 'suspended' in the oil much longer and drain out with the oil. Do to the BRP system you can get more of the old dirty oil drained.

This is how and why I choose to change my Spyder oil.
You can do whatever you wish.

Have yourself a Blessed Day. .....:thumbup:

This.

IMHO, draining it warm is more beneficial because to the reasons listed above.

I usually take my vehicles out for a quick 12 mile/10 minute jaunt prior to changing the oil. It's warm, but not scalding.
 
So being February in NY and unable to ride, I’m working on the bike today. Kurayken grips, plugs and wires, canisterectomy, vacuum lines, etc. For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months? I’m holding off on doing the oil
/filter change until it’s nice enough that I can get this girl out for a ride.
 
So being February in NY and unable to ride, I’m working on the bike today. Kurayken grips, plugs and wires, canisterectomy, vacuum lines, etc. For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months? I’m holding off on doing the oil
/filter change until it’s nice enough that I can get this girl out for a ride.

You have made the first step in understanding why there is such a convoluted procedure for checking the oil level. :ohyea:
 
For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months?
Yes! Go back to post #11, https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-Temperature&p=1658351&viewfull=1#post1658351, and read the first full paragraph. I explain why that is normal.

Oops! I just noticed you have a 2010 which is the 990 V-twin. But much the same thing happens with it as with the 1330. The oil drains from the tank to the crankcase when it sits idle.
 
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So being February in NY and unable to ride, I’m working on the bike today. Kurayken grips, plugs and wires, canisterectomy, vacuum lines, etc. For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months? I’m holding off on doing the oil
/filter change until it’s nice enough that I can get this girl out for a ride.

YEP, that is WHY owners and EVEN dealerships with incompetent service tech's (yes these places sometimes, been reported here) overfill the oil. Then it leaks out thru the filler cap when started up and riding. This is an oddball engine, but proves to read the manual and just get on this forum to get the low down!!
 
Since this is about oil changes. I just changed my oil in my 2022 RTL. I wouldn’t recommend u change the oil drain plug on the clutch side to the yellow zinc drain plug, hex head. Reason being is u can’t use a socket on it, because of the brake linkage in the way. U can’t tighten it or even torque it with a torque wrench. There was a reason y BRP put an Allen head plug there. Now on the other side with the torx head, that one will work. Just for your FYI. I probably should have started a new thread. O well.
 
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