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Oil change by suctioning
- Thread starter Spyderup
- Start date
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Sucking the oil out of the tank does not suck out ALL the oil out of the engine. The drain plugs are where they are because those are the lowest points in the engine and where oil settles. No suction tube can get to those places.
Your saying that you are draining the sump of the engine as well as the oil tank? If that is so, sucking out the oil won't do a complete job but my guess would be that it is sufficient.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
For both engines the bottom of the oil tank is above the bottom of the engine. On the 1330 draining the oil from the bottom of the engine will completely drain the tank. On the 998 the oil outlet from the tank is a little bit above the bottom of the tank so draining the engine from the bottom will leave a small amount of oil in the tank. Obviously not enough gets left to be a problem or Rotax wouldn't have designed the engine the way they did.
What you're suggesting would lead to a lot of oil spillage, especially with the 1330. I'm going to guess as much as a quart or more would be left in the 1330 if you only suck out the tank. Oil draining from the tank to the sump is why you need to check oil level very soon after shutting off the engine.
Woodaddict
Active member
you might want to educate yourself with the spyder dry oil sump engine. on the drain plug is 2 o-rings, 1 is the very bottom, other is a passage above. nothing will be able to go into all the possible holding areas
JayBros
Well-known member
For the heck of it when I changed my oil back in January, based on a previous thread where the same question was asked and one responder said that sucking the oil out reduced the head pressure of the draining oil into a catch pan, I tried the suction method to see what it added to the job. I got out about three plus qts, then pulled both plugs to get the rest out out. Using the suction evacuator wasn't worth the extra effort. The only thing it did do was make it a little easier dumping my double wide drain pan (can drain through both plus simultaneously) into the disposal jug.
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canamjhb
Well-known member
Once upon a time, there was a service writer at a local Spyder dealer who recommended sucking the oil out of my 1330 in order to save time and money. It sounded OK to me at the time. So that's what they did. Afterward, and thinking about it, I contacted BRP to make sure this was an approved procedure and to make sure my warranty would not be in jeopardy. Well, I'm sure you can guess the response. NOT OK. I went back to the dealer and the manager did a FULL proper oil change at his expense. So, that's my story. Oh, one more thing. That service writer doesn't work there any more. The End..... Jim
ThreeWheels
Active member
I understand the desire to try and keep things clean by vacuuming out the oil.
I think this can be an effective way of removing the dirty oil in an engine that's designed for it, like most marine engines.
If you run the engine until it's warm the contaminants in the oil are suspended and will be removed with the oil.
Nevertheless, the 1330 ACE has TWO drain plugs for a reason. Some parts of the engine are difficult to access.
While there probably isn't a lot of residual oil if you use a pump, there's still the legal issue of the BRP warranty.
I'd recommend either knowingly voiding the warranty, or waiting until after the warranty expires.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong. If I am, I'm sure somebody on this site will be happy to let me know.
I think this can be an effective way of removing the dirty oil in an engine that's designed for it, like most marine engines.
If you run the engine until it's warm the contaminants in the oil are suspended and will be removed with the oil.
Nevertheless, the 1330 ACE has TWO drain plugs for a reason. Some parts of the engine are difficult to access.
While there probably isn't a lot of residual oil if you use a pump, there's still the legal issue of the BRP warranty.
I'd recommend either knowingly voiding the warranty, or waiting until after the warranty expires.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong. If I am, I'm sure somebody on this site will be happy to let me know.
AeroPilot
Member
I have tried it and can only suck out 3 of the 5 quarts fill on the 1330 engine through the filler tube hole. As others have mentioned, it reduces the oil drain through the two sides (clutch and engine side) and can extract a little from the filter canister, but you still need to pull the plugs for a full change. So in short, a 60% oil replacement at most.
Gwolf
Well-known member
Never had any problems draining it in a pan. I have a large drain pan that will catch it from both plugs at the same time. Just run the front tires up on the ramps, jack the rear up to get it level, slide the drain pan under there and pull the plugs. If you wear a rubber glove to back the last few threads out, it will not burn your hand and there won't be any spilled on the floor. Total time to jack it up and pull the plugs might be 3 or 4 minutes. I could not vacuum the oil out in that time.
bikerbillone
Well-known member
On the 2020 RTL I hear there's a brake rod, or something, blocking access to the oil drain plug which is a torx insert, or similar plug. Lamonster has the conversion hex head drain plug replacement. Where is the best to position the jack to raise the rear?
Gwolf
Well-known member
I got the Gold plugs with the hex heads on them. Been using deep well socket to turn the plugs. Just about the right amount of stand off and not as much wiggle as with an extension.
Don't know about the 2020 RTL. I put the rear jack on the very back end of the solid center beam on the 2019 F3 and it works fine. Put a piece of 2x4 on the jack to keep the jack top surface from contacting anything sticking down below the beam.
Don't know about the 2020 RTL. I put the rear jack on the very back end of the solid center beam on the 2019 F3 and it works fine. Put a piece of 2x4 on the jack to keep the jack top surface from contacting anything sticking down below the beam.
AeroPilot
Member
Well I just did my 8th full oil change on the 15 RT with 5 qts fresh oil and Hyflo filter 556 from BajaRon. It Went well with a minimum of drips and splash using ramps on my slanted drive. I did siphon about a quart out with the extractor, and cleaned the filter canister.
The magnets had only a little powdery swarf on them. I think this engine is about broken in now and ready with some fresh oil for when the "Safer at Home" stage is lifted, and we're able to travel again.
:2thumbs:
The magnets had only a little powdery swarf on them. I think this engine is about broken in now and ready with some fresh oil for when the "Safer at Home" stage is lifted, and we're able to travel again.
:2thumbs:
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