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Oh, the joys of air ride

EdMat

Well-known member
Fun, fun, fun.
Noticed that the air bag pressure was getting lower and lower in the Fobo app then got the warning on the dash.

Compressor dead. Order in a Viair compressor.

Guess what, the air bag has a leak caused by a small rock. Order air bag.

Oh, and the air dump solenoid is leaking slowly out the exhaust hole.

Forget all this automatic stuff. Thought a bit about making it a manual system with the compressor. Not worth the trouble. Lets go direct and eliminate all this stuff.

While I had the whole rear of the bike off decided it was time to move the rear dash cam camera so it would be looking over the trailer, not at it. Go to position it for tilt and horizon and discover the dash cam had quit. Looks like from the file time stamps it went out two weeks prior and I didn’t even notice. Power supply is working so its in the front camera head (brain of the unit). Innovv K5. Out of warranty. Order new one.

Since it seems stuff comes in 3's there may be one more shoe to drop before I get it all back together. Fun, fun, fun. :pray:
 
If you still have it apart you might want to consider putting a fernco cap under the air bag before you install it. Also ditch the pushlok fittings and use DOT compression ftgs.
 
If you still have it apart you might want to consider putting a fernco cap under the air bag before you install it. Also ditch the pushlok fittings and use DOT compression ftgs.

Thanks for the reminder Bensonoid.

Too late for this time, but might add one next time i have it apart. Guess you would just cut a hole in the top of the cap, invert it and leave the screw clamp off? Wouldn't happen to remember what size fits best would you?
 
One thing I wanted to add to the first post but forgot. I want to dispel what I consider to be an old wives tale. Conservatively I estimate that I have jacked the rear of the bike up over 100 times, cleaning the tire or rim, sometimes adding air, changing the rear tire, other stuff, etc. I never unload the side bags or truck first. A few times the trailer has been hooked to it at the same time. Each time I have placed the jack under the rear shock. I checked the lower shock bolt with a flat surface in its 4 quarters. Straight as an arrow.
 
3 inch fernco, no need for the clamp, and you will need a 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer bolt to make up for the thickness of the fernco.
 
One thing I wanted to add to the first post but forgot. I want to dispel what I consider to be an old wives tale. Conservatively I estimate that I have jacked the rear of the bike up over 100 times, cleaning the tire or rim, sometimes adding air, changing the rear tire, other stuff, etc. I never unload the side bags or truck first. A few times the trailer has been hooked to it at the same time. Each time I have placed the jack under the rear shock. I checked the lower shock bolt with a flat surface in its 4 quarters. Straight as an arrow.

Well IMHO you got lucky ..... I usually jack from under the Rear shock .... HOWEVER, I use the TABS that hold the bolt ... NOT the bottom of the shock itself ..... M ike :thumbup:
 
If you still have it apart you might want to consider putting a fernco cap under the air bag before you install it. Also ditch the pushlok fittings and use DOT compression ftgs.
Great substitute for the Air Ryde Rock Armor kit that used to be sold to prevent airbag cuts. Had one on my '13 RTL and had switched it to manual years ago, best fix ever. Never leaked again.
 
To all of those that have converted over to a manual type system, how do you prevent the C210A code from popping up all the time? I removed the relay from the fuse box but that did not do it. I know I have seen the answer on here but not showing up in a search. Thanks

And a second question, can the air ride system be turned off using BUDDs?
 
Pete, yep, it looks exactly like the old Roadster Renovations Air Ryde rock armor under bag protector I put on my '13 RTL. Kind of a heavy duty flexible cup that the Airbag sits in, on top of the swing arm, did need a longer bolt.
 
To all of those that have converted over to a manual type system, how do you prevent the C210A code from popping up all the time? I removed the relay from the fuse box but that did not do it. I know I have seen the answer on here but not showing up in a search. Thanks

And a second question, can the air ride system be turned off using BUDDs?

Update:
If you change over to a manual system do not remove the ride height sensor or the air dump solenoid. If you do you will be plagued with the C210A code. Pulling the relay will not make it go away. Still trying to find out if the system can be turned off with BUDS.
 
I'm glad my base RT doesn't have one of these nightmare systems. I'd still like to get rid of the bag and put in a proper spring. One less thing to fail...
 
I'm glad my base RT doesn't have one of these nightmare systems. I'd still like to get rid of the bag and put in a proper spring. One less thing to fail...

When working correctly, its great. If too much fails at one time, for me anyway, the expense to repair was just too great for the benefit. I think between the leak in the air bag and the leak in the dump solenoid it just wore the compressor out. My compressor operated so quietly that it could not be heard over the exhaust so I never knew it was being overworked.
 
When I eliminated my ACS I unhooked and removed the compressor, ride height control, and the dump valve. I taped up the connectors and started it up thinking I would get a code but never did, it's been a year now. A month ago I was lucky enough to be riding with someone who had BUDDS and they turned off my DESS. While it was hooked up it showed a problem with ACS but I have never had anything show up on my display. Maybe there's a difference between the '15 and '19.
 
It was a while ago when I did my gut job and I would have to open my side cover to back track my steps, but I believe I took my dump valve out and that was it, I may have unhooked the pump wires also, but my bike never shot a code and has been work fine!! I would put the relay back in and see if that helps! I left the arm hooked up!
 
If I'm not mistaken didn't they change the dash in 2018? If so, then that explains it, newer dash = more info and sometimes problems.
 
I have never had a code show up on my 2011. I removed the compressor and acs switch and the air solenoid. Much more reliable now.
 
As quick as I reinstalled everything, except the compressor, the code went away.

I was wrong. After an extended ride the Suspension Malfunction flashed on the screen again and the code came back. Going to have to think long and deep on this one.
 
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