Oil change cuestion, could not find in search

[Mexican]

Is Mobil one synthetic 10-40 good choice for 2011 se5? All my bikes use it and might as well start using it on the Spyder if doable

 

[Peter Aawen]

There's a couple of threads on Mobil 1 that suggest it is OK - even one that includes some oil analysis results...

 

[MikeinGA]

Is Mobil one synthetic 10-40 good choice for 2011 se5? All my bikes use it and might as well start using it on the Spyder if doable

There were problems with clutch slippage when using it in Spiders with the SE5 transmission. I say it's not doable. That's IMHO.

Mike

 

[PMK]

It is not an approved spec for the earlier 5 speeds.

PK

 

[Highwayman2013]

I would use the BRP oil kit just to be on the safe side.

 

[Mexican]

There's a couple of threads on Mobil 1 that suggest it is OK - even one that includes some oil analysis results...

Would you kindly guide me to those links

 

[Mexican]

I would use the BRP oil kit just to be on the safe side.

I think that is what i will do, just in case

 

[PMK]

I think that is what i will do, just in case

There is no just in case, the API rating is too good for the early Spyder and others have found out from experience the clutch slips. Even more important is not to use automotive oil, besides have too good of a rating, it is energy conserving which often contains moly which will bond to hot parts making them more slippery. So if the clutch starts to create heat from slipping, the moly will bond to the clutch plates and the rest will be money and history...

PK

 

[AMTJIM]

Are you talking SE clutch type slipping? I have had zero problems with m/c Mobil1 Synth on the Spyders or any motorcycle. I don't like the the BRP blends though, I always noticed it started seeping out the seals and gaskets shortly after servicing.

 

[jcasey]

:bdh:opcorn:

 

[AMTJIM]

quit hogging that bat...I got a few things to say about octane and tire pressure

 

[Sarge707]

I used M1 in my 09GS and had a Problem- Castrol Syn RS4T 10w40 is Much Better and rated Jaso MA2- Which is what you want.

 

[DrewNJ]

Energy Conservation oil is the key. Lower weight oils are pretty consistently energy conserving oils unless specifically spec'd for wet clutch/motorcycles.

I'll throw more fuel on the fire.....I run mobile1 15/50 synthetic car oil (red cap) in my spyder and other bikes. Have for quite some time. Probably close to 10k miles now just in the spyder.
I chose this oil because because the weight is spec'd by Aprilia for the same motor that is run harder than I run my spyder, i like the weight better, the Aprilia peeps dig it so it's got a history of working, it's NOT an energy conservation oil, and it's really inexpensive.
It works for me. Anyone want to buy some Amsoil 10/40 that I'm likely not going to use??[emoji38] [emoji57]

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Bob Denman]

Would you kindly guide me to those links

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?84032-Went-to-Mobile-1

 

[PMK]

Energy Conservation oil is the key. Lower weight oils are pretty consistently energy conserving oils unless specifically spec'd for wet clutch/motorcycles.

I'll throw more fuel on the fire.....I run mobile1 15/50 synthetic car oil (red cap) in my spyder and other bikes. Have for quite some time. Probably close to 10k miles now just in the spyder.
I chose this oil because because the weight is spec'd by Aprilia for the same motor that is run harder than I run my spyder, i like the weight better, the Aprilia peeps dig it so it's got a history of working, it's NOT an energy conservation oil, and it's really inexpensive.
It works for me. Anyone want to buy some Amsoil 10/40 that I'm likely not going to use??[emoji38] [emoji57]

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Mobil 1 15/50 red cap is great stuff, provided Mobil has not and never changes the formula to energy conserving.

That was the oil of choice and still is for many motocross 450's. I ran it in my modified 2001 YZ426f with no problems and no clutch slippage except by me feathering the life out of it on starts and corners.

If the Aprillia specs that, it would be high on my list of oils to run.

This may be a good 1330 oil for warm weather...

PK

 

[JayBros]

Read your operator's guide, two sections, #1 in the oil change section and #2 in the specifications at the end of the manual. Both specify the API service classifications for fully synthetic oils that can be used. Mobil 1 4T Racing 10W-40 meets the API specifications for all listed 2011 Spyders. I note that the instructions for 2008 and 2009 Spyders say to use BRP full synthetic 5W-40 or an equivalent motorcycle oil. For 2010 and later models BRP XPS semi-synthetic blend or full synthetic oil is recommended. Manuals for years 2008-2015 V-twin engines also specifically caution not to use oils meeting API service classification SM or ILSAC GF-4 as clutch slippage will occur. This warning does not appear in 2014 & 2015 operator's guides for the 1330 ACE engines but is replaced by a warning not to add any oil additives to the recommended oil as it may lead to gearbox and clutch malfunctions. If still in doubt call several dealers and be prepared for the BRP XPS blend sales pitch.

 

[AMTJIM]

I'm just gonna dig up a bunch of synthetic dinosaurs and make my own.